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Old 07-31-2014, 04:14 PM   #1
HellRaZoR004
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Originally Posted by ishoot308 View Post
Hey what about that stuff on TV where the guy seals up a screen door on the bottom of his Jon boat.... Bet that would work.... It must work, it's on TV!!

Dan
And I just read this on the internet so it must be real
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:40 AM   #2
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If you can, pull the boat out of the water on a trailer. When on dry land, put some water in the boat. Give it a little time, and look underneath to see where the water is leaking from.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:23 AM   #3
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My neighbors have been great they have been watching it twice a day for me

here is the update:
another day yesterday and this morning:
nothing yesterday am (less than 3 second pump when last pumped about 8pm prior) then yesterday at about 6pm pumped about 25 seconds, this morning less than a 5 second pump


When I bought the boat after test driving and purchasing I brought it home, let it dry, and then filled the bilge with water, it sat overnight - nothing
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:41 PM   #4
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just went to west marine on my break and picked up Capt. Tolleys. Spoke to an old salt in there as well, He was saying the same thing, the heat in the day could be causing the aluminum to expand and contract and allowing water to seep in. Said this should fix the problem. Also I am going to check and more than likely just replace my live well pump line as that could have a small crack in it, but I doubt it, because any crack in a line or hull would show a continuous amount of water in the boat when checking at 12 hour intervals, but you never know if it is rocking back and forth during the day on the water line
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:50 AM   #5
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yanked it on Friday evening, let drain, got underneath it, found most of the rivets dripping, also pulled the floor and found that someone used 2inch plant foam (like the stuff that you poke the stems in and retains water) was used as ballast foam. Must have removed water wait of close to 60lbs, and I ended up replacing that with 2 inch closed cell water and mold resistant foam insulation found at any home depot type stores. coated all exposed rivets from the inside and even the ones under the fishing decks, went underneath and did the same thing. Let sit for over 24 hours launch it fished for 4 hours, put it on the mooring, waited over 9 hours......still taking in water but only pumped for about 20 seconds.

used capt. tolleys from the top, and then also lifelock on the bottom

Think I will pull it and have someone weld the rivets, would that be a problem? I would not think so
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:22 PM   #6
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hi guys
Have any of you heard about/used Gulvit?
seems it is a bottom coat like item
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by AC2717 View Post
yanked it on Friday evening, let drain, got underneath it, found most of the rivets dripping, also pulled the floor and found that someone used 2inch plant foam (like the stuff that you poke the stems in and retains water) was used as ballast foam. Must have removed water wait of close to 60lbs, and I ended up replacing that with 2 inch closed cell water and mold resistant foam insulation found at any home depot type stores. coated all exposed rivets from the inside and even the ones under the fishing decks, went underneath and did the same thing. Let sit for over 24 hours launch it fished for 4 hours, put it on the mooring, waited over 9 hours......still taking in water but only pumped for about 20 seconds.

used capt. tolleys from the top, and then also lifelock on the bottom

Think I will pull it and have someone weld the rivets, would that be a problem? I would not think so
"Great-Stuff", Home Depot's expanding foam (from a can) isn't the best choice for marine applications, as it absorbs standing water—but used where it mostly stays dry—it should be OK. The "good" stuff comes as a two-part mix, and it is even messier to work with in tight quarters.

"Welding" (heliarcing) requires an extremely clean surface. Now that the rivets have goo on them, your best choice now is to hammer each rivet—using a second hammer to back up each rivet—this requires two persons. Both will find ear protection a must.

It still won't be leak-free, but you'll have brought the rivets into closer tolerances than before, and it won't have cost a lot of money.

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