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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
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Wouldn't that be based on how many miles you drive a year and the fuel mileage your comparing too?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Yes--definitely. A person should compare a Tesla S to a high powered full size sedan, or the upcoming Ford Lightning to the F-150. Also depends on your personal cost of electricity and gasoline. But in most any case, I think you're going to get the cost of the charger back long before you sell the car
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#3 |
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Last auto I drove 12 years... just under 78,000 miles. Combined efficiency was around 35 mpg on an annualized basis; purchased for $10,800.
Current auto... six and a half years old... just under 45,000 miles, combined efficiency is around 40 (got as low as 37 mpg this winter with defrosting, but will hit 44 mpg during the summer)... purchased for $11,800. I don't think the math quite works for me. |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Quote:
Which would you rather be in with your family. Tesla Model X or Your 12 year old $11k car? We all make our choices. I don’t buy Tesla’s to just save gas, but that’s a nice perk. One time the car swerved suddenly way away from the shoulder. Man in dark clothes walking in the road dark drizzle night no road lights. On coming car had just turned off my auto high beams. I never saw him until it would have been to late. The car saw him before I did and drove around him. My guess is my mirror would have hit him. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
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Both the old and new had good side impact ratings.
You have to remember... after everything/most things go electric... the only way to really gain ground will be for the Tesla to lose some weight. |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 127
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Quote:
Tesla is like an extended beta program. I like their spirit and innovation—-I even like Elon Musk. But the cars are expensive for what they are and the build/interior quality is subpar. Most buy Tesla to make a statement—and that is fine—but nobody is saving any real, “end game” money by doing it. Many (not saying all) owners fool themselves to justify the purchase. The depreciation is sharp (perhaps less so as of recent—but that is unnatural), the purchase price is considerably higher than a gasoline powered car with the same features, the maintenance costs are steep. The tech just isn’t quite there yet. It is in no way cheaper to own a Tesla vs an equivalent with internal combustion. I’ll eventually own an EV: The F150 Lightning is starting to show more reasonable costs, but I’m not paying a $25k premium for a Tesla vs an internal combustion car of the same size/features to save $5K in fuel… |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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For anyone thinking solar, this is the quote I received to add a 12kw DC, 9.8KW AC system to my new barn. A 10kw AC system is the largest residential system they allow in Massachusetts. This includes net metering, enrolling in the new SRec program (not nearly as lucrative as the old program), and the federal tax credit which is 26% right now. The system would produce 101% of my current usage, less once I get the barn/workshop online.
This is for me to purchase it outright, no financing. Obviously financing it with interest is going to change your payback terms, as will great electric usage. The quickest payback is clearly purchasing outright, but the majority of people don't have a cool 44K to outlay to make that purchase. This company is local and has been in business for something like 15 years now, not one of the fly by night, disappear in a year companies, and is th eonly way I'd consider putting these on my house. I deal with plenty of solar companies in my line of work and have been burned by even the national guys, Solar City, Sunrun, and have no interest in supporting them. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Steamboat Springs - Bear Island
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I'm getting a 12kW system installed at a cost of about $2.75/watt. I was very happy with that cost compared to other costs in the area.
The one huge thing with solar is you need to educate yourself. Solar installers possess the knowledge so they will suggest a system (or panels, or a specific invertor) that may or may not be what you want. Panel costs vary widely as does quality and efficiency at the end of the panels life (warranty) about 25 years. Panels do degrade in efficiency to the 80%s at the end of their life. Payback numbers I've seen are generally between 8-12 years depending on a variety of assumptions (these assumptions are almost always skewed in the installers behalf so again,) buyer beware. On average, according to Solar Reviews - the average cost to install a system in New Hampshire is about $2.83/w. https://www.solarreviews.com/solar-panel-cost Get a couple opinions and quotes if you can. |
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#9 | |
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It’s frightening how much to spend on electricity over 20-25 years. It’s a similar type quote I got from MassRenewables. Keep in mind. You ideally want to over size by 10-20% to cover NetMetering losses (20% loss on round trip to grid and back). If you are 101% you’ll end up paying 10-20%. My ROI was quicker (6 years or so) with the better SRECs. I get back like $2-3K a year (at the start). But only for 10 years. How did you get 12kw? Because it’s commercial? Is there a residential limit in NH too? I’d like to get 12kw in NH. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Steamboat Springs - Bear Island
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12 KW install was not in NH, we are out west and the limit here is closer to 25kW.
