MR, I can't read the label but if the ingredients are Tupersan then yes, it is specifically meant for crabgrass prevention while seeding. HOWEVER, it has a low residual. After 3 mowings on the new lawn, put down the Stonewall (prodiamine). Some big box stores have crabgrass/weed preventers with prodiamine and others don't (also look for "Barricade") You can use the stuff that has Dimension but I have not found it too be as good and it has to be applied 2x year to really protect you.
My questions to you are:
1. Have you had your soil tested? Plenty of places do it and it's $15-20. Cheap money before throwing $ away on seed, fert, sweat, tears for a bad result.
2. How much shade? You need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight. There's some seed for shadier areas (chewings, fine fescues, etc) but much harder to grow grass in the shade. Don't confuse chewings, red fescues with tall fescue. Stay away from any seed that has Tall Fescue.
3. Do you think you have active crabgrass now? If you do, it ain't crabgrass and it needs to be identified. A lot of misidentification occurs where people assume it's crabgrass. It's too early for crabgrass to be thriving right now as soil temps just got high ehough for it to even germinate.
Follow my instructions above for killing off the existing weeds/grass and it goes a long way. If you get crabgrass in August (which you probabluy will even with preventer when doing a late Spring seeding), don't panic.
Whatever you do,
DO NOT CORE AERATE, DO NOT CORE AERATE, DO NOT CORE AERATE (get the hint
) All you do is bring weed seeds to the surface.
Just use a heavy roller after seeding and you're good to go. Trust me on this one......
Eventually I'll finish my fert/lime info. and post it.