Help With Bow Rail Install

[Airedale1]

I have 88 Montauk 17. I bought an aftermarket bow rail for it from Specialty Marine. The directions, it say to drill two 9/64" holes for the stanchion support which is behind the bow light and forward of the Norman pin. When I did that I hit metal and when I was finally able to drill through it I could not get the supplied screws to screw down. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Am I doing something wrong?

Any suggestions on someone in the area that could assist?

[brk-lnt]

Do you have any pics of the area?

Did the metal feel thick, like a support plate, or thin?

[Airedale1]

It felt fairly thick, but I could not say for certain. The stanchion upright support is the one in the center. I just placed it there so you could see the spot.

[MOXIE]

I have an 88 Montauk. I have owned it for 19yrs. Boston Whaler "casts" into the hull marine plywood at all the locations you would want to mount something. You can find a print of the exact sizes and location of this wood, by going on the Boston Whaler group website. I have a print somewhere. Your boat was born in Rockland ma. and the rails were made in Weymouth Ma.
I would not drill a hole until I check the print. MOXIE

[Airedale1]

Originally Posted by MOXIE

I have an 88 Montauk. I have owned it for 19yrs. Boston Whaler "casts" into the hull marine plywood at all the locations you would want to mount something. You can find a print of the exact sizes and location of this wood, by going on the Boston Whaler group website. I have a print somewhere. Your boat was born in Rockland ma. and the rails were made in Weymouth Ma.
I would not drill a hole until I check the print. MOXIE

Thanks Moxie. Does yours have a bow rail? The bow rail I bought is an after market one from Specialty Marine (and yes I have sent them an inquiry).

This is how it should look.

[brk-lnt]

Do you know for a fact you hit metal? Did you see any metal shavings?

If the metal plate is thick, I'd probably see about just tapping a thread into it.

[Rich]

If you hit metal, unless you are tapping for a machine thread screw, which you will then use a tap to cut the threads, you may have to go up in size slighty of the drill used to allow a sheet metal thread screw to install.

Just be sure what you have first! I always measure three times, and try to drill once (or twice if you have to go up in hole size).

[Airedale1]

Originally Posted by brk-lnt

Do you know for a fact you hit metal? Did you see any metal shavings?

If the metal plate is thick, I'd probably see about just tapping a thread into it.

I definitely hit metal, saw plenty of shavings and subsequently I have found out that what I drilled into is a 1 1/4" x 3" x 3/8 aluminum block in there.

I have neither the tools nor the expertise to do a proper fix, e.g. tapping threads for a machine screw or making hole a bit larger; fill it with marine-tex re-drill and then using supplied screws.

Anybody have a suggestion of a local shop that could do this for me?

[AC2717]

use a self tapping screw for the mount into that aluminum with sealant epoxy to help seal around the screw and head

[Charlie T]

Originally Posted by Airedale1

I definitely hit metal, saw plenty of shavings and subsequently I have found out that what I drilled into is a 1 1/4" x 3" x 3/8 aluminum block in there.

I have neither the tools nor the expertise to do a proper fix, e.g. tapping threads for a machine screw or making hole a bit larger; fill it with marine-tex re-drill and then using supplied screws.

Anybody have a suggestion of a local shop that could do this for me?

Any half way decent mechanic will have a Tap and Die set. If you trailer the boat just call your local mechanic and ask him if he can tap a couple of holes for you. It should be a 5 min job. If your mechanic doesn't want to do it there is a Machine Shop on the right hand side just before Home Depot in Tilton, I'm sure he could do the work for you as well. I've never used him but again any decent machine shop will have a full assortment of taps and the ability to use them.

Good Luck

CT

[ApS]

Originally Posted by Airedale1

I definitely hit metal, saw plenty of shavings and subsequently I have found out that what I drilled into is a 1 1/4" x 3" x 3/8 aluminum block in there. I have neither the tools nor the expertise to do a proper fix, e.g. tapping threads for a machine screw or making hole a bit larger; fill it with marine-tex re-drill and then using supplied screws. Anybody have a suggestion of a local shop that could do this for me?

You are very fortunate to have struck aluminum, as there is no easier metal to tap for a machine screw. Take the problem screw to any hardware store, and they can sell you the only two hand tools that are required to set threads into that plate. The technique to advance the tap is easily applied—YouTube has a 2-minute tutorial that doesn't even use words:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEpzH8iVvJI

[brk-lnt]

Originally Posted by Airedale1

I definitely hit metal, saw plenty of shavings and subsequently I have found out that what I drilled into is a 1 1/4" x 3" x 3/8 aluminum block in there.

I have neither the tools nor the expertise to do a proper fix, e.g. tapping threads for a machine screw or making hole a bit larger; fill it with marine-tex re-drill and then using supplied screws.

Anybody have a suggestion of a local shop that could do this for me?

I have taps if you want them. It's pretty easy to do.

[Downeast]

A little late to the thread, and Im not sure how you ended up as this was quite some time ago..

however, if you have not completed it.. and have holes drilled..

If it were my boat or one I was doing for a customer, I would tap a 1/4-20 or or 28 if it is not very thick. . though There should be a good pack of hull and deck putty in that area anyway.. that said you will have plenty of meat to tap a nice bolt into.. especially if you reach metal.

if you need to go larger run it up to 5/16-24.

Be sure to use some UV4000. Additionally Eventually the stainless will marry to to aluminum so be mindful if you plan on removing these fasteners and or head to the coast with the boat, be sure to put a touch of tef gel to the portion of threads mating into the aluminum.

Tell us how you make out.

Ive got all tools and ability to do it for you if you like. -nick



ps.. the newport of the era HAD a bow rail.. shorter and with a visor.. might be an option.


I grew up with the mauntauk. Had an 83 Mercury 70hp and an 89 Mariner 90hp. WE FLOGGED THE SNOT OUT OF IT and it loved every bit. GREAT BOATS and they were tougher than woodpecker lips

[Airedale1]

Originally Posted by Downeast

A little late to the thread, and Im not sure how you ended up as this was quite some time ago..

however, if you have not completed it.. and have holes drilled..

If it were my boat or one I was doing for a customer, I would tap a 1/4-20 or or 28 if it is not very thick. . though There should be a good pack of hull and deck putty in that area anyway.. that said you will have plenty of meat to tap a nice bolt into.. especially if you reach metal.

if you need to go larger run it up to 5/16-24.

Be sure to use some UV4000. Additionally Eventually the stainless will marry to to aluminum so be mindful if you plan on removing these fasteners and or head to the coast with the boat, be sure to put a touch of tef gel to the portion of threads mating into the aluminum.

Tell us how you make out.

Ive got all tools and ability to do it for you if you like. -nick



ps.. the newport of the era HAD a bow rail.. shorter and with a visor.. might be an option.


I grew up with the mauntauk. Had an 83 Mercury 70hp and an 89 Mariner 90hp. WE FLOGGED THE SNOT OUT OF IT and it loved every bit. GREAT BOATS and they were tougher than woodpecker lips

Nick, thank you so much for asking and offering to help. It is much appreciated. I was able to get it done properly with the help (he did most of the work) of my generous brother-in-law. He is a machinist and got it all squared away for me. As, I wrote in another thread:

http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ad.php?t=19267

the addition of the bow-rail meant that I could no longer fold the bimini down and I was able to sort that one out and now both issues are squared away. Again, thank you very much.