Quote:
Originally Posted by pats fan
Hi Secondcurve,
I have a rental property in Belmont. Need the kitchen, bath and front entry tiled. All total it is only about 120 sq feet at most. I think that is a high estimate. May need a little floor leveler in a few places but is not really a big job. I'm actually tempted to learn a little about it and give it a try! Maybe next time. I am happy to show you the job if you think you are the best, cheapest guy for the job!  |
Pats Fan, go for it. Tiling is not an overly difficult task. A few things that will make your life easier and result in a better looking job in the end, especially if you are going to rent a tile saw.
Remove the baseboard trim in the area that you are tiling. If the trim is painted, start with using a utility knife and slowly cut along the top joint of the trim where it intersects the wall board, then repeat on any trim to trim joints. Then using a trim bar
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17314 (super versitile tool to have around), slowly pry the trim off the wall. Pay attention to how the pieces are laid out, so you don't remove a piece that is overlapped by another at a corner. Mark all the pieces as you take them off and remove the nails from the backside using a pair of pliers or dykes. Set all the trim aside in an area that will not be in the way of working and will keep them from getting knocked around.
Remove whatever flooring you have down currently and make sure it is free of nails and other nasties.
Tile should be installed over a cement backer board or solid base material. Do not install over wood sub-floor, it will crack. Products to choose from for underlayment (depending on the amount of thickness you have to work with) are:
Ditra
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx Highly recommend, fast and thin. Gets cemented to the sub-floor with thinset. Can be difficult to work with alone. Just lay it out and make all your cuts ahead of time and it will go smooth. Somewhat expensive.
Hardie Board
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...rterInch.shtml Two different thickness to choose from, needs to be cemented to the sub-floor with thinset and then screwed and all seams need to be taped with mesh tape and thinset. Easier to do alone, but is more time consuming and lots of waste. Cheaper cost.
OK, so you have the sub-surface laid and ready for tile. Stop, before you start mixing thinset make sure your layout is balanced in the space by making measurements and snapping some lines (chalk line) for reference. To make your life easier and to maximize your tile saw rental, you will want to actually cut and layout your entire floor (with spacers) as if you were setting the tile for good, but without the thinset. This way you can deal with any really difficult cuts or layout problems before you have a bucket of thinset mixed up and drying while you try to figure out what to do.
Once that is done, mix your thinset according to the directions on the bag and start laying your tile using your reference lines. Work in small grids 3'x3' or the best size based on your tile size. Just remember you have to be able to reach the far corner of the section to set tile and you do not want to have to work over freshly set tile, they will slide around all over the place.
When that is done, the next day you can grout and the directions on the bag are very clear on how to do this and follow them to a "T".
Then install your removed baseboard trim and paint.
Take your time and it will come out fine.
And if you are not interested in taking it on after ready this post then the installers in my area range from $5.50 to $7.75 per square foot for floor tile (wall tile is usually double that), depending on the complexity of the layout and size and type of tile. Slate runs slightly higher for install and Travertine will use more grout material. These are very seasoned tile installers and that matters more than price. Nothing looks worse in all of construction than a poor tile installation or a bad paint job.