Get your crabgrass preventor down soon

Gearhead · 04-08-2011, 07:34 AM

Thanks LP for the great information! The part of my yard where the leach field is has nothing but crabgrass and ants. Would I be correct to think that I would not want to put down crabgrass preventer then try to reseed? It has always looked like a dead zone until the crabgrass starts to grow.

VitaBene · 04-08-2011, 08:00 AM

Gearhead, The problem with leach fields typically is a lack of good loam or topsoil over the sand and sandy fill that makes up your field. The water runs right through the sand and does not get retained.

Check to see if you have at least 3 inches of good stuff (preferably 6") or you will be wasting your money seeding. With enough loam you should be able to put down an inch of water at one time and have that last a week. Doing so, causes the roots to "dive" for water thereby establishing a good, deep root structure. When you surface water daily, the roots never have to go deep.

SIKSUKR · 04-08-2011, 02:12 PM

I'm liking this thread already guys as I need serious help on my lawns.I want LS's lawn.Very nice but the pc people will be chiming in soon I'm sure..

lawn psycho · 04-08-2011, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead

Thanks LP for the great information! The part of my yard where the leach field is has nothing but crabgrass and ants. Would I be correct to think that I would not want to put down crabgrass preventer then try to reseed? It has always looked like a dead zone until the crabgrass starts to grow.

Prodiamine prevents germination and root growth. Trust me if you try to overseed after applying Stonewall that you're wasting your money. Prodiamine at full rate has a 6 month residual so it also means you can't overseed in the fall either.

You can apply Scotts w/Crabgrass preventor that has Tupersan as that won't prevent your grass seed from germinating. Look at the label to check that it has Tupersan and not Dimension in the ingredients.

Vita is correct, without good soil you're doomed. Once you get good soil structure and proper pH as determined by a real (ie not one of those cheap kits from big box) lab such as UNH co-op or JD landscapes good things start happening.

04-08-2011, 02:12 PM	#3
SIKSUKR Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 5,075 Thanks: 215 Thanked 903 Times in 509 Posts	I'm liking this thread already guys as I need serious help on my lawns.I want LS's lawn.Very nice but the pc people will be chiming in soon I'm sure.. __________________ SIKSUKR

04-08-2011, 07:34 AM	#1
Gearhead Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Alton Posts: 166 Thanks: 13 Thanked 19 Times in 8 Posts	Thanks LP for the great information! The part of my yard where the leach field is has nothing but crabgrass and ants. Would I be correct to think that I would not want to put down crabgrass preventer then try to reseed? It has always looked like a dead zone until the crabgrass starts to grow.

04-08-2011, 08:00 AM	#2
VitaBene Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Moultonborough Posts: 3,576 Thanks: 1,611 Thanked 1,632 Times in 839 Posts	Gearhead, The problem with leach fields typically is a lack of good loam or topsoil over the sand and sandy fill that makes up your field. The water runs right through the sand and does not get retained. Check to see if you have at least 3 inches of good stuff (preferably 6") or you will be wasting your money seeding. With enough loam you should be able to put down an inch of water at one time and have that last a week. Doing so, causes the roots to "dive" for water thereby establishing a good, deep root structure. When you surface water daily, the roots never have to go deep.

The Following User Says Thank You to VitaBene For This Useful Post:
Gearhead (04-08-2011)