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Excessively Running Dock Circulators
There's been a lot of discussions about the need for people to control their dock circulators to not run excessively, opening up large areas of water in front of neighbors property. But I haven't seen anything about what to do when a neighbor refuses to control his circulator, which for three straight years has opened up water in front of our house and caused damage to our dock by creating open water for ice chunks to bang freely against our dock. This is a MA person that rarely comes to the lake during the winter and is too cheap to pay someone to manage/adjust his circulator. Any ideas on how to get someone to enforce control of a circulator?
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Des
DES runs the permitting for these machines. Write to them--they should have contact info on the permit application. If you write now based on past years' experience, they can give you guidance for 2020-21 so the water isn't open and has a chance to freeze or re-freeze.
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NH RSA270:33 Heating, Agitating, or Other Devices in Public Waters; Safety Hazard. No person shall put, place, operate, or cause to be put, placed, or operated in the waters of this state any so-called heating, agitating, or other device which inhibits or prevents the natural freezing of water, or forming of ice, and thereby impedes either the ingress or egress to or from the ice from any property other than that of the owner of the device.He is breaking at least this RSA |
RSA-Breaker...
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You could save your neighbor some cash by suggesting he gets one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I saved about $150 in electricity last season using this. Opens up less water too, so was easier for me to get out onto the ice when I wanted. |
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I would think that having circulator ON time controlled solely by air temperature would at times lead to too much use. Once a circulator has opened up a small area around the dock, there is no point in having it stay running, even if the air is cold. Sure, a thin skim layer of ice will form after a while during an OFF interval (with a programmable timer), but it has no particular strength, and the next ON interval melts it out easily. But the key to minimizing circulator power use and extent of ice-free area is regular adjustment of programmed ON intervals. That requires regular attention over the winter.
I would suggest to the OP that he approach the offending owner and get his OK to make those regular adjustments. Over recent years, I have done this for an abutter. I can see much of what I need to see from my window, and I'm outside often enough to see all of it. During cold snaps I add short ON intervals and lengthen them as needed, then trim ON time when the weather moderates. Everyone using a circulator needs to understand that when the wind moves the ice sheet, no amount of circulator action will stop it. |
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Another Option
We have/pay for wifi year round so what we do is have a wifi camera pointed at the dock so we can view it remotely. With that we have one of these that can be controlled remotely at any time via an app on my phone. As well as it has timers that you can set remotely that can run on/off even multiple times a day if need be. Completely controllable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It can run up to 15A/1800W and is waterproof if it needs to be outside. The app is free, easy to use and we have it with other devices like lights and outlets as they sell other type nodes. Works great for us as I agree, during the winter a one size fits all for the timer is usually not optimal in either power use or results... Again if you have Wifi year round. |
A tarp with noodles and a chain
After years of frustration about my neighbor's bubbler, I started using a tarp curtain to contain the warm water to their property. The top of the tarp is wrapped around swim noodles, using tie-wraps to hold them in place. Along the bottom, a chain is wrapped with the tarp and again, tie-wraps are used to keep it there. Some years, I deploy the tarp before the ice sets in, but other years, I've use a chain saw to cut a slot in the ice. That helps install with precision. It works best if the tarp is curved, to direct the moving water back towards their dock. It gives me a week or more longer access to the lake on both sides of the season.
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Oops.
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Section 270:33 270:33 Heating, Agitating, or Other Devices in Public Waters; Safety Hazard. – No person shall put, place, operate, or cause to be put, placed, or operated in the waters of this state any so-called heating, agitating, or other device which inhibits or prevents the natural freezing of water, or forming of ice, and thereby impedes either the ingress or egress to or from the ice from any property other than that of the owner of the device. The person or persons responsible for the placement of the device shall ensure that warning signs are posted to warn of its location. Said signs shall read DANGER, THIN ICE and shall be of sufficient size to be readable at a distance of not less than 150 feet, and shall be visible from all directions and shall be equipped with reflectors and color-coded in a pattern unique for this purpose only. The department of safety is hereby authorized to establish said unique design and coloring and any homemade copies shall follow this design and coloring. The provisions of this section shall be enforced by any law enforcement agency under the direction of the department of safety pursuant to RSA 106-A:14 and the department of fish and game pursuant to RSA 206:26. |
Correct. This however does not address permitting.
