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Old 08-03-2022, 07:16 AM   #1
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I think you've over-estimated the power draw of your router by a factor of 10. Unless the router is also serving as a hotplate there is no way it is using 120Watts.
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Old 08-03-2022, 07:45 AM   #2
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I think you've over-estimated the power draw of your router by a factor of 10. Unless the router is also serving as a hotplate there is no way it is using 120Watts.
The specs are here: https://us.comtrend.com/ar-5381u/

If I'm reading it right it says 1 amp, which would be 120 watts?
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Old 08-03-2022, 08:14 AM   #3
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The specs are here: https://us.comtrend.com/ar-5381u/

If I'm reading it right it says 1 amp, which would be 120 watts?

It's 1A at the 12VDC output from the power supply, so 12 watts. And even that is more likely a peak value and not a constant value, realistically the average power consumption of it is likely under 10 watts. Your calculation then was essentially a yearly operating cost, not a monthly one.
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:03 AM   #4
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I guess I must be in the minority. Yes I am concerned about the rate hikes but am not obsessing about it to the point I am concerned with how much my router draws.

We are finishing up a reno and moving to Gilford. Our "new to us" home will have all led lighting and Samsung split systems with LP boiler backup (hot water off the boiler). We also have 2 pellet stoves, 2 fireplaces and are looking at putting in between 50-80 400W solar panels which should offset our entire usage. We have a huge roof system with multiple planes, so covering them in solar will help.

We run our AC hard in the summer. I am a big guy and like to be cool. Our electric bill in our existing, newer home that we are leaving runs between $300-$450 depending on the season. That is with NG heat/hw, 2 mini splits, a hot tub and every light in the place always on. We do a ton of laundry, unless we are at the lake there is laundry running every day with 5 of us in the home.
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:57 AM   #5
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I guess I must be in the minority. Yes I am concerned about the rate hikes but am not obsessing about it to the point I am concerned with how much my router draws.

We are finishing up a reno and moving to Gilford. Our "new to us" home will have all led lighting and Samsung split systems with LP boiler backup (hot water off the boiler). We also have 2 pellet stoves, 2 fireplaces and are looking at putting in between 50-80 400W solar panels which should offset our entire usage. We have a huge roof system with multiple planes, so covering them in solar will help.

We run our AC hard in the summer. I am a big guy and like to be cool. Our electric bill in our existing, newer home that we are leaving runs between $300-$450 depending on the season. That is with NG heat/hw, 2 mini splits, a hot tub and every light in the place always on. We do a ton of laundry, unless we are at the lake there is laundry running every day with 5 of us in the home.
Sounds awesome, codeman! I hope you'll report back in a few months or a year on the minisplits and solar. Congrats on the new house
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:32 AM   #6
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It's 1A at the 12VDC output from the power supply, so 12 watts. And even that is more likely a peak value and not a constant value, realistically the average power consumption of it is likely under 10 watts. Your calculation then was essentially a yearly operating cost, not a monthly one.
Thank you very much for clarifying this! I hope there are no similar errors on my list?
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:35 AM   #7
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I would still like to know how to estimate my new monthly Eversource cost for the top items on my list. If I know the kWh per month of an appliance, how can I calculate the cost?
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:45 AM   #8
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I would still like to know how to estimate my new monthly Eversource cost for the top items on my list. If I know the kWh per month of an appliance, how can I calculate the cost?
Multiply your monthly estimated usage by the fully-loaded costs. By fully-loaded, I mean taxes, other fees, etc. Your stated KwH rate for electricity supply is not the full cost of your electric service.

For example, if you estimate 400 KwH of electricity usage in a month, and your fully-loaded KwH supply charge comes out to $0.22 per Kwh then your estimated bill would be 400 * $0.22 = $88.

Conversely, if you eliminate 10 KwH of usage through various reductions, then you can estimate the savings the same way, 10 * $0.22 = $2.20 in savings.
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Old 08-03-2022, 12:42 PM   #9
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Multiply your monthly estimated usage by the fully-loaded costs. By fully-loaded, I mean taxes, other fees, etc. Your stated KwH rate for electricity supply is not the full cost of your electric service.

