Truck Buyers Beware

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by Little Bear

Solve all the problems - buy a Tundra. Made in Texas, USA.

Not in this life!

Next time I get the Dodge!!

W/Mega-Cab - long Bed - and 4.10's!!! Now thats a real "man-truck" for sure.

GH

p.s. Or maybe one of these,,,

[Tank151]

Originally Posted by XCR-700

Not in this life!

Next time I get the Dodge!!

W/Mega-Cab - long Bed - and 4.10's!!! Now thats a real "man-truck" for sure.

GH

p.s. Or maybe one of these,,,

You want a work or towing truck? Buy Ford

You want comfort and ride? Buy a Chevy or GMC

You want a "planter"? Buy a DODGE!

You want to accelerate really fast and don"t want to stop or steer? Buy a Toyota!

[jmen24]

Tank1, that was funny.

Something else to consider when truck shopping.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...ord_spark.html

Our Ford E350 box van has had three blow out of the head. All different ports.

[Wolfeboro_Baja]

Originally Posted by jmen24

Tank1, that was funny.

Something else to consider when truck shopping.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...ord_spark.html

Our Ford E350 box van has had three blow out of the head. All different ports.

Damn, THAT doesn't give me a warm, fuzzy feeling!

I have a 2001 F-250 with the 5.4 Triton BUT it only has 55,000+ miles on it. If it's an age-related issue (meaning based on # of hrs or miles on the vehicle), then maybe I've got a few more years left on it before it starts popping plugs (since I don't put alot of miles on it)!

[jmen24]

Originally Posted by Wolfeboro_Baja

Damn, THAT doesn't give me a warm, fuzzy feeling!

I have a 2001 F-250 with the 5.4 Triton BUT it only has 55,000+ miles on it. If it's an age-related issue (meaning based on # of hrs or miles on the vehicle), then maybe I've got a few more years left on it before it starts popping plugs (since I don't put alot of miles on it)!

Wish I could tell you that it is mileage related, but the first one popped at around 20K the other two last year at over 150K. It is a 2002.

Has more to do with the head material and whether your number is up, have friends with Ford's that have never had an issue, well into the 200K range.

When I first looked into the issue last year (I was not around for the first one) I was blown away when I started reading those entries (300+ pages worth).

It seems to be new and old, basically anything with that head on the Triton. You don't hear much on the news regarding this issue that has been going on for years, granted I do not think anyone has died because of it, but some of the failures have been fairly catastophic from the posts.

[NoBozo]

Originally Posted by jmen24

Wish I could tell you that it is mileage related, but the first one popped at around 20K the other two last year at over 150K. It is a 2002.

Has more to do with the head material and whether your number is up, have friends with Ford's that have never had an issue, well into the 200K range.

When I first looked into the issue last year (I was not around for the first one) I was blown away when I started reading those entries (300+ pages worth).

It seems to be new and old, basically anything with that head on the Triton. You don't hear much on the news regarding this issue that has been going on for years, granted I do not think anyone has died because of it, but some of the failures have been fairly catastophic from the posts.

Reading the first few pages of comments leads me to believe that either the spark plug hole threads in the heads are stripping out..OR... in a couple of cases the plugs Broke Off, leaving the threaded portion of the plug still in the head during removal.

If the head material is aluminum, stripping the threads out when removing the the plugs can be avoided by always useing "Anti Seize Compound" on the spark plug threads when screwing them in will Solve that problem. I do this every time I remove or replace the plugs, even in the more common cast iron heads.

If stripping is occuring, I can see why Ford is ignoring it. A good mechanic WILL use the compond, and the threads won't strip. It's just good practice to use it and Ford can't be held responsible for mechanics poor workmanship. Aluminum IS very tender and can be stripped if you're not careful.

Now, many people reported the plugs were actually "blowing out" of the head. Is that a "correct" description of what's going on or is that just what the laymen owner was told..? Does Ford make their own spark plugs..?

Anywho: If the plug actually strips out the threads in the head, the solution is relatively easy to fix. Remove the heads (not that expensive) and Drill, Tap, and Insert Heli Coils in the plug holes. "Heli Coil" provides the special tools for their inserts, and any good mechanic has them. Do ALL the plug holes at the same time. That way you only have to remove the heads once.

