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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,985
Thanks: 246
Thanked 744 Times in 444 Posts
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Engine makes a huge difference in the prop selection process. Anything over 4.3 liters should really have a stainless steel prop, IMO. The torque that bigger engines make will flex the blades badly on an aluminum prop and make the boat feel mushy. Below 4.3 liters, there's not a big advantage to stainless steel. I suggest not hitting rocks no matter what you choose. I would get the damaged prop repaired by a local welder (cheaper than a prop shop) and use it as a spare.
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#2 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Salem MA, Rattlesnake
Posts: 19
Thanks: 27
Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts
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Quote:
I've got an older damaged aluminum prop (1.5" chunk out of one of the blades) I'd like to have repaired to keep as a backup. We have a 3.0L I/O. A new prop is $125 so sending it for repair @ $80 seems a bit high. I'd be interested in any local welder suggestions you have, I called a few but none I called do this (East Coast Welding for example doesn't). Thanks. -Wiezy |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,985
Thanks: 246
Thanked 744 Times in 444 Posts
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A guy named Brian Henderson in Belmot says he does them on a facebook post. He posted his number: 603-249-6002
I do not know Brian and have never seen his work in person, but prop repair ain't exactly rocket surgery, so I imagine he can easily fix it. I would like to preemptively point out that despite a popular rumor, propellers do not need to be perfectly balanced. The bearings in the lower unit are easily able to handle unbalanced loads. I built a balance rig when I repaired a prop many years ago and got mine perfect. I then put a brand new prop on it and discovered it was way out of balance from the factory. Both props worked fine... |
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