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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Lets say you were going to build an Island camp from scratch. Nothing fancy - A basic 900 sqft 2 bedroom 1.5 bath place.
What are things things you think must be included? What are the best luxuries to have out on the islands? What do you think is a waste of money? What are your favorite things? What do you hate? I'd love to hear any thoughts you have to share!! |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Granite counter tops
Glass tile backsplash Stainless steel appliances Double bowl sinks in the master bath Just kidding! HGTV would have you believe your place is a dump without those. I have no experience with island building but I did build a log home from a kit with my own hands. My advice is to be absolutely sure you can legally do whatever it is you want to do. Don't find out mid project that your dream camp is going to be dumbed down by regulation. I was fortunate to have cooperative local guidance and thus zero drama. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bear Island
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Washer and dryer
Second refrigerator A/C units in the bedrooms 3 season heating (not winter heating) Water purification unit Screened porch Big deck with narrow 3/4" balusters Really BIG picture windows in front An engineered septic system. They are cheaper, less impact, less truckloads of sand and less ugly than the standard system that contractors will talk you into. A fireplace would be nice, but I don't have one. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Laconia NH
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with solar panels on the roof, destriolet, refrigerator and combination kitchen stove and heater. Sliders on both walls for cross ventilation and a ceiling fan to circulate the air. A farmer's sink so that you can do it all.
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Someday may never be an actual day. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Welch Island and The Taylor Community
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Things to have, some quick thoughts:
Well insulated building with a reversible heat pump. Lots of windows and sliding doors. Wrap around deck: front with extension to the lee side. For domestic water from the lake: submersible pump, sediment and taste filters, and a UV purifier. Plumbing designed for easy draining in the fall. Breakwater with permanent dock if allowed. 2nd seasonal dock if allowed. A place for visitors to sleep – maybe a side room that can handle a sleep sofa |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mont Vernon NH & Big Barndoor Island
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I think it's nice to have a place for someone to get away in a small house. We have a loft that fits the bill perfectly. It's open to the rest of the house, but it's still a nice separate space and it has views to the lake.
The more decks and outside space the better. It's super if one of them gets sun during the day. We were really worried about having a screen porch, but at least in our case, bugs are a non issue on the windward side of the island (though I do secretly lust after my neighbor's screen porch with a fireplace in it). Lastly, I think a washer/dryer are really nice. It stinks to have to lug clothes back and forth on a boat. I think 900-1000 sq feet is very doable for a small family, but I sure wouldn't want to be here with 4-5 kids. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NH
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Farmers Porch
Huge Deck Post & Beam Interior Metal Roof Log Cabin Siding Wide Pine Plank Flooring Insulated Wood Stove Pex Plumbing Lots of windows |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: formerly Winter Harbor, still Wolfeboro
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Patience, and a sense of humor.
If you intend to have company, try for 2 full baths; and, if the logistics can be worked out, have at least one of these baths easily accessible from the back door (so you don't have to traipse all through the house to use it. If you are not building on a foundation, make sure to thoroughly insulate below the first floor. Also: extra outside electrical outlets outside security lighting maybe two sillcocks storage space, or, accessory shed |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Tuftonborough & Franklin MA
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Really good responses here. I 'll add my vote to having a washing machine (we have a dryer too but only for rainy days, we try to use the clothesline when we can), a UV / filter set up for drinking water, a second refrigerator or freezer, a shed for storage, a big deck (it's often the biggest flat spot on an island) and non-carpeted floors so cleaning up the pine and hemlock needles brought in with wet feet is easier. If you can squeeze in a screen porch, I'd recommend that too, it's my favorite spot at our place. Lots of glass facing the Lake too!
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" Any day with a boat ride in it is a good day" |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kuna ID
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Wire the place for a generator. Islands are the last place to get power restored and having even a small generator to power the essentials is a nice to have.
Put in a large pantry so you can stock the place for the season with non perishables. Can't have enough closet space either. Screen porch is nice, 3 season is even better especially if you have lots of sun as it will stay warm when there is a nip in the air. Some source of heat for early and late season heating. I would highly suggest getting a pellet stove just because wood can be hard to come by and propane works, but is far more expensive. Try to plan for as much covered storage as you can because you will find that you will need lots of spare stuff. For example I built a bunch of lumber racks under my camp so can keep a little bit of everything I might need for repairs. A shed is a must have too. Keep your plumbing simple and easy to drain at the end of the season. In fact putting in a fitting for an air compressor is something I plan to do this year so I can just blow out all the plumbing. Quick disconnects on your supply lines make putting in or taking out your water lines a snap. If you plan to pull water from the lake have a pump house built so your pump isn't out in the weather. Have good dock lighting installed, if you come in after dark it's nice to have. Metal roof and vinyl siding, make it as maintenance free as possible. I would avoid any insulation because it attracts rodents. Make sure you have as many trees as possible cleared around the building area. Taking them down after they are huge and to close to the building is not only a pain in the neck, but can be expensive. If you have to go with a seasonal dock, it's worth putting in a crank up. It's easy to deal with. To assemble a wood dock yourself is a whole lot of work, and if you pay somebody to do it every year it's expensive to have done. Keep it simple! |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mirror Lake - Full time resident
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It depends on whether you want something kind of rustic, or a "real" home away from home.