Always use "Anti Seize Compound". Permatex makes it and it comes in a little tube that can be found at any NAPA or Bennys, etc

It's probably a good idea to remove all your plugs early in the life of the car and apply the compound as soon as you can. A little Perventive Maintenance. NB

BTW: If yhe plugs are actually breaking off in the hole.. leaving the threaded part of the plug in the hole....That will be expensive because there is nothing left to get a hold of to screw the broken piece out. Sometimes an "Easy Out" tool works but I've never had any luck with them. .....AND....if you break off the "hardened" steel Easy Out in the hole in the broken plug..you are REALLY screwed then.

[jmen24]

In the case of the two plugs for us last year, the plug blew out of the threaded hole with the head threads still firmly attached to the plug threads, nothing left in the head, while driving, both at the same time on almost polar opposite cylinders. Required tapping new threads and a hela-coil. Grapone quoted us at $5400.00, said they had to pull the engine to repair, had it done at my friends garage (professional shop in Loudon) for $700.00, no need to pull the motor out.

When my wife and I were first dating this same thing happened to her 1990 Ford Escort.

I would have no doubt that inserting a new plug with to much torque could start this problem. Our plugs were a little over 50K since the last tune up, so they held for quite a while if this was the case. Hard telling not knowing.

This appears to be a fairly Triton specific issue.

That would be one really large list of poor mechanics if it was a simple case of stripping the threads during removal.

Anyway, no real dog in the fight, could care less what brand of vehicle one drives, I select based on options required or wanted vs. value to get them.

Just thought I would add the information for any potential shoppers out there.

[NoBozo]

Thanks Jmen: The threads in an aluminum head can be stripped out during routine plug removal if the plugs have been in there awhile. I think I'm going to take my own advice and pull the plugs on both my Toyotas ('05 and '07) and apply the Anti Seize Compound to the plug threads ASAP. I've never had them out yet since new because the mileage is low. Around 21k miles on the '07 Tacoma. NB

[robmac]

Another thing to remember manufacturers recommend removal after engine cool down period. Most failures I have repaired come from the quicky tune-up places that just pop open the hood and try and remove them. Knock on wood I have never had that problem but any good tech can repair it fairly easily.

[VtSteve]

Originally Posted by jmen24

Tank1, that was funny.

Something else to consider when truck shopping.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...ord_spark.html

Our Ford E350 box van has had three blow out of the head. All different ports.

I've heard of that. In addition, they have a fifteen year-old problem that could definitely warm up your engine compartment

Thankfully, these fires are not a safety issue, because the fires are "mostly" contained within the engine compartment. Except when they're not.

[gf2020]

I originally posted on this thread 2 months ago.

I finally purchased a new 2010 Toyota Tundra CrewMax today. I have previously owned a 2004 Nissan Titan crew cab and a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab.

I was really leaning towards another Titan again, there are great deals to be had on them. I also liked the new F-150 very much but I could not cut a decent deal including my trade. I never seriously considered Chevrolet/GMC or Dodge, their prices are too high, no doubt due to the bailout requirements.

In the end, however, I decided to try the Tundra even though it is a bit more expensive than the Titan. I hope it turns out OK, I plan to keep this one 9 years (until my boys are out of college).

Toyota upped their incentives on Tuesday to a $2000 rebate and 0% financing for 60 months on the CrewMax so I pulled the trigger today.

P.S. It has a tow rating of 10,300 pounds.

[Mr. V]

I have a newer Ford, but just for kicks I like to hit it old school.

One nice thing about living here on the left coast is all the rust free old iron.

My '79 Jeep Cherokee Chief, which I restored, is Da Bomb.

If only I could figure out a way to ship Old Iron to New England, and turn a profit ...

[ApS]

Originally Posted by Little Bear

Solve all the problems - buy a Tundra. Made in Texas, USA.

Originally Posted by XCR-700

Not in this life!

Next time I get the Dodge!!

W/Mega-Cab - long Bed - and 4.10's!!! Now thats a real "man-truck" for sure.

GH

If you're looking at a taxpayer-subsidized Dodge pickup, consider the optional "RamBox Holsters" (a $1895 option).

'Looks like a tidy spot for a 308.