City slicker artesian well question.
 

Is this decent output for an artesian well and whatever else some of this means. I never had a well before. :confused:

Depth 540', 37' of casing, 3.5 GPM, 20' static level pump installed at 300', 1HP rated at 10 GPM. :eek:

I am researching and learning what all this means but I know most of you folks have wells and might clarify some of this. :rolleye2:

I also have a call in to the well digger that did the well but don't know if he is still in business. :cool:

If I am correct per my well person, everything you list is good at least for an average 4 to 6 person homestead. Of coarse you know what the depth of 540' means. The 37' of casing is the amount of pipe they used to get into GOOD ledge to make a good seal to stop ground water from getting into the well. 3.5 GPM is the amount of recovery that the well produces. Your 20' of static level is good also. It is the amount of water that is in your well and it means that it is filled up to 20' from the ground level making your well have a stand pipe of usable water of 520'. You can calculate the number of gallons easy enough knowing the pipe diameter. That means you can pump down 280' before the pump would be out of water. There is a lot of water at all times in your well and do not forget it is always being feed with 3.5 GPM to that static level figure. The HP of the pump is good also..
My well is 723' deep and the GPM is 3.5 and the pump is set at 500' and is a 1-3/4 or 2 HP, I'm not sure right now and like I said the static level is 6' from the top of the ground which I was told is not that common to come that high.:)

Thank you RLW...some very good info there.

It is only going to be the wife and I so the volume of water with a 3.5 GPM refresh rate should be more that adequate.

When we looked at the house and turned a shower on the pressure and volume coming out was much less that what we are used to. I'm guessing that might have something to do with a pressure tank setting though?

Most defiantly on both subjects. There could possibly be something else for the low pressure, but the setting of the regulator is the most common and the very first place to check. You will notice a difference in pressure between a full tank and a tank that is about to fill up.:)

http://i54.tinypic.com/2e56yqf.gif

One other thing to check on the shower pressure is that they put restricters in them to limit water usage. Take the head off and do what you are inclined to with it.

DO What You are Inclined, Then...
 

:) Add one—or two—of these:

http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/...hower-head.jpg

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images...showerhead.jpg

Many years ago we dug an artesian well and the guy said we were getting more than 20 gals per minute which was unbelieveable. AT the time he was digging at Moultonboro school and was having a hard time getting 2 gpm, but I THINK (but don't take this to the bank) that he said if they could get around 3 that would be enough for the school. So I think you are alright for your house. I still would ask a well guy, as we sometimes don't give correct information on here. I try not to do that and if I can't remember for sure, will say that as I just did.

Water quality test
 

Toad, did your home inspector perform a water test on the characteristics of your well (iron, manganese, pH, hardness, arsenic, radon, etc.)?

Haven't lined up an inspector yet. Got the information from the seller through the realtor. If we make, and the offer goes through, I'm thinking about lining up individual contractors (HVAC, well, builder etc) to do the inspections. It was suggested in another thread.

You can install a cycle stop valve. It will maintain steady pressure, save wear and tear on the pump, and save electricity. You can also get by with a tiny tank when you use a CSV too. If you ever need to replace the tank, spend the money you save (by getting a smaller tank) on the CSV.

I think it is safe to generalize that the "average well" does not supply the same line pressure as the "average municipal" water supply. Some of us have to add a booster pump in the cellar to run the pressure tank to a higher set point. The flow rate of the pump is a function of the horse power, the feet of lift from the water level in the well and the pressure the pump is working against in the house as well as the friction loss in the piping system.

The booster pump takes much of the extra load off of the well pump allowing it to provide the volume of water to the booster pump which pushes it along to achieve the higher pressure and flow rates we need.

The merits and shortcomings of the CSV have been debated hotly on some other forums. Some of the discussions turn up in a Google on the subject. The CSV may not be all its inventor claims it to be.

Usually with well water you need some type of filter equipment (softener, acid reducer, arsenic remover, etc.). They will all reduce the water flow you get at the tap, regardless of your flow or pressure at the tank.

Ya....there is a water softener and some kind of filter in the house too. Something I'll have to learn about also. Hope this old dog can learn new tricks. ;)

I have not read any bad things about them. The one's I've dealt with work great. Nice, steady pressure. I suspect a lot of people have trouble coming to grips with the fact that the pressure of the water has little effect on the pump load, on a centrifigul pump. Unlike a positive displacement pump, it's all about the volume.

Whoops
 

Whoops, I forgot that as I do not have any of it except for a standard pair of filters for sediment and a charcoal filter for any possible taste problem which we do not have. I have the system checked every other year and it comes back as listed as almost as good as bottled water. Is that good??????:)