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If you read the RSA carefully you will see it only applies if the neighbor is unable to access the ice.
Causing open water in one part of your property is not a violation if you can access the ice from another part. |
...... perfect landing every time!
With just 60' of waterfront and living next to my neighbor's ice eater device that is only about 15' from our property line as it extends out; here's my NEW HAMPSHIRE good neighbor solution ....... ayuh! ........ I use a pole vault and wear ice skates so's I can get a good running start, place the 20' pole into the open water within the shoreline ice and into the sandy lake bottom, then pole vault across like a sling-shot, and move forward onto the outer lake ice using the ice skates ........ no problem! ...... just like Bobby Orr! .....:D
There's no such thing as bad lake ice, There's only bad lake ice equipment ................................. :banana: |
What kind of access?
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Please consider that the issue here is not whether or not there is open water but rather whether the device impedes the "natural freezing of water, or forming of ice." This includes creating areas of thin ice around the open water that may extend quite a distance in a particular direction depending on the angle at which the device is installed and the way the current it creates deflects off structures and objects in the water around it. Legal requirements aside, if you need to use an aquatherm, please be thoughtful about the way it is operated so it does not pose unnecessary risks to those out working or playing on the lakes in the winter months. |
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very clever! I have timer AND thermostats on my ice eaters. And I direct the flow so my dock cribs have water flowing across them, but the direction of flow is on shore. Keeps from creating massive open water in front of my dock. |
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The very last line in the famous Robert Frost poem titled "Mending Wall' -1914, goes "Good fences make good neighbors."
So, extending a fence out across the shoreline and onto the lake open water could quiet this situation. Some very smart fence maker needs to create a "one-way fence" so's a waterfront homey can clearly see outward, straight through this fence, while it blocks the incoming view of that neighbor. ....so we can see out the big view, and they cannot see in ... :emb::laugh:! |
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...... 3 small 1/6-hp pumps vs one large 1/2 or 3/4-hp motor propeller?
Typically here on Lake Winnipesaukee, a permanent dock gets ice protected by a single 1/2 or 3/4-hp motorized propeller that agitates the water, making small to medium ripples or waves, enough to keep the water around the dock from freezing up.
There is another way to get it done. Instead of using a single 1/2 or 3/4-hp motorized propeller, a series of 2-3-4 smaller 1/6-hp or 1/4-hp utility pumps with impellers can be hung from below the dock close to each set of vertical support legs. This changes the dynamics of the water agitation, keeps it centered under the dock, and keeps it from encroaching on the neighbor's lake ice. Is best to get the heavy 1/6-hp pump sold at Lowe's because it has a heavy cast iron design, sucks up the water from down below, shoots it straight up, and has a handle on top for easy line attachment. Price; about $80-1/6-hp utility pump at Lowe's. The relative heavy weight of the cast iron helps a lot because it keeps the pump in one spot without moving around, as it is suspended by a line from under the dock. And, this 1/6-hp pump can run for months and months, cycling on and off depending on the air temperature/time setting. |
Bubblers already running
Took a lap around the Island yesterday - Glorious Day I have to say - I saw at least half a dozen bubblers already running which tells me they're not on t-stats . That's gotta be expensive on the electric bill, you would think it'd be cheaper to contract someone to turn them on in early December and off early April.
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Don't worry too much about the 'good neighbors' nonsense. Open water can be a hazard to the general public, lives as well as property.
LE does not need a 'complainant' to file charges when there is something they can see for themselves from a public place. As the entire lake is public domain, all that is necessary is for someone to bring to their attention, what they have not yet seen themselves. |
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