Insulating an OLD House-Oil Costs

[camp guy]

In all these posts I don't remember seeing anything about a home inspection. The home inspector works for you, and you pay for, and own, the completed report. Hopefully, a qualified home inspector would/should list the name and details of certain items, usually including the electrical system, plumbing pipe types, furnace, woodstore, appliances, and insulation in the walls and ceiling. This document can double up as a "work order" for you for future home improvements, assuming everything is currently working and satisfactory now. Satisfactory in that it works, not necessarily satisfactory in 2011 level of standards.

As I read through these posts I get the feeling that everyone is saying about the same thing when it comes to buying an old(er) home: it is an investment which turns into a work in progress with no definite time table or budget. Bluntly, if this isn't something you are comfortable with, I suggest, gently, you rethink your living arrangements.

I wish you the very best, and I urge caution in whatever you do.

[CateP]

Originally Posted by camp guy

As I read through these posts I get the feeling that everyone is saying about the same thing when it comes to buying an old(er) home: it is an investment which turns into a work in progress with no definite time table or budget. Bluntly, if this isn't something you are comfortable with, I suggest, gently, you rethink your living arrangements.

What's interesting to me is that 25-30 years from now, when we are happily living in the lakes region, that "newer" home we bought back in 2011 will probably have had it's fair share of repairs and maintenance. Possibly some major ones. (Roof, HVAC)

So in an older house (that has stood the test of time), if previous owners have updated the major systems (electric, plumbing ) and replaced windows and the roof, what really is the big difference?

Aren't most houses a work in progress and in need of ongoing maintenance?

Your point about the home inspection is excellent and one not to be forgotten, Camp Guy.

[Lakegeezer]

Originally Posted by CateP

So in an older house (that has stood the test of time), if previous owners have updated the major systems (electric, plumbing ) and replaced windows and the roof, what really is the big difference?

Many houses built in the 80's or earlier used 2x4 wood framing, so only 3" of insulation can be in the walls. From mid-80's on, most houses used 2x6 framing, and have five inches of insulation. All other things equal, that makes a big difference in how much heat escapes. Of course, today, foam insulation may be used instead of fiberglass, and provide even a tighter cage for the heat.

[dpg]

Maybe I'm wrong but I do not considor a 15 year old furnace to be very old. As stated earlier I'd tackle other tasks like insulation and buttoning up the outside if it warrants. Sure there's newer and more efficient furnaces out there however a furnace isn't a throw out every couple year commodity. Mine in Mass is 31 years old (fingers crossed as I say it.)

[CateP]

Originally Posted by Lakegeezer

Many houses built in the 80's or earlier used 2x4 wood framing, so only 3" of insulation can be in the walls. From mid-80's on, most houses used 2x6 framing, and have five inches of insulation. All other things equal, that makes a big difference in how much heat escapes. Of course, today, foam insulation may be used instead of fiberglass, and provide even a tighter cage for the heat.

Now see? This is very interesting. I didn't know about the different framing sizes. I am learning so much on this forum. Thanks everybody.

[DickR]

If you tentatively decide on a house, but wonder just how leaky (ie. drafty and uncomfortable) it may be, one of the things you could pay to have done as part of inspection is a blower door test. A fabric-covered adjustable frame is fit tightly into an open door, and a fan is mounted in that frame. The fan is turned on to depressurize the house slightly and an instrument shows the amount of air (cubic feet/minute) needed to maintain a standard pressure difference (50 Pascals - quite small, so as not to cause any harm). That flow, times 60, is divided by the gross house volume to give standard air changes per hour (ACH), and that divided by a factor around 18 gives an approximation of "natural" ACH in cold, windy weather. The tester will be able to relate that in relative terms to "tight," average, or "leaks like a barn with the door open."

You'd want to be around for the test if possible, to take copious notes. Part of the testing may well include flagging the major sources of air leakage. Such places often are so easy to seal with canned foam or non-hardening sealant. Air leakage plays a HUGE role in the cost of heating a house in a cold climate, far more than many realize. A leaky house in otherwise good condition could well be turned into a very comfortable place with acceptable heating cost with relatively little effort, much of which you can do yourself if you are willing to crawl around in old clothes and a dust mask.