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Old 04-12-2021, 01:25 PM   #1
jazzman
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Does anyone know what size inlet tubing is generally used on the lake? I need a new foot valve and forgot to measure the ID of my tubing.

I spent way to many hours on water this weekend. My tubing did get picked up by the ice and flipped over my neighbors breakwater. First time this has happened in 10 years. I had a really hard time priming, then couldn't build more than 40 PSI (so the pump never shut off), and then lost prime overnight and now I can't get it back.

All of this leads me to believe the foot valve is not working properly (especially the part about losing prime overnight).
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Old 04-12-2021, 01:50 PM   #2
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Default Black plastic pipe diameter

I use 1-1/4 inch (O.D.), which is typical, I believe. So 1” connectors.

The foot valve would certainly be a first thing to check, especially if you don’t hold the prime if you turn the pump off. Possible it’s in the sand? Unclear what you use to hold it off the bottom. And that pipe can get bent and kinked/cracked by the ice and if it got thrown around this year, that could be the issue — had that happen one year. That could also be the culprit for not holding a prime and maybe restricting the flow. Just a thought.

Black pipe is cheap. Might be easier to put in a temporary line until you can more easily check the existing line when the water’s warmer. Been there....
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Old 04-12-2021, 02:26 PM   #3
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Default Well pump

Next time your jet pump goes--consider a well pump. Several posters hewre have that as a solution. No foot valve, no prime, and it's under water so you don't hear it start and stop all the time.
I'm amazed to hear that the ice moved your feed line so drastically. Would it help to move the pick up point out into deeper water, say 10' deep.? This isn't something you want to fix very often in cold water.
BTW, many years ago, I had a brass foot valve fail from corrosion. I replaced with plastic. Then I got the well pump when it was time for major overhaul.
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Old 04-12-2021, 04:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Descant View Post
Next time your jet pump goes--consider a well pump. Several posters hewre have that as a solution. No foot valve, no prime, and it's under water so you don't hear it start and stop all the time.
I'm amazed to hear that the ice moved your feed line so drastically. Would it help to move the pick up point out into deeper water, say 10' deep.? This isn't something you want to fix very often in cold water.
BTW, many years ago, I had a brass foot valve fail from corrosion. I replaced with plastic. Then I got the well pump when it was time for major overhaul.
It would make me very nervous to have a power cord in the water around where people swim, etc. The risk of having an electric shock hazard is not zero. Just my 2cents.
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Old 04-12-2021, 05:06 PM   #5
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I would think it would be a pain to actually have a well pump in the lake. You'd have to pull that out every winter for sure. I have my black pipe inside some 4" PVC that gets through the transition to get below the freeze point. I suspect some of the run further out lost it's sand bags and was floating high enough for the ice to snag it.

My neighbor pulls his out every fall.
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Old 04-12-2021, 07:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzman View Post
I would think it would be a pain to actually have a well pump in the lake. You'd have to pull that out every winter for sure. I have my black pipe inside some 4" PVC that gets through the transition to get below the freeze point. I suspect some of the run further out lost it's sand bags and was floating high enough for the ice to snag it.

My neighbor pulls his out every fall.
Our pump has been in the lake for several years, out in deep water. One drain valve at shore just above the water line. In the spring, close the drain valve, turn the pump power on and watch the water pressure come up. Not much of a pain at all.
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Old 04-12-2021, 09:23 PM   #7
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Default Agreed

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Our pump has been in the lake for several years, out in deep water. One drain valve at shore just above the water line. In the spring, close the drain valve, turn the pump power on and watch the water pressure come up. Not much of a pain at all.
Easy Peasy. For the many of us who have taken this route, we're fine. We relax while the rest of you sweat over prime less pumps. Do a search--there are other threads on this matter.
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Old 04-12-2021, 10:53 PM   #8
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Lightbulb ...And Same Water Heater...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Descant View Post
Easy Peasy. For the many of us who have taken this route, we're fine. We relax while the rest of you sweat over prime less pumps. Do a search--there are other threads on this matter.
In Autumn, I fill 6 one-gallon jugs, and leave them at the location of the highest hose bib.

In Spring, I open the cold water handle in the shower—closing all others. Then, put a ₁/₆ HP utility pump into a bucket, and add the water. Then attach the utility pump (using a spare washing machine supply hose) to that highest hose bib, and plug it in. Unplug it when water appears in the shower. Close the cold—open the hot (to vent). Open the supply to the water heater, and everything's primed, the water heater gets filled, and you're done.

This is the same pump we've used since 1992—30 years!
(And the same priming technique).
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Old 04-13-2021, 11:30 AM   #9
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I've tried that same thing using a submersible pump I put in the lake connected to a hose bib. I was wondering if that really forces water down the pickup hose. It seems like that would become air locked because the foot valve would prevent the water from making it's way out. Of course it has worked like a champ until this year. I think I'm headed back up today with a new foot valve since the temps look ok and it isn't windy.
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Old 04-13-2021, 11:53 AM   #10
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water being turned on this Thursday! will be all set for the summer no matter the dip
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