Dock stain maintenance

J9lake · 09-01-2021, 09:06 PM

Thanks all. I’m unsure of what was used or who did the work. We bought the house this way. Can try to find out. Message received about taking care of chemicals around the lake - priority #1

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John Mercier · 09-01-2021, 10:01 PM

Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.

Descant · 09-01-2021, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.

The OP has not responded. That tells me he applied the first coat of stain that he now wants to remove. As noted earlier, probably on fresh PT, and over the water. If that's wrong, he should post details and let us help. There's a lot of expertise here, n on-critical, but we all need to know what the real situation is.

chasedawg · 09-02-2021, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.

John Mercier.... we have a 30 year oil PT Pine deck. Our deck was stained 4 years ago with two coats undercoat and two top coats with Cabot latex solid stain. Last year it started to peel. This year it is a mess. Flaking everywhere. We sanded it all off with a rental edger. Down to bare wood. Tough work. But got 98% off the pine boards. Wood is in great shape. We plan on using Storm semi transparent oil stain with two coats. Are we doing the right thing? What would you do?
We appreciate your expertise advise?

SAB1 · 09-02-2021, 02:55 PM

https://maddogprimer.com/

Hit the bare PT with this stuff. Mad Dog Dura Prime Stabilizing Bonding primer.

Well worth the $

John Mercier · 09-02-2021, 06:19 PM

Latex would need to be stripped... so you either had to sand or chemically strip.
Any residual latex will create a barrier for the oil to sink in, so get off as much as you can.

Oil should be a single coat.
Some cans will have instructions for maintenance coats... but those are not done right off. It will be future coat instructions usually done yearly based on water not beading on the surface. Should a water test bead, you skip the maintenance coat application until it fails the test. When it beads, there is nowhere for the oil to sink into.

Always run the applicator the entire length of a board after application to avoid lap marks, and never let the stain pool... it will get sticky and never dry.

Oil, unlike latex, will not need to be stripped or sanded off for many years.
It will only require it as the deck boards become uneven (sanding) or dark due to inactive mold spores being trapped to the point that the deck looks ''dirty'' (sand or strip).

Be careful with used rags and applicators, as oil - especially penetrating oils - dispose of them as stated on the can.

Descant · 09-02-2021, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Latex would need to be stripped... so you either had to sand or chemically strip.
Any residual latex will create a barrier for the oil to sink in, so get off as much as you can.

Oil should be a single coat.
Some cans will have instructions for maintenance coats... but those are not done right off. It will be future coat instructions usually done yearly based on water not beading on the surface. Should a water test bead, you skip the maintenance coat application until it fails the test. When it beads, there is nowhere for the oil to sink into.

Always run the applicator the entire length of a board after application to avoid lap marks, and never let the stain pool... it will get sticky and never dry.

Oil, unlike latex, will not need to be stripped or sanded off for many years.
It will only require it as the deck boards become uneven (sanding) or dark due to inactive mold spores being trapped to the point that the deck looks ''dirty'' (sand or strip).

Be careful with used rags and applicators, as oil - especially penetrating oils - dispose of them as stated on the can.

Oh NO! You have to read the instructions???

John Mercier · 09-02-2021, 10:34 PM

Warranties tend to be very specific... as to temperature applied, surface preparation, and time to cure before rainfall... but I notice that many miss the disposal aspects after the job is considered complete.

We used to sell Penofin. I decided that we would care the Red Label Ultra... it was a superior product that I used myself for as long as I could get it.

But it was very specific in the disposal of all waste rags/product. They were to be moistened and resealed in an empty metal can before disposal.
They could ignite.

09-01-2021, 09:06 PM	#1
J9lake Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 9 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks all. I’m unsure of what was used or who did the work. We bought the house this way. Can try to find out. Message received about taking care of chemicals around the lake - priority #1 Sent from my iPhone using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

09-01-2021, 10:01 PM	#2
John Mercier Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2021 Posts: 3,578 Thanks: 3 Thanked 637 Times in 524 Posts	Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue? That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.

09-02-2021, 02:55 PM	#5
SAB1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Tuftonboro Posts: 1,254 Thanks: 193 Thanked 335 Times in 243 Posts	https://maddogprimer.com/ Hit the bare PT with this stuff. Mad Dog Dura Prime Stabilizing Bonding primer. Well worth the $

09-02-2021, 06:19 PM	#6
John Mercier Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2021 Posts: 3,578 Thanks: 3 Thanked 637 Times in 524 Posts	Latex would need to be stripped... so you either had to sand or chemically strip. Any residual latex will create a barrier for the oil to sink in, so get off as much as you can. Oil should be a single coat. Some cans will have instructions for maintenance coats... but those are not done right off. It will be future coat instructions usually done yearly based on water not beading on the surface. Should a water test bead, you skip the maintenance coat application until it fails the test. When it beads, there is nowhere for the oil to sink into. Always run the applicator the entire length of a board after application to avoid lap marks, and never let the stain pool... it will get sticky and never dry. Oil, unlike latex, will not need to be stripped or sanded off for many years. It will only require it as the deck boards become uneven (sanding) or dark due to inactive mold spores being trapped to the point that the deck looks ''dirty'' (sand or strip). Be careful with used rags and applicators, as oil - especially penetrating oils - dispose of them as stated on the can.

The Following User Says Thank You to John Mercier For This Useful Post:
chasedawg (09-02-2021)

09-02-2021, 10:34 PM	#8
John Mercier Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2021 Posts: 3,578 Thanks: 3 Thanked 637 Times in 524 Posts	Warranties tend to be very specific... as to temperature applied, surface preparation, and time to cure before rainfall... but I notice that many miss the disposal aspects after the job is considered complete. We used to sell Penofin. I decided that we would care the Red Label Ultra... it was a superior product that I used myself for as long as I could get it. But it was very specific in the disposal of all waste rags/product. They were to be moistened and resealed in an empty metal can before disposal. They could ignite.