For example, if you estimate 400 KwH of electricity usage in a month, and your fully-loaded KwH supply charge comes out to $0.22 per Kwh then your estimated bill would be 400 * $0.22 = $88.

Conversely, if you eliminate 10 KwH of usage through various reductions, then you can estimate the savings the same way, 10 * $0.22 = $2.20 in savings.
But . . . we don't have the new Eversource rates yet.
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Old 08-03-2022, 12:46 PM   #10
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But . . . we don't have the new Eversource rates yet.
I thought that was published as $0.22 for supply, but maybe I'm mistaken.


Some of the fees are not increasing, just the supply rate. It sounds like the net effect will be about a 50% increase in your overall utility bill for an average user.
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Old 08-03-2022, 01:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by brk-lnt View Post
I thought that was published as $0.22 for supply, but maybe I'm mistaken.


Some of the fees are not increasing, just the supply rate. It sounds like the net effect will be about a 50% increase in your overall utility bill for an average user.
$.22566 is the current Eversource SUPPLY rate, up from $.11xx.

For someone using 450kwh/mth., the bill would go up ~$52.

If I didn't change to a new supplier, my highest bill last year would have been something like $250 more.

With the new supplier, that will be more like $100 more, which is better than the alternative but still blows.

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Old 08-03-2022, 03:45 PM   #12
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$.22566 is the current Eversource SUPPLY rate, up from $.11xx.
Thanks for that information and to brk-Int for his explanation. I think I have this figured out, IF the supply charge is the only rate that changes. Here's my last bill, when I used air conditioning 24 hours a day:

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Does that look about right? That's very helpful. My actual usage on my July bill was 260 kWh less than my chart estimated.
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Old 08-03-2022, 04:01 PM   #13
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Thanks for that information and to brk-Int for his explanation. I think I have this figured out, IF the supply charge is the only rate that changes. Here's my last bill, when I used air conditioning 24 hours a day:

Attachment 17703

Does that look about right? That's very helpful. My actual usage on my July bill was 260 kWh less than my chart estimated.
Our electric bill is IDENTICAL to yours—we used 456kwh from 6/16-7/18.

We're in a 2100 ft² split built in the late 1970's.

Central air, dehumidifier, electric stove, electric dryer, etc. AC set at 72° for all but while away, which was 75° and water heater set to 120°.

The three things I'm currently trying (as I type this by the lake): dehumidifier set to 60 instead of ~45, water heater set to vacation mode while away, AC set to 85 while away.

The killer for us is electric baseboard, but we've never changed for a ton of reasons. Though I think we can minimize/negate the price increases, I may look more into heating this next year.

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Old 08-03-2022, 04:23 PM   #14
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Think, that's interesting, thanks for the comparison. My house is something like 1400 square feet and I'm one person so I should be doing a lot better than you. BUT (confession) I set the AC to 64 so it's basically running all the time. On the other hand, in the winter I set the boiler to 60.

I think 60% could be OK for your humidity. It's not radically over the normal 50%.

If you have time maybe you can PM me about changing your electric supplier.
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Old 08-03-2022, 04:47 PM   #15
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Think, that's interesting, thanks for the comparison. My house is something like 1400 square feet and I'm one person so I should be doing a lot better than you. BUT (confession) I set the AC to 64 so it's basically running all the time. On the other hand, in the winter I set the boiler to 60.

I think 60% could be OK for your humidity. It's not radically over the normal 50%.

If you have time maybe you can PM me about changing your electric supplier.
As mentioned, I think the dehumidifier's sensor may be inaccurate, so 60° could potentially be closer to 50 or even lower. I'll know as soon as I walk in after this short vacation!

In terms of changing suppliers, I signed up with Direct Energy yesterday for $.16/kWh which will cut the increase in half.

I researched a bunch of suppliers and they were the best price—I did see in a place or two that customer service might not be perfect, but I'm not sure what that means in this case as, supposedly, I'll still work directly through Eversource.

I signed for 36 months, but the current offers don't have early cancellation limitations.

