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#1 |
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Question for the resident forum members with construction knowledge.
What would be a ballpark price for a 2 bedroom, one bath,900 square foot, one story cottage with a loft on an island lot? Nothing fancy, this would be a camp (does anyone build those anymore?). Contractor grade everything. Footings are in, lot is level with easy access. Realizing the variables are many, what would be a reasonable estimate for the house only, excluding site work, septic, etc.? Asking for a friend. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. |
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#2 |
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If it has a bathroom and/or kitchen... then it will need a CoH and permitting will require that it be built to code.
A simple materials list can be quoted, but transport and labor costs become the variables. |
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#3 | |
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#4 |
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Something to through into consideration, is the level of finish your friend would require. While a certain level of work must be done to get the occupancy permit, if you friend can live without finishing touches like trim around the window, walls painted, etc that can help bring the cost down.
Unfortunately some people don't want to have to do that finish work themselves, which adds cost to the project..
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Life is about how much time you can spend relaxing... I do it on an island that isn't really an island..... |
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#5 |
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It may be challenge to find some one to build that. Not much profit in a tiny camp like that and builders are scheduled pretty far out.
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#6 |
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Might be better to consider a prefab from LaVallee or elsewhere and then just get someone to finish it.
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#7 |
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They could just ''California case'' with a wood stool if need be.
It is usually a lot of other decisions that slowly add up. Even the shape has an effect. But the biggest decision will be the CI (continuous insulation) requirement. A garage or shed sometimes used as a bunkhouse, but technically listed as a garage or shed, will not have that requirement. But they have no kitchen or bath in them. Even adding both water and electricity tends to raise an eyebrow. The CI can be met several ways... but each has positive/negative aspects. |
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#8 | |
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With that said, there is plenty of profit in a tiny camp, just as much as there would be in a big estate... But to get that profit, you have to go and get the job done... Not drag your feet..... I have worked with a few contractors getting things done around my camp... none of them where big time companies, they where word of mouth recommendations... In all cases we schedule appropriately, made sure all material was on site, so that they could come and get the work done.... In all cases the profits where good, because they didn't have to start and stop because of supply issues.....
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#9 |
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Seriously an 800 sq ft seasonal camp is going give you profit like a 4000 Sq ft house on the mainland? Not
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#10 |
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#11 |
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On a REAL island, the crew can't leave at lunchtime because somebody else controls the boat.
We're paying just under $190 sf for a 400 sf bunkhouse. No bath, no kitchen, no interior finish of any kind. No closets, no interior finish, no insulation. More like a garage with patio doors. Probably $8000 extra in tree removal due to proximity of power lines and barging out an excavator to do site work and moving really big trees. Maybe $2500 for design work/drawings needed for permits and application fees to town and state. We used existing site plans on file with the town, drawn when we installed septic ~40-50 years ago. |
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#12 |
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Just finishing my shed rebuild after the fire. We are building a 12x20, doors front and rear but at a pretty high quality build level. Prefinished cedar shakes to match the house ($820/square just in shakes), metal roof and trim, woodshed down one side and overhang for storage down the other. Walkways around it connecting it back to the main structure. Probably going to be in the $60-70k range, but I really haven't been tracking it. I buy the materials and pay the labor so unless I add up every receipt on my account I don't really know.
Our bunk house a few years ago was a very high end build to match the finish level of the house. 16x16, Marvin windows, sub panel/wired, all finished inside with pine and LVP flooring, deck on the front, same siding and windows as above. Probably $75k+ on this all in. My crew are great and could build it for you. Not sure if they would do time and materials like we did or quote a flat price. That's between you to work out if you want to chat with them. |
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#13 |
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#14 |
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A lot depends on whether they build it themselves or have someone build it for them.
Traditional camps/cottages were built by the owner, family, and friends. They used what was the least expensive materials, that we now have come to consider ''high-end'' but at that time were considered ''below grade''. Cedar shakes on the oldest buildings were replaced on the ''money side'' by clapboards; clapboards at the time being more expensive and considered an upgrade to the lowly cedar shakes. The trend in black windows dates back to when owners could not afford large pane windows... they had to have muntins (what we call grilles) to hold the smaller panes of glass. The owner had to refinish the sashes every couple of years to keep them from rotting... so since they had to paint them, instead of white that attracted the eye... they painted them black to see past them and create the illusion of a large single pane of glass that they could not afford. When they got to the point that they could afford a sash with a single pane, that is when you see the craftsmans-style window with the 6 over one detail. The remove bottom sash would be reworked into a window for the front door... as no one wanted to waste it. It isn't particularly hard to build a shed on pier foundation with 2x4 stud walls, 3/4 ADV flooring, 7/16 Smartpanel siding, and either white or tan premium high-efficiency vinyl windows that will more than do the job while keeping the older traditions of building alive. It is the labor, and meeting the new codes. The walls would need to be double offset, using 2x3 to hang the rock. And then other choices would need to be made to keep the cost down, the same way as it was done decades ago. |
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#15 |
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Thanks for all the thoughtful replies, lots of good info here.
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#16 |
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John makes a lot of good points. 25 yrs ago we might not think of insulating a summer cottage. Now, you have to. Things we might have done when we “built our own” no longer meet the code. This really adds to the cost. The other thing that people miss is the cost of getting labor, materials, and equipment out to the island & back. Barge service might run 1500 per day. Then plan on paying +/- 150 a day to get labor out there and back. Also, expect a shorter workday. Laborers are usually paid from mainland dock to mainland dock. Depending on travel time to the island this might mean 8:30 to 3:30 workday including lunch break & other breaks. I had a recent insurance claim that doubled due to the added island costs.
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#17 |
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Actually why it is hard to quote.
The Zip System was designed to lower labor costs. Not my favorite for various reasons, but does lower the labor costs. With the CI, some are going to what we call RZip... which is a rigid insulated panel like a SIP panel without the drywall attached to the inside... it cost more in material, but saves on labor. So a lot of keeping prices down is balancing labor and material costs through the best building technique to meet the code. Island is tough, because the weight and size of the material needs to be taken into consideration. An owner travelling back and forth on a regular basis can add a few items each time... but size and weight need to be accounted for. |
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#18 | |
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#19 | |
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I've seen some recent postings on other sites of people looking for a rustic camp to preserve. I bet in 25 years, people will be tearing down those ubiquitous McMansions on the lake to build a nice little A-frame to relax in. ![]() |
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#20 |
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You can still build them that way... but they have to stay like our original camps/cottages.
We still sell compost toilets for those that wish to forgo the cost of a septic system, kerosene lamps and hand pumped wellheads for those that want to forgo electricity, small wood stoves with all the accessories for fall/winter meal prep, and small grills with green one pound propane cylinders for summer meal prep. Without water and electricity, you basically have a garage/shed that you can legally stay in for roughly six months steady or intermittently throughout the year. You can even use the original clapboard (we now call it double clap so that newbies don't get it confused with bevel siding) or novelty siding (originally called dutch lap). We even have shiplap log siding and brushed (rough) shiplap to make a log look or board & batten. 1x12 form board will also work for B&B, but needs to be air dried long enough not to split and hold a stain. But all that siding is more expensive than a smartpanel for coverage. We still have red pine flooring (prior to WWII) and SYP (after WWII)... but it can be more expensive than just inexpensive LVP or a stain-seal application over 3/4 ADV. |
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