Wood dock leveling technique

[colesfamily]

That's a good point regarding if the water is deeper than 5 feet it can get dicey using the jack.

It's a little deeper than that at the end of the dock. My dock is heavy, its a wood dock about 6' wide and I'm guessing it's 8' or more between posts so when I get back to NH I'll look at it again and decide between using a farm jack vs a small commercial airbag and compressor.

After reading one of these recent posts I now understand why my 4"X 4" posts are tilted in different directions, its because the cross members under the dock are mostly missing.

This is all great information. I can't wait to get to it now that I don't have to pay someone who probably would charge $400+ and show up with a farm jack and an inner tube.

Thanks.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by colesfamily

That's a good point regarding if the water is deeper than 5 feet it can get dicey using the jack. It's a little deeper than that at the end of the dock. My dock is heavy, its a wood dock about 6' wide and I'm guessing it's 8' or more between posts so when I get back to NH I'll look at it again and decide between using a farm jack vs a small commercial airbag and compressor. After reading one of these recent posts I now understand why my 4"X 4" posts are tilted in different directions, its because the cross members under the dock are mostly missing. This is all great information. I can't wait to get to it now that I don't have to pay someone who probably would charge $400+ and show up with a farm jack and an inner tube. Thanks.

Thanks—I got a chuckle out of that!

While there are more costly alternatives, Harbor Freight's farm jack is so versatile, you can actually stand on the dock, and still raise it using this jack. The tiny operating lever is very stiff, and sometimes a hit from a screwdriver or wrench is needed to get it to move. Gloves would work.

Importantly, if it gets wet, spray the pin mechanism with white lithium grease to keep it working smoothly.

The price for the farm jack (I have three!) from Harbor Freight—at $39.99—had never been lower than a week ago. Perhaps from pressure from WalMart's jack? But, as Fatlazyless stated, the reviews regarding WalMart's farm jack are miserable—I wouldn't go near one!

Home Depot will ship one to your house—or HD store—for free! Not surprisingly, farm jacks made in the USA are 2- or 3- times the price—even those made several decades ago. (Check eBay).

Regarding alternatives, this forum had a long discussion in 2007—and again in 2010.

http://winnipesaukee.com/forums/show...ight=farm+jack



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[Broken Glass]

When I adjust the legs on my dock, I use a 5' pipe clamp. With a pipe clamp, you are able to rotate the jaws to any position that you need. I put the crank end of the pipe clamp on the top of the post, and then rotate the other end to go directly under the dock frame. This is done holding the pipe clamp tight against the post. You put a little pressure on it with the crank to hold it in place. Next loosen the bolts, and turn the crank until the frame is level. Re-tighten the bolts and release the clamp. The beauty of this method is the clamp actually pushes the post firmly down, as well as lifting the dock frame. Once the bolts are re-tightened nothing moves when the clamp is released.

[ApS]

A pipe clamp will work for "adjustments", but a farm jack will work even for difficult straightening jobs:



"Adjusting" the rock later is a different matter!



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[jeffk]

This is what I used, a dock winch. This one seems to use cable. Mine used rope.

If you don't have pipe supports, you can use a short length of pipe sturdily bolted to a 4x4 with a base board (to keep it from sinking into the bottom).

I used to used to set one side of my dock section on the bracket of the previously attached section and then winch the other end level. Then I attached the legs.

If the legs settle, you attach the winch, snug up the rope, loosen the clamp holding the section, winch the section level, and retighten the clamp.

I used it for 20 years and it worked great.