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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tuftonboro
Posts: 1,254
Thanks: 193
Thanked 335 Times in 243 Posts
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Hopefully your running full scale on the water testing and consulting with people who reading and recommending the proper filtration…..
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SAB1 For This Useful Post: | ||
DotRat (10-14-2021) | ||
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Quote:
This is the way I chose for now. Cheap in the short run and no side effects. But in the long run a little more expensive. I was thinking of this being temporary but it’s working so well right now I might keep it when the house is rebuilt. If I can get a year or more out of a set of filters I think it’s a win. Our last house, just around the corner, had the exact same issue, just iron. It had a very large iron removal tank and softener (typically how it’s done). The salt back wash brine killed a bunch of trees near the house. I switched to potassium. Which is very expensive but much better for the environment. But the water was too soft. Water right now is perfect, not to hard not to soft. Ph is perfect too. It’s not rocket science. I’ve probably tested the iron 20 times (both dissolved and undisolved). But honestly our taste buds / nose are about as accurate. We noticed every glitch with our nose and then confirmed it with a test. We can probably sense the difference between 0.1ppm and 0ppm of iron, basically your nose doesn’t want any iron. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Alton Bay
Posts: 68
Thanks: 24
Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
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Hi Mr. (Ms.?) Mswlogo,
I was wondering what prompted you to install a solenoid valve on your main water line vs installing a 2-pole relay on the electric supply to your pump VFD? I would think a relay would be less expensive & much easier to install; with similar results. Thankyou for your time & effort, J Last edited by root1; 10-13-2021 at 03:30 PM. |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Quote:
I had the valve from my previous house. The shutoff on the previous house was after the water treatment system which could back wash (it was based on gallons and/or time). I may end up with something similar in the end. The current filters are temporary, but they are working pretty good now so who knows. House is supposed to be torn down in Feb if all goes well. The water pump controller is not a simple pressure valve with a storage tank type setup. It's a Continuous Pressure system and goes through a lot of calibration motions when it comes up. So I'm not sure it would be great to be turning that off and on. The well also has a self drain setup. So if there is a small leak it would drain the pipes all the way back to the water table (which is a long ways from the house). I only close the valve to prevent a flood in the house (broken toilet or water heater). The controller can also sense if the well is being over drawn and shut itself down. Also you do not want an "active coil" type relay for something that is normally on. You'd want some sort of BiStable relay (doesn't change state when it loses power (in either state), it stays where you left it when power is restored). The valve is a breeze to install, 20 minutes tops, two hose clamps. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mswlogo For This Useful Post: | ||
root1 (10-14-2021) | ||
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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BTW this is how my filters are looking. Water flows from right to left.
The filter on the right is the 1 micron sediment filter. It takes out 99% of the undissolved iron (all my iron is undissolved). Cheap filter does most of the work. The center filter is the Iron Filter (expensive). The left filter is a 0.5 micron carbon (expensive) I moved the clear filter casing to the last filter, rather than the first. Since the first filter is hit will the bulk of the iron it fogged the glass up and you could not see anything after a couple weeks. So the glass was useless on the first stage. Moving it to the last stage filter I could monitor how much iron is getting to the last filter. I've run ~6,000 gallons through and you can see there is no sign of iron. And fairly clean water is hitting the "polishing" filter. Note: The "Pro's" don't tell you if the iron is dissolved or undissolved iron. You have a lot more options dealing undissolved iron vs dissolved. I bet most wells are exactly like mine in this area. My guess is the expensive filters will last me 2-3 years.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Someone privately messages me that he (jokingly) thought it would be easier to pickup a gallon of water at the local grocery store than go to the bother I have.
I thought it would be more fun to share my response. We drive by a spring that people come from all over to fill their jugs. It's less than 2 miles from us. It was a royal pain in the ass. The worst of it was waiting for the person in front of you filling 10 one gallon jugs. When we were lugging water, we used about 5 gallons every 2 days. That's just the two of us (and two small dogs). That was for drinking, cooking and brushing our teeth. That would come to about $1200 year and 900 plastic bottles from the grocery store. You don't want any iron in your pipes, period. You don't want to brush your teeth with it, flush with it, wash cloths with it. And most of all not take a shower in it. Even at 1ppm it's just not as refreshing. It's tolerable, just a real nusance. Never mind drinking it, which is perfectly safe. The primary purpose of the filters is to remove the Iron. The water is near perfect accept for Iron. pH is like 7.2 and hardness is low. Part of the reason I didn't want reverse osmosis or a water softener because it would screw that up. The expensive filters I'm using are $100 each. And the cheap filters are $5 each. My guess is I'll use about 3 cheap filters a year and 1 each of the expensive filters every 2 years. We also have an ultra ultra filter under the kitchen sink that is $40 for 19,000 gallons. 6 * $5 + 2 * $100 + $40 to filter about 40,000 gallons. That's less than 1 penny per gallon. It would probably cost more for salt in a water softener (which is bad for the lakes BTW). |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Alton Bay
Posts: 68
Thanks: 24
Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
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Hello Mr. Mswlogo,
Thankyou for the reply. I did neglect to take into account the VFD's boot routine. It surely would not appreciate being turned off/on like the family toaster. Considering what these things cost, I certainly don't want to tempt fate. So, I will go the valve route. Red Hat / ASCO is the valve for me; proven reliability and parts available anywhere. J
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Alton Bay
Posts: 68
Thanks: 24
Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
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I can just imagine, on some dark & stormy night when the power has failed at around 2am, an unknowing person gets out of bed to discreetly use the toilet without bothering to turn the lights on; flushes the toilet and .... SUCK SSSHHHHhhhh ...... not for the faint-of-heart! lol!
![]() Hopefully, the system has a functioning check valve; maybe two; to prevent such an occurence! |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Quote:
I think the only check valve is down at the pump. There is no check valve at the house, by design. It’s a 3 season cottage. So they set it up that way to protect anything from freezing. Line up near house is not that deep due to ledge. It very quickly drains to a safe state. Once the new house is in I might have that self draining valve taken out. It’s mounted on the “pitless” adapter 16ft or so down. So my remote valve IS my check valve
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
Thanks: 196
Thanked 224 Times in 143 Posts
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Well it’s time for a do over on the water treatment.
Filters worked on the cottage but I want something with lower maintenance for the new house. I thought I had a lot of undissolved iron because the sediment filter took out so much. After some discussion with some folks they suspect it’s oxidizing in the sediment filter. Undissolved iron is orange colored water. Mine is clear. Anyway I learned a lot since. And ordered this filter. https://www.cwts.ca/products/whole-h...x-filter-media I’m so glad I got the “constant pressure” well pump because one requirement of this filter (media) is a fairly high backwash rate of 13 gpm. It’s because the media is on the heavy side. Choosing the right filter (media) was more complicated than I expected. PH matters, water temp matters, backwash requirements and more. Also the company I bought from recommended not putting any sediment filter in front. As that loads up, your flow rate goes down. If you drop below the requirement for the media in the filter, it’s ruined. This site is awesome to get help on all sorts of DIY plumbing, heating etc. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 583
Thanks: 46
Thanked 110 Times in 81 Posts
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Water softeners add salt to the water. Better, is a water conditioner. Magnetic water conditioners are applied to the pipe. The chemical makeup of the substance is changed, no salt added.
____________________________________ I am a retired workaholic and continuing aquaholic |
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