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Old 08-03-2022, 04:49 PM   #16
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Think, that's interesting, thanks for the comparison. My house is something like 1400 square feet and I'm one person so I should be doing a lot better than you. BUT (confession) I set the AC to 64 so it's basically running all the time. On the other hand, in the winter I set the boiler to 60.

I think 60% could be OK for your humidity. It's not radically over the normal 50%.

If you have time maybe you can PM me about changing your electric supplier.
64 is a mighty big workload for your AC--it's not a linear relationship. If you could see your way to 68 or even 66, that might be more savings than the rest of the suggestions combined
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Old 08-03-2022, 05:01 PM   #17
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Default Add a fan

SailinAway, my sister in law lived in FL for several years. She kept the AC at 76-78° but would drop it down to around 70. We went shopping once day and I bought her an oscillating fan on a stand. Used it on low only thermostat back up to 75 or so. Fan moved the air around and the AC took ot most of the humidity.

No AC at my house now. If it's humid, I put my fan in the opening on low at night and usually manage to get a good night's sleep.

Keep the AC set high and just use a fan to move the air.

Dave

PS Wintertime: sweaters/ swearshirts and a lap blanket help with the heat.
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Old 08-03-2022, 07:04 PM   #18
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SailinAway, my sister in law lived in FL for several years. She kept the AC at 76-78° but would drop it down to around 70. We went shopping once day and I bought her an oscillating fan on a stand. Used it on low only thermostat back up to 75 or so. Fan moved the air around and the AC took ot most of the humidity.

No AC at my house now. If it's humid, I put my fan in the opening on low at night and usually manage to get a good night's sleep.

Keep the AC set high and just use a fan to move the air.

Dave

PS Wintertime: sweaters/ swearshirts and a lap blanket help with the heat.
Dave, you're right about this. I did an experiment last week and slept 3 nights without the AC and just used a tiny fan on the nightstand. I was surprised that I survived the night. A fan really does make a big difference, even a small one.

Now fellas, stop telling me to put on a sweater. I can figure that out!
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Old 08-03-2022, 07:29 PM   #19
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Dave, you're right about this. I did an experiment last week and slept 3 nights without the AC and just used a tiny fan on the nightstand. I was surprised that I survived the night. A fan really does make a big difference, even a small one.

Now fellas, stop telling me to put on a sweater. I can figure that out!
I'm qualified to tell you to put on a sweater. My wife would wear a sweater in an oven set on broil.

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Old 08-04-2022, 09:57 AM   #20
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Default Exhaust fan

Our camp has no AC and no insulation, so on hot days the temperature is the same inside and out. We have a large window fan installed in the living room. At night, I close all the windows except the one in the bedroom and in the bathroom and set the window fan on exhaust. It pulls a nice breeze through the cottage. Even when it was 90+ during the day, I was able to sleep with a light blanket at night. I'm the type who keeps the house at 65 during the day in winter and 60 at night, so I am not a fan of super hot weather. The exhaust fan works! I believe we ordered it from Sears. It fits the lower sash of our front window.

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Old 08-03-2022, 06:24 PM   #21
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Think, that's interesting, thanks for the comparison. My house is something like 1400 square feet and I'm one person so I should be doing a lot better than you. BUT (confession) I set the AC to 64 so it's basically running all the time. On the other hand, in the winter I set the boiler to 60.

I think 60% could be OK for your humidity. It's not radically over the normal 50%.

If you have time maybe you can PM me about changing your electric supplier.
If you run it that cold the equipment better be right.

Have your evaporator and condensor coils been cleaned lately?

Is the blower clean?
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Old 08-04-2022, 10:27 AM   #22
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If you run it that cold the equipment better be right.

Have your evaporator and condensor coils been cleaned lately?

Is the blower clean?
I honestly feel that today's throwaway air conditioners are not worth paying to get them maintained. They last me about 3 years. My original unit lasted 20 years with no maintenance.
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Old 08-04-2022, 10:45 PM   #23
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My remarks were made assuming you have a central air system.

Portable window and floor units have filters that need periodic cleaning.
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