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Old 02-18-2013, 04:21 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by NoBozo View Post
Thanks Slickcraft for that link. I spent some time looking at the website. Very informative....Also.. that you have a Honda 2000i and it works fine for more stuff than I would have thought.

I'm looking at the Reliance 30114a Transfer Switch that can supply 4 circuits. I could wire the switch YOU have myself..BUT, but would not feel comfortable going beyond that. (enter An electricion) I would like to have the 4 circuit upgrade so my wife can do it on her own later...and get a couple more circuits.

I swapped my new Honda 2000i back for the 2000i "Companion" last weekend so I'm now committed to that. The "Companion" has ONE 30 Amp 125 Volt twist/lock conector (L5-30), and ONE 20Amp 125 volt (5-20)...Ie: a normal three prong plug that everyone is familiar with. The basic 2000i has TWO 5-20 connectors.

The 30114a ...4 circuit switch is the only one that has a L5-30 connector..and fits the relatively LOW output of the 2000i. NB
Did you ever end up getting the 30114a Transfer Switch?

I think the Honda 2000i Companion would work OK with this Transfer Switch.

You have probably already viewed this video about how to hook it up, but if not then take a look at it and you will see that it is easy to do: http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Stre...Player_T1.aspx

I think if a Monkey watched the video he could do it...Maybe.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:49 AM   #2
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Cool Me, I am scared to death about electricity, but...

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Did you ever end up getting the 30114a Transfer Switch?

I think the Honda 2000i Companion would work OK with this Transfer Switch.

You have probably already viewed this video about how to hook it up, but if not then take a look at it and you will see that it is easy to do: http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Stre...Player_T1.aspx

I think if a Monkey watched the video he could do it...Maybe.
Now I watched the videos, all of them, and agree it looks pretty easy. I had the audio off, so as not to disturb someone who was watching TV 5 ft away from me. One thing I noticed is that whenever wire nuts were installed, they were not secured by electrical tape. I thought that was a given. Or perhaps they said to secure it with tape, and I missed it by having the volume off.

I must agree that even with my great fear, even I would feel confident in performing this installation. Thanks for sharing.

Oh, and it looks like the model in the video was the 30216a with an MSRP of about $380 vs $200 for the 30114a
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:05 AM   #3
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One thing I noticed is that whenever wire nuts were installed, they were not secured by electrical tape. I thought that was a given.
Electrical tape has almost no use in proper installations. A roll of tape will last a good technician his entire career (OK, maybe a bit of an over-exaggeration).

But, no, you do not tape wire nuts.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:40 PM   #4
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Now I watched the videos, all of them, and agree it looks pretty easy. I had the audio off, so as not to disturb someone who was watching TV 5 ft away from me. One thing I noticed is that whenever wire nuts were installed, they were not secured by electrical tape. I thought that was a given. Or perhaps they said to secure it with tape, and I missed it by having the volume off.

I must agree that even with my great fear, even I would feel confident in performing this installation. Thanks for sharing.

Oh, and it looks like the model in the video was the 30216a with an MSRP of about $380 vs $200 for the 30114a
The code states to attach the wire nuts per the manufacturer's specifications. Taping is not a requirement but some people will do it anyway. I always put tape on outlet and switch wire nuts. Sometimes when you put them back inside the box they have a tendency to loosen up and the tape helps to prevent that.
The 30114a is 4 circuit and the 30116a is 6 circuit. Hence the 4 and 6 at the end of the number.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:05 PM   #5
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The code states to attach the wire nuts per the manufacturer's specifications. Taping is not a requirement but some people will do it anyway. I always put tape on outlet and switch wire nuts. Sometimes when you put them back inside the box they have a tendency to loosen up and the tape helps to prevent that.
The 30114a is 4 circuit and the 30116a is 6 circuit. Hence the 4 and 6 at the end of the number.
If your wire nuts loosen up, then you're installing them wrong. Tape isn't solving the problem, it's just masking poor quality work.

Electrical tape is notorious for shrinking over time or with heat, and loosing its stick. You come back to a gooey mess if you need to service the work later.

When was the last time you looked at the work of a professional electrician and saw taped wire nuts?
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:34 PM   #6
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When I finished my basement I did all of the electrical work and every place that I put a wire nut has tape around the bottom of it. I even put tape on the ceiling lights, fan, and junction box wire nuts.

I also attached the wires together just below the bare part with a piece of tape before I put the wire nuts on.

When the code cop inspected it he said that I did a good job.

