The Dealership in Laconia

[garysanfran]

When I brought my truck in for the oil change the second time, they told me it needed cleaning. They showed me the varnish buildup. That's when I reminded them they had just done this and charged me $135 and I assume it wasn't done the first time but I was charged for it. The manager looked sheepish like he had just been sheered.

Total mileage on the truck is 112,000. I've never had a throttle body cleaned on any vehicle I've ever owned. I have a Lexus with 170,000. I have the dealership work on it and no one has ever mentioned a throttle body. Didn't even know what it was until the incident with the truck.

[MAXUM]

Originally Posted by garysanfran

When I brought my truck in for the oil change the second time, they told me it needed cleaning. They showed me the varnish buildup. That's when I reminded them they had just done this and charged me $135 and I assume it wasn't done the first time but I was charged for it. The manager looked sheepish like he had just been sheered.

Total mileage on the truck is 112,000. I've never had a throttle body cleaned on any vehicle I've ever owned. I have a Lexus with 170,000. I have the dealership work on it and no one has ever mentioned a throttle body. Didn't even know what it was until the incident with the truck.

That's because your Lexus doesn't have a throttle body EFI system, instead it as multipoint. Depending on the age and model it may be using Direct Injection.

These systems require less maintenance in fact arguably none unless an injector goes bad. This assumes you are using good quality gas.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by MAXUM

That's because your Lexus doesn't have a throttle body EFI system, instead it as multipoint. Depending on the age and model it may be using Direct Injection.

These systems require less maintenance in fact arguably none unless an injector goes bad. This assumes you are using good quality gas.

Even if you have multiport injection you still have a throttle body. The throttle body controls the amount of air being let into the intake to mix with the fuel. They do get dirty but if you're getting it clean more than every 30,000 miles you're probably getting ripped off unless you travel a lot of dirt roads.

[MAXUM]

Originally Posted by Biggd

Even if you have multiport injection you still have a throttle body. The throttle body controls the amount of air being let into the intake to mix with the fuel. They do get dirty but if you're getting it clean more than every 30,000 miles you're probably getting ripped off unless you travel a lot of dirt roads.

Yeah true but that is a completely different setup than throttle body EFI. If proper care is taken to ensure that the PCV system and air filter are kept clean and in good working order that throttle plate and surrounding area should never ever get any significant buildup in them. I've shot mine occasionally if I happen to have it opened up and exposed but rarely if ever have I found mine to be so dirty that it was something I would purposely do on a regular basis. In fact it's not even on any maintenance schedule for any Toyota/Lexus I have ever owned or worked on (and I used to be a technician). Not to say that they can't get dirty or that can cause problems, just rather rare that they do. In fact the only thing I have ever seen cause any problems at all was a dirty MAF sensor which is well before the throttle body and can kick on the MIL/CEL idiot light in the dash.

A lot of these "services" that are sold these days are a total rip off to unaware consumers that sadly don't really know any better.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by MAXUM

Yeah true but that is a completely different setup than throttle body EFI. If proper care is taken to ensure that the PCV system and air filter are kept clean and in good working order that throttle plate and surrounding area should never ever get any significant buildup in them. I've shot mine occasionally if I happen to have it opened up and exposed but rarely if ever have I found mine to be so dirty that it was something I would purposely do on a regular basis. In fact it's not even on any maintenance schedule for any Toyota/Lexus I have ever owned or worked on (and I used to be a technician). Not to say that they can't get dirty or that can cause problems, just rather rare that they do. In fact the only thing I have ever seen cause any problems at all was a dirty MAF sensor which is well before the throttle body and can kick on the MIL/CEL idiot light in the dash.

A lot of these "services" that are sold these days are a total rip off to unaware consumers that sadly don't really know any better.

Some older fords had throttle body EFI and we use to have to clean them quite often because when they got dirty the car would stall at idle. All throttle bodies will get dirty eventually. I've been doing this for 45 years and I've seen it all.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

Some older fords had throttle body EFI and we use to have to clean them quite often because when they got dirty the car would stall at idle. All throttle bodies will get dirty eventually. I've been doing this for 45 years and I've seen it all.

What's the first thing you'd check on a 2012 Ford Escape when the idle drops coming to a stop?!

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

What's the first thing you'd check on a 2012 Ford Escape when the idle drops coming to a stop?!

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The first thing I would do is check the computer for codes or pending codes. If there where no codes I would check the air filter, clean the throttle plate, and put a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner in the tank. There is special throttle plate cleaner and if you have an electronic throttle, no cable, don't force the plate open. Have someone sit inside, turn the key on, don't start the car, and step on the gas pedal. That will open the throttle safely so it can be cleaned.
That's what I would do first.
If there are codes or pending codes then you have to diagnose those first.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

The first thing I would do is check the computer for codes or pending codes. If there where no codes I would check the air filter, clean the throttle plate, and put a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner in the tank. There is special throttle plate cleaner and if you have an electronic throttle, no cable, don't force the plate open. Have someone sit inside, turn the key on, don't start the car, and step on the gas pedal. That will open the throttle safely so it can be cleaned.
That's what I would do first.
If there are codes or pending codes then you have to diagnose those first.

On it! Thanks, friend.

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

On it! Thanks, friend.

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If that doesn't work and there are no codes then the next step would be to have the fuel pressure checked. I don't know how many miles on your car but most electric fuel pumps start to weaken after 100,000 miles.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

If that doesn't work and there are no codes then the next step would be to have the fuel pressure checked. I don't know how many miles on your car but most electric fuel pumps start to weaken after 100,000 miles.

It's got 85k miles and is the most polarizing vehicle I've ever owned--on the one hand, it's comfortable, quiet, and fairly efficient (~22mpg with the 3.0 V6). On the other hand, the rear wheel wells and gate lip are rusting, I've had to replace parts (control arms, rear links, etc.) long before I would have expected (60k), and it appears the only way to keep tires from cupping is to rotate them every 37 miles.

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

It's got 85k miles and is the most polarizing vehicle I've ever owned--on the one hand, it's comfortable, quiet, and fairly efficient (~22mpg with the 3.0 V6). On the other hand, the rear wheel wells and gate lip are rusting, I've had to replace parts (control arms, rear links, etc.) long before I would have expected (60k), and it appears the only way to keep tires from cupping is to rotate them every 37 miles.

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It is what it is, Fords version of the "economy SUV". They are made for pumping out in volume and after 100,000 miles they are fixer uppers.

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

It's got 85k miles . . . the rear wheel wells and gate lip are rusting,

Suggestion:

Read the post about oil undercoating on this forum.

[MAXUM]

Oil undercoating discussed here:

https://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums...ad.php?t=18457

[TheProfessor]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

and it appears the only way to keep tires from cupping is to rotate them every 37 miles.

Was this vehicle ever in any accident?

Was there a vehicle alignment anywhere in this story?

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by TheProfessor

Was this vehicle ever in any accident?

Was there a vehicle alignment anywhere in this story?

No. The 37 mile thing was hyperbole, but they need to be rotated 3500 or less, which is lower than I'm used to.

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[Rusty]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

What's the first thing you'd check on a 2012 Ford Escape when the idle drops coming to a stop?!

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Here is an interesting article about throttle issues with the Ford Escape:
https://www.torquenews.com/106/2005-...hrottle-issues

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Here is an interesting article about throttle issues with the Ford Escape:
https://www.torquenews.com/106/2005-...hrottle-issues

Interesting. I've only noticed a dip in idle when stopping quickly, but I also haven't changed the air filter recently, nor have I done much with additives, etc.

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