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		#1 | 
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			Can Forum share process to winterize an Outboard 2-Stroke. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	Have searched the Forum for information about this, but all Forum Threads on winterization, seem to be focused on I/O winterization ? I know the basics, fog the Carbs, add StaBill or facimile, but what else needs to be done for a 2-Stroke engine specifically? Thanks, Bigdog  | 
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		#2 | 
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			I do all of the above but also change out the lower unit oil in case and water has gotten in there
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#3 | 
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			I agree with the lower unit oil change.  Its kind of like getting your bloodwork done.  It tells you if a problem is brewing.  Milky oil is a sign of water and of a pending repair.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#4 | 
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			If stored in a non-heated space you are going to want to get some anti-freeze in it.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	Getting ready for winter!  | 
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		#5 | 
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			Outboard will be stored outdoors all winter. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	That being said, is getting anti-freeze into engine difficult? Only dealt with I/O wonterization, in the past, and that was an eay task, pulled all hoses, and back-filled with A.F. Can the same process be performed with an outboard, or is this done using motor-mufffs and a AF kit? Thanks, Bigdog  | 
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		#6 | 
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			I worked at a marina for years, I never heard of nor did I ever add antifreeze to any outboard. Unless things have changed to the best of my knowledge an outboard engine is self draining (in the down position obviously) please correct me if I'm wrong.  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	I also cover the prop area with a heavy trash bag and duct tape it off so snow doesn't accumulate in the housing. That is if you're storing it outside.  | 
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		#7 | 
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			I know this isn't the most difficult job in the world to do but why chance it given the value of an outboard?  Have a professional do the work.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#8 | 
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			In addition to fogging, changing the gear case oil and draining the water, I would run it on stabilized fuel, but disconnect the fuel line and run it out of gas so little to no gas remains in the carburetors over the Winter.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#9 | 
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			Decades ago, someone at Shep Brown's advised lowering the motor after it was out of the water and cranking the engine a few turns, the idea being to let any water trapped in the water pump to drain out. Does this advice apply to today's outboards?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#10 | 
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			Yes, lots of good advice here- shut the fuel off and run it (in the water or on muffs) till it runs out of fuel, pull it, trim it all the way down to drain any residual h2o and add fuel treatment to the tank. You can also pull the spark plugs and throw a squirt of mystery oil in each cylinder. Definitely change the lower unit oil. On a new, bigger HP engine - read the owners manual and follow it carefully as they might specify what to use to 'fog' the cylinders. No anti-freeze needed.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#11 | 
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			1) stabilize the hell out of the fuel because the new fuel is terrible. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	2) fog the engine through the carbs while running untill you see a good amount of smoke. ( if its a johnson or evinude it may have a valve designed for winterization on the carburator thats vey easy to use) 3) when the engine / boat is out of the water change the gear lube for all the reasons in the prior post. 4) crank the engine just to get it to fire and that will drain all the water out of the engine. ( you do not use antifreeze on an outboard engine ) 5) you can run an out board on muffs. 6) disconnect or pull the battery out.  | 
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