However I didn't put any tape on the wire nuts in the circuit panel when I ran wire from there to the room or when I hooked up my transfer switch. Maybe I should have come to think of it.

Now I have to go buy NoBozo some banana's because I think I convinced him that monkey's can do house wiring.
I think this is the same switch..with a NEW name and number. It was back ordered last month. NOW it's available. NB

http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Prod...il.aspx?TF151W

EDIT: I just ordered it: AMAZON: $69.99.

Watch out for Rusty: He's PUSHY...

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Old 03-04-2013, 10:43 AM   #7
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When the code cop inspected it he said that I did a good job.
It's not against code, it's just (generally) a sign of amateur/DIY work.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:18 PM   #8
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Yout wire nuts should never loosen up by just bending wires and stuffing them in the box.Scary stuff.This should tell you that your not installing them properly.First,make sure both(or 3)(no more than 3) of the wires are stripped the same length and will be encased in the nut after tightening.Have them all nice and straight and all standing right next to each other and especially,have all the ends at the same position.Twist your nut while firmly holding all the wires and don't let go of the wires until your have the nut pretty secure.Twist it as hard as you can by hand until the wires actually start to twist.A couple electricians I know will actually finish twisting larger gauge (12,10 and up) with lineman pliers.Lastly,pull on all each wire
to see if it stays connected.I've had a more than a few pull out when I thought they were tight.That loose wire is exactly what you don't want and this is an easy check to see that they are securely fastened.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:27 PM   #9
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It's not against code, it's just (generally) a sign of amateur/DIY work.
OK, you win.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:18 PM   #10
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If you twist enough wire nuts, you can usually feel a bad connection. Either the wire nut will feel tight sooner than it should or it will not tighten. In either case, take the connection apart and remake it. There is really no need to tape a properly made connection.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:08 PM   #11
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Default Update

The transfer switch came in today from Amazon. The three prong recessed (male) recepticle was seperate and not installed in the transfer switch box. The instructions regarding this were non existant.

Inside the box were three pigtails..stripped on the ends: Black, White and Green that are intended to be wired to the back of the male recessed three prong recepticle which will be installed in the front of the box.

SO: Obviously the Green wire is Ground. and can be inserted into the Green terminal in the back of the three prong recessed recepticle. What about the Black and White pigtails..?? Which color (B or W) goes on "which flat blade" .. of the male (Recessed) three prong recepticle..??

Monkey wants another banana. NB
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:17 PM   #12
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In AC systems, white is neutral and goes to the wider prong and black is hot and goes to the smaller prong.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #13
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Usually there is a gold terminal and a silver terminal. Black goes to the gold terminal if there is one.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:29 PM   #14
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the brass screw is for the hot wire (black) and silver screw is for the neutral wire (white).
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #15
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No Silver or Gold terminals on the Leviton connector supplied with the transfer switch. Just the Green. NB

EDIT: See post #85.

Last edited by NoBozo; 03-06-2013 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:51 PM   #16
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No Silver or Gold terminals on the Leviton connector supplied with the transfer switch. Just the Green. NB
The below example will be for your inlet. Your blades are probably the same size and one might be gold and the other silver. If they are then hook the black wire to the gold blade. If not then the white wire goes to the right when the ground terminal is at the top as shown:

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Last edited by Rusty; 03-05-2013 at 10:57 PM. Reason: clarified the terminal and added blade color
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:01 AM   #17
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Some good advice here...and some bad advice too. How do you choose?
Best advice....mount all the hardware, run all the wires...then call a licensed electrician to make the final connections. Could end up being the best $100 or so you spend.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
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The below example will be for your inlet. Your blades are probably the same size and one might be gold and the other silver. If they are then hook the black wire to the gold blade. If not then the white wire goes to the right when the ground terminal is at the top as shown:

Looking head on at the prongs....with the ground on the top, my white wire is on the left as shown on your illustration. NB
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:34 AM   #19
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Looking head on at the prongs....with the ground on the top, my white wire is on the left as shown on your illustration. NB
You are correct.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:59 AM   #20
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Thanks guys for the input. I had a closer look this morning. There ARE Gold and Silver terminals. Everything checks out. It's wired correctly. NB

Here is the recepticle used.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Produ...minisite=10251
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:08 PM   #21
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Did you ever end up getting the 30114a Transfer Switch?

I think the Honda 2000i Companion would work OK with this Transfer Switch.

You have probably already viewed this video about how to hook it up, but if not then take a look at it and you will see that it is easy to do: http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Stre...Player_T1.aspx

I think if a Monkey watched the video he could do it...Maybe.
Where's my Banana..?? NB
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