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#1 |
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Remote won't open doors, won't start car. Spare remote also doesn't work. No click when key turns in ignition. No lights or other sign of life. Everything seems dead. Any idea what the trouble could be? This is keyed, not keyless ignition. Thank you!
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#2 | |
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Sounds like you need a brand new battery. Better yet, you better hope it's a battery because that's a cheap fix! |
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#3 |
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I just put the charger on the battery for 30 minutes. The engine turned over a bit so it looks like the key is fine.
The charger read about 10 volts when I first hooked it up. Seems like it should have started with 10 volts?? Last edited by SailinAway; 10-17-2021 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Error---changed "10 amps" to "10 volts." |
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#4 | |
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The question is why was the battery dead? When was the last time the car was run? Was something left on that would drain the battery (harder to do in newer cars). |
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#5 | |
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Used car was purchased two years ago with 68,000 miles, now has 85,000. The battery was not new when I bought the car, so it could be 3 or more years old. |
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#6 |
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A 10-amp battery charger may not have enough power to start the car when hooked up at first, but let it charge for 30-60 minutes and the battery powers up to 12.5 volts or so, enough to make it start.
For cars with a manual transmission, let the car be pushed or rolled down a convenient slight downhill slope, and slowly let the clutch out in second gear, with the ignition in the run position, and it will make the engine turn over and start it up, just like magic! Sorry, doesn't do it with an automatic transmission ....... too bad!
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#7 | |
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It's charging for two hours and it still reads 10 volts. |
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#8 |
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I'm looking for a new battery online. Not coming up with much other than DuraLast at AutoZone.
Will AutoZone install the battery if I can get the car to them? (Years ago the Franklin AutoZone made house calls, but they don't do that anymore.) . . . assuming that the problem is actually the battery and not the alternator. |
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#9 |
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A battery reading anything less than 12 volts is either completely dead or has a bad cell. Don't use voltage as an indicator of whether a battery will start a car or not.
I'd strongly recommend buying a new battery. It is the most likely problem and if you replace the battery and find you have further problems, probably with the alternator, then you still have a fresh new battery and won't have to think about that component for years. |
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#10 |
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I believe Autozone will help with battery install, if fairly straightforward. 95% of cars are extremely easy, but a few brands/models put batteries in ridiculous places.
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#11 |
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I hope it works out for you.
BTW... Some cars with fobs have an entry key hidden within the fob. That helps you get access to the inside hood release to change a dead battery. |
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#12 | |
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Yes, I totally agree with this having experienced it many, many years ago. I had a 1956 Lincoln Premiere, and believe it or not the battery was located behind the foot area where the front seat passenger placed their feet. Imagine how difficult it was when I needed to use a trickle charger or get a jump.... Though I will say it was a 12 volt system. Up until about then many vehicles used a 6 volt battery. |
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#13 |
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Any battery fully charged should show 12+ volts, almost 13 volts. After a full charge, it should not be 10 volts, the battery is dead. You can check the fluid level if the fluids are below the plates it's bad.
Check the owner's manual for the correct size and amperage of the battery. The car is used so it may not have the correct battery. Also, check the manual and see if there is an auxiliary battery for electronics. Brand new cars have them. Once the battery is replaced or checked out to be good. Have your mechanic check out the charging system. It may or may not be charging properly. I've seen bad charging that does not trip a CEL. Good luck!
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#14 |
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Thanks to all for your input. Much appreciated!
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#15 |
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AAA will come to you and install a new battery if you are a member
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#16 |
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Dead battery, 10volts is not enough potential for a newer car. I would disconnect the battery, leave it on the charger for a day, disconnect it for an hour, then check the voltage. If it is below 12.5V at that point, I'd just get a new one. In fact, personally, since you don't know how old it is, I'd just go get a new one. Bring the old one with you, the car parts store will take it.
Hopefully it's just an old battery issue, if not you'll know pretty quickly. |
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#17 |
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Update: I left the battery on the charger for 3 hours last night and was able to start the car last night and this morning. I guess I should go to AutoZone and ask them to test it and probably replace the battery.
Any thoughts on the Duralast Gold, $180? https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/832330_0_0 |
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#18 |
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I've used a lot of Duralast Gold's over the years, with good results. But, for me the prices have gotten out of hand on them. I'd suggest going to Walmart and looking at Everstart Maxx batteries, I don't know what car you have or what battery you are looking for but I bet you get something equivalent to the Duralast for $130 or so.
Literally the only things I buy at Walmart are car/boat batteries and motor oil. |
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#19 | |
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