Finishing Outdoor Adirondack Chair

MBNeckguy · 03-31-2018, 05:50 PM

Do it like to sail boat guys do it, start with a coat of clear penetrating epoxy, West Systems makes a great one. It should give a bit of fiber crushing resistance to your soft pine) then use a good spar varnish. The CPE should help seal the end grain on the feet as well.

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thinkxingu · 04-04-2022, 09:03 AM

Just an update, as I found this thread looking for advice on my pine wall (that I just posted about):

I ended up using Sherwin Williams porch enamel that, after 4 years of 100% outside use, still looks new. I never ended up putting "sacrificial" legs on because I realized that the chair would last far longer than my attention span...and I was right–I use my swing almost exclusively!

I'm guessing this finish will last another 5+ years without an issue, which is pretty awesome.

SailinAway · 04-08-2022, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I ended up using Sherwin Williams porch enamel that, after 4 years of 100% outside use, still looks new. . . . I'm guessing this finish will last another 5+ years without an issue, which is pretty awesome.

That's good to know. Do you also recommend this for actual porches? Getting tired of repainting my porch. Last time I used Behr, which I "thought" was a decent paint, but it started peeling within the first year.

thinkxingu · 04-08-2022, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SailinAway

That's good to know. Do you also recommend this for actual porches? Getting tired of repainting my porch. Last time I used Behr, which I "thought" was a decent paint, but it started peeling within the first year.

I definitely think it would be a good option. My only concern, though, is that it's a paint that, when it eventually does start to deteriorate, would need work before refinishing. I think?

I'm moving everything I have to vinyl/synthetic products because wood blows to maintain.

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SummerIslander · 04-08-2022, 12:47 PM

From my experience, it's mostly about moisture control. Paint and other deck/dock outdoor finishes will peel off unless the wood is first sealed against moisture movement in-out of the wood on all sides. For years, when doing new construction for docks/decks, I seal all cut parts with cheap polyurethane cut ~25% with paint thinner so it can soak in and penetrate the wood surface, not just sit on top of it. After a week or so (yes, it adds time to the project) I will paint with an oil-based deck paint on top, or in the case of porch rails and such that are not traffic surfaces, exterior latex works fine also.

For post or leg ends in contact with the ground in in the lake, I mix up a bucket of the sealer and let the ends soak in 3-4" for a few hours so it really penetrates the end grain. Needs at least a week for the ends to dry since it soaks up so much.

In the first couple of years, the paint may not adhere in a few small spots, so touch-up annually. But I've found that the paint never peels off wholesale because the moisture in the wood is stable, internal moisture is not forcing up below the paint sitting on top of the wood, rotting the thin surface layer, and causing the paint to lose adhesion. The paint protects the poly sealer from sun/UV so the poly will not deteriorate as it would with a 100% clear poly finish.

For existing structures exposed to the weather, sealing all sides of the wood when dry may hard to do, too much power washing off dirt, waiting to dry that, then crawling under and still unable to get the sealer into any joints.

For pressure-treated wood, it is always important to let it dry out completely in a covered location for a couple of weeks or even months before putting any coating or sealer on it. It almost always comes wet from the lumberyard. If you seal in the moisture, coatings will peel forever.

In theory, a good oil-based deck paint should penetrate and seal the wood surface the same way, but most seem too thick to really penetrate as well as the thinned poly does, and you cannot thin a deck paint. I have not seen any water-based products lasts long on deck or dock surfaces.

SailinAway · 04-08-2022, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SummerIslander

I have not seen any water-based products lasts long on deck or dock surfaces.

I think that's my problem.

03-31-2018, 05:50 PM	#1
MBNeckguy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2017 Posts: 69 Thanks: 156 Thanked 28 Times in 15 Posts	Finishing Outdoor Adirondack Chair Do it like to sail boat guys do it, start with a coat of clear penetrating epoxy, West Systems makes a great one. It should give a bit of fiber crushing resistance to your soft pine) then use a good spar varnish. The CPE should help seal the end grain on the feet as well. Sent from my iPhone using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

04-08-2022, 12:47 PM	#5
SummerIslander Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts	seal before paint on outdoor wood From my experience, it's mostly about moisture control. Paint and other deck/dock outdoor finishes will peel off unless the wood is first sealed against moisture movement in-out of the wood on all sides. For years, when doing new construction for docks/decks, I seal all cut parts with cheap polyurethane cut ~25% with paint thinner so it can soak in and penetrate the wood surface, not just sit on top of it. After a week or so (yes, it adds time to the project) I will paint with an oil-based deck paint on top, or in the case of porch rails and such that are not traffic surfaces, exterior latex works fine also. For post or leg ends in contact with the ground in in the lake, I mix up a bucket of the sealer and let the ends soak in 3-4" for a few hours so it really penetrates the end grain. Needs at least a week for the ends to dry since it soaks up so much. In the first couple of years, the paint may not adhere in a few small spots, so touch-up annually. But I've found that the paint never peels off wholesale because the moisture in the wood is stable, internal moisture is not forcing up below the paint sitting on top of the wood, rotting the thin surface layer, and causing the paint to lose adhesion. The paint protects the poly sealer from sun/UV so the poly will not deteriorate as it would with a 100% clear poly finish. For existing structures exposed to the weather, sealing all sides of the wood when dry may hard to do, too much power washing off dirt, waiting to dry that, then crawling under and still unable to get the sealer into any joints. For pressure-treated wood, it is always important to let it dry out completely in a covered location for a couple of weeks or even months before putting any coating or sealer on it. It almost always comes wet from the lumberyard. If you seal in the moisture, coatings will peel forever. In theory, a good oil-based deck paint should penetrate and seal the wood surface the same way, but most seem too thick to really penetrate as well as the thinned poly does, and you cannot thin a deck paint. I have not seen any water-based products lasts long on deck or dock surfaces.

04-04-2022, 09:03 AM	#2
thinkxingu Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 6,438 Thanks: 1,182 Thanked 2,140 Times in 1,327 Posts	Just an update, as I found this thread looking for advice on my pine wall (that I just posted about): I ended up using Sherwin Williams porch enamel that, after 4 years of 100% outside use, still looks new. I never ended up putting "sacrificial" legs on because I realized that the chair would last far longer than my attention span...and I was right–I use my swing almost exclusively! I'm guessing this finish will last another 5+ years without an issue, which is pretty awesome.