[DRH]

BBS,

I think you will need a much heavier duty mooring setup than the one shown in your diagram. We are located near Minge Cove in the West Alton area, and we're exposed to the northwest wind/waves too. We keep a 22' fixed keel sailboat weighing about 2,600 pounds on our mooring. That mooring has failed three times during the past ten years. Each time it's been repaired, I have had it made beefier. Our present setup seems to work well, which I'll describe below.

First, I would recommend that you use a granite or concrete block for your mooring rather than a mushroom anchor such as the one pictured in your drawing. Also, Steveo has given you several pieces of good advice which we also utilize. I agree with him that it would be better to use chain between the swivel and the mooring ball as well as between the block and the swivel. I also agree with him that you should not attach the nylon line that goes between the ball and your boat to the ring at the top of the ball. It is far more secure to attach that line to the ring at the bottom of the ball that the chain is shackled to, or directly to the chain shackle itself. Be sure to secure all the shackle pins with either stainless steel wire or, as some divers recommend, nylon cable ties. In all three cases when our mooring system failed, the shackle pins had worked their way out of the shackles, even though they were initially secured. Just the constant motion of wakes and waves eventually worked the pins out. Shackles and their pins can also rust out, so we now use stainless shackles and pins.

An additional suggestion is that if your boat has two bow cleats, or one large cleat with two bow chocks, I'd suggest you run two nylon lines from the bottom of the mooring ball up to the boat instead of just one. That splits the load between the two lines, and also gives you some added insurance in the event one of the lines frays and breaks. Again, as Steveo suggests, make sure you use thimbles in the eyes of the nylon lines. Several marinas and dive shops around the lake can make up the nylon lines with thimbles and eyes for you, or if you have access to a boating book such as Chapman Piloting, you can learn to make them up yourself. With a little practice, it's really not hard.

My last suggestion is, after you install a mooring don't forget to maintain it. We have ours examined by a diver each spring to check for rusted chain links, loosened shackle pins, and general wear and tear.

You would be amazed at the tremendous stress that a good squall can put on a mooring system. For the relatively small additional cost, it's prudent to make your mooring system as strong as possible. It may seem like overkill at first, but in the long run you won't regret it.

Note: You'll need to apply for and be granted a mooring permit by the NH Division of Safety Services before you can install your mooring, unless your mooring will be covered by your Association's permit.