I didn't notice one very important thing (IMHO) - and that's a woodstove. The power is not 100% reliable, and the stove is VERY nice to have on a cold morning (or evening). I would also include some type of other heat - electric baseboard (particularly in the bathroom)... Storage space is always at a premium. Put the house up high enough so you can put stuff underneath. Also makes it a whole lot easier when you have to fix something under there! When you do the plumbing, MAKE SURE EVERY FEED PIPE is on an angle, all pointing "down" with no low spots or water traps anywhere. Put in 2 master drain valves (or more if you need them, but if all is well you won't), 1 on each feed (hot and cold water). The idea is to get all of the water out of the system quickly and RELIABLY when you close up. More than 1 bath is really nice if you have the space. Preferably on different floors or better still, one if them in an external building ![]() Don't forget closets!!!! Use good quality windows. It costs more up front, but good windows won't fail or get moisture laden between the panes of glass... Screened in porch? Depends on the Island and the direction. We don't have one and don't have bugs, but facing West is good in that way. Someone mentioned a crank up dock. This is a REALLY good idea! |
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#12 |
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This is great!!! Keep the good ideas coming. Got to love how much experience and expertise is on this forum!
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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Random thoughts: Build it out of stressed skin. Use PEX for supply plumbing and design it so that it drains easily and completely. Install standing seam metal roof. Don't install roof windows. Have large overhangs. Put the toilets as far as possible from the entertaining area. Ensure that the entrance is centered under a gable. Have absolutely no wood on the exterior. Use LED lights. Place windows and doors to optimize prevailing winds for ventilation. Install a chimney with at least one extra flue for future use. Install on demand water heater. Install wiring runs that allow for future expansion.
These ideas are not limited to island homes. |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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There are BOCA codes. Town codes. State codes. And some international codes. Energy codes.
Not sure if you can build just a camp anymore. Maybe someone can chime in who is up on all of this. |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Current code is IBC 2009, but understand that there are codes that are more current than that and you might want to understand the changes. There have been some very significant changes to decks in particular. The town in which you are building may have a tighter code than what the current IBC code dictates. Talk to your Zoning Administrator or Building Inspector when you have your list put together, not plans, not a contractor, a list and don't get attached to it! During this meeting you will fill this list in with additional notes and some things will be crossed off completely. Building a house inside the 250' buffer requires planning, knowing what you can and cannot do with your property early in the process will save you many stressful days down the road. It may help to have a septic design done on raw land as well, not fun to plan around 3 bedrooms when you can only have 2. This can be worked around by using an engineered septic system, BI suggested that earlier, but it chews into your budget. Also, if you are working with a contractor, you and your wife need to draw a 3 sliced pie on a white piece of paper. Label one slice, "Quality", one "Square Footage" and the last one "Price". You get to pick two, contractor will dictate the 3rd and no you cannot have all 3! |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bear Island
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On an island an engineered septic system is usually cheaper than the standard design. The engineered system will use much less sand, and truckloads of sand delivered to an island by barge is very expensive.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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That is a good point and one I had not thought of. It would depend on the style of the system, but there are options that fit.
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#18 |
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mont Vernon NH & Big Barndoor Island
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Stress Skin panels are generally used for post and beam construction. 1/2 sheetrock (or t&g pine in some cases), 3 1/2" of high density foam, 1/2" of OSB. You put up the frame and then nail these suckers over the frame. They're extremely efficient (and pretty much air tight).
I've had 2 houses with them now. The negatives are insects love to get inside them and it's almost impossible to get them out, and if you end up with rotted OSB because of a bad shingle or siding job, it's very difficult to repair. It makes for a pretty fast build... They go up very quick and you you are weather tight as soon as you get windows and roofing installed. Plus your inside is finished too except interior walls. Wiring has to be carefully done... Most electricians just shake their heads and come up with a very high quote. There are clever ways to do it that the p&b guys have come up with. |
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#20 |
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I have always said make sure you do the basics even if it means you can't finish things such as flooring and carpeting for a while. It costs a lot more to put in a chimney after a house is built than it does while it is being built. Make it the size your want or plan it so you can add on easily later. Make it as close to the size you want as you can or plan it so you can easily add on. Those kind of things.
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#21 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Stress skin panels are more commonly known as SIPS (structural insulated panels).
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#22 | |
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#23 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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outdoor shower
shed w/ electricity - we keep a small freezer out there screened in porch with fireplace & wired for a tv washer/dryer |
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#24 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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If one was careful and clever in the design process, one could dramatically simplify and reduce costs for construction. Examples: Choose roof dimensions that allow you to use full-width standing seam roof panels. Ripping the last panel and bending the edge of it 90 degrees is a pain, and if symmetry is important to you, you'd need to do it on both gable ends of the house. The length of said panels is irrelevant as they can be ordered any length you choose up to 40 feet, if memory serves... Design the house such that all or at least the vast majority of the plumbing is located in one interior wall. Design the wall with opening panels so that plumbing repairs or changes can be done with ease. Choose house/room dimensions that take advantage of standard lumber lengths. Why make a house that forces you to waste 18" of every joist? That said, engineered joists would be a great choice (nice and light so easy to transport) and you can get those in any length you choose... Use engineered lumber (LVL/LSL) studs on any wall that is going to have cabinetry and be extra careful to install said joists plumb. Scribing cabinets is time consuming and tedious. The slight cost disadvantage of the perfectly straight studs will easily pay for itself when hanging cabinets. |
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