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Saw Blade Sharpening
Is there someone in the Moultonborough area that sharpens saw blades? Table saw, skill saw, chain saw etc.
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If you have plain steel blades my suggestion is to get carbide tip blades for the table and skill saws. Then you can pretty much forget about sharpening.
As for a chain saw, sharpening is fairly easy. You should learn to do that yourself as it should really be done after each use. Or even in the middle of a use should you happen to touch that hidden rock. |
I have always taken my chain saw chains and brush cutter & table/skill saw blades to Mark Richter Repair on Rt 25. He does a great job and cost has always been very reasonable.
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I do have carbide tip blades and yes, after a while, they do need sharpening. I could tell because I almost set the smoke alarm off today cutting a piece of pine. I also sharpen my chainsaw blades but sometimes I like to have someone do a professional job. |
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I brought 4 of my 10 inch carbide table saw blades to a shop in Nashua to get sharpened. They quoted me $1 a tooth. As you might imagine, it is cheaper to buy a new blade than to sharpen at that price.
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There's a guy that works out of his home on rte 104 coming off of exit 23 heading towards Meredith. "Bobs sharp all" if memory serves me right.
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On line service pricing
Here's a link to the first thing I came up with when I Googled sharpening.
http://dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/pricelist.html Glad I don't know squat about carpentry!:laugh: |
Thanks for the reasonable prices. Next time I have a dull one I will take a fresh look.
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I use Bob's on RT 104. He is reasonable, does a great job, on time, and is a great guy to deal with.
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Anyway...right on 104, left hand side heading toward McDs (away from rt. 93). Right after you pass Wicwas. |
One thing you can do to prolong the life of your blades to to use the proper blade for each type of cut you are performing. Sometimes this does not makes sense (read as two or three small cuts), but using a combo blade to rip any volume of wood will eat it up pretty quick, no matter what the species is.
Having multiples of each style helps when sharpening is needed, as you always have a fresh knife on the peg. I am sure not everyone is this bad but in my personal shop, I have between 20 and 30 blades hanging around, most 10's and a few 12's. If you happen to have any real quality blades, send them back to the manufacturer for sharpening, most due this as a service to their customers (still costs money). My Forest blades only get sharpened by the manufacturer, they understand the tolerances and at $200 a piece, its not worth the risk. Sharpening horror story for those that care. A friend of mine sent in his crown saw to "the local sharpening guy" and asked him multiple times if he knew how to sharpen it. The response was an "of course I do" with a touch of attitude. When the saw was picked up, it was nice and sharp and all the teeth were so straight they all would touch a levels edge. The problem is that a crown saws teeth swale from front to back creating an arched cutting edge. The sharpener thought he was correcting a flawed saw, but in reality ruined a saw that has not been produced in over 40 years. Its been sent out all over the country to get tuned back up and it always comes back with a note attached, that it can't be corrected. So, always make sure that anything special receives the attention it deserves. |
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