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
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With 27k miles on it now, they are giving $94K (plus tax) in trade !!! I guess you’d call that “less so”. Don’t kid yourself, Ford is good at stripping it down to the bone to get a low base model price to reel you in. You think the interior of the $40K base will be better than a Tesla? Does that even include a radio? Don’t forget dealer mark up BS. A nicely packaged Lighting with a decent battery will be $70K+, fully loaded is $90K+ The Cybertruck will be more for the dollar. Guaranteed. Don’t forget with Ford, the middle man (dealer) gets $10K of that. And another $10K in advertising. Ever seen a Tesla ad? I think interiors of Tesla’s are something like a Honda Accord or something. With all the glass (which can make cabin louder) and lack of knobs and buttons it can sometimes feel cheaper. It really isn’t. It’s not a Porsche inside but it’s not cheaply made. QA issues can also make it feel cheap when a plastic trim piece pops out. But they are built like a tank. The S/X is entirely aluminum. Crash tests show they are not cheaply built. I think people are saving real Money on a Model 3 if they keep them long enough. Ford recognized the dealership model is dumb and copying Tesla on that too. Folks are not buying it for a statement. People that don’t know what it’s like to own one think that. They are just an absolute blast to own. Even with the hiccups, QA issues, ordering issues, high price tags people can’t get enough of them. |
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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Quote:
Conjecture and opinions. I stand by my own. Buy what works for you. |
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tuftonboro and Sudbury, MA
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I drove BMWs prior to my Tesla. I agree that Tesla is spartan, definitely not as luxe as BMW, Audi, Volvo. if i scored my Tesla on 10 or twenty criteria of luxury, it would be "overpriced" compared to the others. But the smoothness, quickness, and silence of Tesla make them WAY more luxurious than those other brands in total. I get into a friend's beautiful Audi, and it feels kind of rough. You're dead wrong on depreciation and cost of maintenance. On depreciation, you need to subtract the $7500 rebate on the original purchase to do the math properly. On maintenance, Teslas have almost zero maintenance--no oil changes, tune ups, etc. I'm at my 5th anniversary this month, and all I've done is buy one set of tires. When you call Tesla and ask to come in for an "annual service", they say, "why bother...?". For me, the total cost is approximately the same as I would spend spend on an internal combustion car. And as i noted in another post, VW and others are now making much less expensive EVs, so this is not restricted only to those who buy high end cars. As for "making a statement" or needing to "justify" something, these are cheap shots, and I really have little interest in either. I got my car because it's good for the environment and also much more fun to drive than a BMW. Ford Lightning will be awesome when it comes out. Torque will be WAY better than F-150, and the ability to use the batteries to power stuff on the go or to power your home during a blackout will be great |
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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I wouldn’t either. |
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granitebox (03-12-2022) | ||
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#16 |
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I didn't find driving fun in a brand new convertible sports car either.
I find driving to be tedious. Something I must do rather than desire to. |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Personally you couldn’t pay me to own a convertible in New England. About all they are good for is a July 4th parade. Or around the corner for fish and chips. Will you take it Sun Fried, Wind blown, Ears Blown or Freezing? I feel like I’m relaxing in the living room with the stereo going and the car driving itself. |
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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This is a meaningless challenge , an attack challenge, and I’m going to side with John here. He was talking about financial merits and value. You can discuss these without “enjoying” driving. I’m a car guy and love driving. He doesn’t. Ok, we don’t all have to like the same thing.. |
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#19 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2021
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Amory wasn't thinking of self-driving when he worked on the hypercar... just much more efficient. Gary Reysa, a retired Boeing engineer, was doing more of the work in solar. He was working on using hydrogen as a storage medium. So it was a basic presumption that hydrogen would be used to power the hypercar. |
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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When folks are comparing Tesla’s they are usually comparing nicer cars like Audi’s, BMW’s, MB and if it’s worth switching to a Tesla. Or even a nice Hybrid. Not a 12 year old tin can. If driving cars isn’t important at all you could make a monetary argument it’s cheaper to go with 12 year tin can vs any car let a alone a Tesla. It’s John turning yet another discussion into a stupid one. Yes, it’s cheaper to drive old cheap cars. You could argue it’s cheaper to not own a car and just use Uber too. Why did he buy a new convertible sports car if he hates driving? I don’t buy any of his BS, I think he’s bored and just trying to stir things up. What challenge? You making up more stuff in your head of how others are thinking again? |
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#21 |
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But that is where it must go if it is to survive...
