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#1 |
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Just a easy fix tip fyi. When I last reroofed my house I noticed a lot of the failed shingles were where the sheathing butted together in between the framing because they warped away from each other. The pic below is not my roof but it shows what we noticed, cracked shingles on a horizontal lines through different shingles which indicated an issue with the sheathing. We needed to install "H" clips but how to install now? Easy. Just drilled a hole big enough to slip the h-clip through and slide over both sheets. Worked really slick and I thought I was pretty clever suggesting this to my roofer.
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#2 |
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To tell the truth after the 1st layer has been on there for 20-30 years I'd rather pull 1st layer off to see what the roof is like. I've removed 1st layers from houses and found problems with the boards/plywood/drip edge etc. Will always pull off the 1st layer. More money yes, easy of mind priceless.
You know when you'll have a problem, right. Dave M |
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#3 | |
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One thing can be said for a roof "go-over" is that, "lost" roofing nails scattered around the drip line won't be found by little feet. Some designs are worse than others:
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![]() ![]() Seventy years later, a new owner added a second floor. The old 3/8ths-inch plywood roofing was carefully removed and stacked nearby. Aside from a few tar stains, all the plywood appeared in pretty good condition. ![]() One factoid I learned from reading-up on plywood construction: in those days, the "glue" that held the plies together was cow's blood. ![]() .
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#4 |
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Most of the lumber bought today is garbage, young wood that rots very quickly.
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#5 | |
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I have seen new roofs replaced after a few years and battles with roofing manufacturers and installers as to who is at fault. A good engineer/project manager will tell you it can be both. Most new construction is all about time and money. Build them cheap and those who don't know will come! I'm helping a new owner, just constructing a large home. Found lots of problems before the sidings and sheet rock goes up! Instead of fixing the problems the reputable 'Lakes Region Premier' builder is threatening to walk away! I feel sorry for the owner, who knows nothing about quality. Lesson to learn here is to work with a reputable project manager from the architectural stage. Even architects may not keep up with the times. Lately I have seen excellent builds from prefab manufacturers such as BensenWoods out of Walpole. The materials are outstanding and the dollars per sq foot is competitive with stick built contractors. I have two customers use Bensonwoods as their contractor. WOW! I have learned a lot about quality materials and constructions. It pays to attend to details! Check out www.bensen
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#6 | |
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I built a new house 10 years ago and I tried to make it as maintenance free as possible. I use quality materials, vinyl siding and plastic for all the exterior trim pieces. I used Therma-tru exterior doors throughout the house and garage. At that time they didn't offer the doors trimmed out in plastic so I put them up as offered. I used 5 quality doors and the trim rotted out on all 5 doors within 5 years. I built a deck on another house about tan years ago and did the railings in fur. They are all rotted out and need replacing. |
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#7 |
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Well can't blame a contractor for using products that are unknowingly problematic, a good example of that is the IKO shingle debacle from the late 90's where everyone was using them, they were at the time considered a premium product but they were fundamentally flawed thus leading to many premature failures and ultimately a class action law suit.
That said having previously worked in construction, roofing over is not best practice by any means and I have not heard of any shingle manufacturer that suggests this is a recommended solution. Can it be done, sure, but I wouldn't for a whole slew of reasons many previously mentioned. The GC I worked for would never do that because his reputation was on the line. Many however don't care will cut corners to hit a price point and obviously don't care about their client's well being. I'd betcha though none would do that on their own roof! Opinions on the subject obviously vary.... Far as those H clips go, I've only seen those used when the rafter spacing is such where they are required to prevent sheathing deflection under load. Far as I know there is little benefit to the spacing they introduce or better put not their intended purpose. |
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#8 | |
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I use a nail between the sheathing for spacing & it has worked fine for the many many roofs I have built. IMO you do need a space for expansion. If the customer wants H clips than I would put them in (waste of money). If you need H clips than IMO something is wrong with the rafter spacing or quality of the sheathing.
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#9 | |
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One Bensonwood home was built in 2007. Extremely low maintenance and the owner is very please with that fact! The roofing and siding materials are fiber cement materials. The Ramblin Vewe farmhouse siding is fiber cement and is now over 40 years old. Untouched and looks great! Customers are extremely satisfied with Lowren windows and doors. Their stormforce series is perfect on the lake or on mountaintops!
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#10 | |
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Do you find that you have better luck at Non-Big-Box type stores? |
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#11 | |
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May be a bit more expensive buying local, on the long run, well worth it! If you insist on 'old growth' wood which are the best, find someone who needs an old barn torn down. The value of old lumber is unbelievable, yet I seen greedy developers and builders tear or burn down these structures as they don't want to be bothered.
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#12 | |
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Drilling a hole just to slide the H clip in doesn't make sense. H clips are spacers that go between each section of the sheathing before nailing it down and will create a space the full length.
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#13 | |
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They are primarily for this: If we place the H-clips at the halfway point (12") between the trusses and/or rafters, the adjoining sheathing panel stiffens considerably. As a result, the fastening of the roof shingles will be easier and the roof will remain flatter and more “in plane” over time (i.e., no sags and/or bowing due to accumulated load). They do also provide a small spacing for expansion if the sheahing gets wet before shingling but that is not what they really are for.It supports abutting plywood between rafters and keeps them from bowing in different directions.You might want to do a little research before you comment on something you seem to have little knowledge of.
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