Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakegeezer
The hardware stores around here could clean up on selling low or no phosphorus lawn greener. However, when I have gone asking for some, they don't seem to get the question. Education is the key factor - we need to have people aware that there are alternatives and know where to get them. Most people will do the right thing if it is almost as easy.
Until I read Lawn Psycho's post, I didn't know about soybean fertilizer. Where can I get some? This week, I attended a presentation from UNH and DES on shoreline care. They indicated that zero phosphorus is best, but 2% is considered "low" - so the *second* number in the a-b-c fertilizer rating should be no more than 2.
A technology that would really help the lake is an inexpensive phosphorus water test. Then, we'd be able to test suspected areas of infiltration and build a map of where it is coming from.
My belief is that runoff is our most serious source of phosphorus. The shoreline protection act is meant to help, but each property owner on or near the lake should be thinking about how to slow down water from its journey into the lake.
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LIforrelaxin,
Fecal microbes can travel laterally through soil over 5-10 years at distances of 100 feet or more. The leach field principle is one of dilution. That dilution is with filtering of rain water that percolates into the soil and the leachate water
combines with the groundwater. If you have rocky soil, slopes, high water table, it means more leaching of setic water into the groundwater at a higher rate.
The effluent from you septic tank has nitrogen which is not broken down in the retention tank. Also, day in and day out that our tanks are not 100% efficient as flows change from day to day.
You may not want to admit it, but any of you who live on the water are contributing to the problem with every flush, shower, run of the dishwasher. I'd like to know if data has been compiled over many years to perform a regression of house lots versus water quality indicators. Not only septic fields, but simply adding impervious surfaces and removal of trees adds to the problem. Even the type of driveway sealer you use can impact water quality.
Lake Geezer,
The soybean meal is not something you will find on big box shelves. Usually comes in 50 lb bags and you can get it at feedstores and some Agways. You can also use corn gluten meal for weed defense but I have found keeping the grass slightly taller and hand pulling the one or two weeds that come in is easier. In other words, don't let the weeds get started.
When first establishing a brand new lawn, I go with synthetic fertilizers such a Scott's to get the intitial feedings and once my soil tests show I'm where I need to be, I swtich to soybean meal.
It's slower acting and you won't get a 3 day pop in green, it's gradual and over time you lawn will look great. Takes about 3 weeks to notice as the proteins in the soybean breaks down. I feed in mid-April and then the Federal Holidays. Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, and a final feeding around the first week of October.
If you use kentucky bluegrass seed, just be PATIENT. It takes 3 years from start to trophy if properly fed and cut at the right height.
You can buy "organic" (as in protein based) fertilizers for your lawn such as Cockadoodle Doo or the Espoma brands. The latter two you will find at places like nurseries or Agways.
Also, shoot for a soil pH of 7.5 Don't use the junk field test kits from HD or Lowe's, send it to a soil testing service. I use the Maine soil testing service. I'm sure UNH has something similar but haven't checked.