Life cycle and value. I do not have the 12 year old car... it was given to someone that drove it another 4 years. Current auto is 2016. I would be comparing a new car to a new car in the same brand... Tesla isn't on my list. It would be an Ioniq against an Accent. I don't spend enough time in a vehicle to make it worth more than basic transportation. But the concept should be the same... |
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#22 | |
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Though I agree with msw on the math and this forum not being representative of America, I agree with you and Think on the general point that EVs need to be for everybody. Hyundai is on the right track
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#23 | |
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I've pointed out a few times that your financial assumptions aren't reality for the sizable majority of America. Yes, Teslas/EVs have great tech, may be fun to drive, and may, if all things come together, be financially and ecologically efficient. But for $96k, the price of your Tesla SUV, I could buy two 4Runners and 20+ years of service. Or three Subarus and 30+ years of service... It's no different than the guy who chose two rolls of toilet paper yesterday rather than the multi-pack that saves 25% and comes more easily packaged: to buy into solar or EVs usually requires money people don't have. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk |
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#24 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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But if these depreciations hold (which they probably won’t) I could end up spending as much as you did on 2 forerunners. Depreciation is about 2% over the last 2.5 years. Maybe a 4Runner is too. Just as you can’t compare a civic to and say an Audi. You can’t compare a 4Runner to a Model X. I could make the same argument it’s dumb to buy a 4Runner when you can get a Subaru. Someone on the Tesla Forum that lives in an RV park and owns a golf cart was trying to sort out charging. He does like 10 miles a week (mostly in his golf cart). No a Tesla is a complete loss. He will lose 10 miles a week with the car just sitting there. We are in a thread about gas prices. If you don’t drive much, who cares. We should be discussing similar cars and the trade off of EV vs Gas. Not cheap cars vs expensive ones. Or your needs of driving a lot or a little. Not really interested in discussing that. But John likes to twist topics. That said , you can’t compare a Tesla to anything else. It’s a blazing hot day, we drive by this place that looks good to eat. But we have the dogs with us. No problem put it doggy mode. I’m in the garage working on my app, or waiting for my wife at the hospital. Turn the car on and watch a movie. No fumes nothing. It’s so nice having a car that does not spew poisonous gases. It’s late, I’m tired, I made a bad judgement call and I’m driving. The car swerves to avoid a pedestrian. I could go on and on. It’s a one year waiting list to get a Model X. And it’s not due to parts shortages. Stuck in traffic, turn on Biohazard mode. People camp in them. By putting them in Camp mode. Acceleration is the last reason I get Tesla an I leave in Chill mode 99% of the time. What are the chances of a Roll over in 4Runner vs a Model X? That alone is worth it to me and you can’t put a price on it. |
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#25 | |
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1. That, on a thread about fuel costs, the answer isn't simply electric vehicles as there's much more to the equation than just fuel. 2. The "offhand" way people talk about buying EVs, solar, and other high-initial-cost systems that just isn't realistic for much/most of America. I'd love a vehicle I don't have to put fuel in, but it would need to be overall cost effective, have a low initial buy-in, and be able to do what I need it to do beyond just driving. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk |
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#26 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Keep in mind, that this forum isn’t average America ![]() Many here have two homes (one on the lake). Many have expensive boats. Many have a home. Many have multiple expensive cars. So why do we keep bringing up folks that can’t afford Solar? I think many are misinformed about Solar, incentives and EV’s. And as you said there are other perks going with EV besides fuel. One other thing I’d like to mention that is on topic. Conserving: Once I got Solar, I had them add a consumption meter as well. That was a good move, albeit a bit over priced. Once you could visually see what you produced and consumed it became a game. What’s using all the power? After digging around I found a lot of waste. My high end active speakers were using 20 watts each on standby. Do the math 9 speakers * 20 watts * 24 hrs * 365 days = 1.57 mega watts/year That’s 20% of my entire Solar Production !! I put a smart remote in that now powers them down when not used. Also found a heater that runs 24/7 in my brand new “high efficiency” AC system. It was like 80 watts. Now I flip the breaker off in Winter. I need to make sure I wait a few days after I turn breaker on before I run A/C. That savings right there was enough to cover all my EV charging. I found many more with diminishing returns. But I probably cut my electricity use in half. Conservation on EV: Don’t precondition. So many people think they save fuel because the car will run full regen in winter if they preheat the battery. It will cost more to heat the battery than regen will save. Some say switch to scheduled charging in the morning. That wastes fuel too. Car will heat the battery before it charges. You are better off charging when you get home with a warm battery. Don’t use auto precondition when navigating to supercharger. It will save time charging. But it will net cost you. I don’t care because supercharging is free. But it’s still a waste of fuel to save time. Get an attached insulated garage. That’s yet another requirement for EV I’d recommend in snow country. Not required, but really really nice to have. Battery does not get as cold and you don’t need to use fuel to melt Ice and snow. All cars: Make sure your tire pressure is up. I tended to run a few pounds above door tag on my ICE cars. Especially in winter. I always did long drives at night so my tires never get that hot (and pressure to high). This can save a LOT on fuel. I don’t do that on EV’s. Why? because Elon already knows that trick and they run the tires on the high side. Tires still lasted great. Keep your distance with cars in front of you so you can coast to slower your speed rather than use brakes. Every time you hit the brakes you’re wasting fuel. It’s also safer and more relaxing. One thing I don’t like about Auto Pilot is it follows to close. You don’t need to warm up ICE, just suck it up, get in and go. Doable with a garage. |
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#27 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2021
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#28 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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If you took these as “cheap shots”, that’s your own perception. I said it is exactly why SOME people buy them. I don’t recall specifically saying or implying that was why YOU bought one. |
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#29 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 660
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