Roofing Systems

[Winilyme]

Firstly, thanks to all for your responses. Here are my thoughts and answers to questions:

Smith Point Boater - Wondering if you've thought about installing roof snow guards above those areas where sliding snow is a problem. In any event, we're not here in the winter (so we're not going to be injured) and our roof pitch is quite minimal (guessing a 3/12 or 4/12 pitch). I just checked out TCR's website and will be reaching out to them to learn more.

Biggd - Do you know - did your neighbors install the insulation to moderate heat gain/loss or was it more to minimize noise? Did they have asphalt before and do you know if they've experienced any increase in noise?

John Mercier - Good advice regarding warranty and I'll be asking TCR about noise control - if it's even necessary. In our case, it only would be if the noise expected would be worse than what we experience with our current asphalt roof.

Pond Guy - I will ask for Ron.

ishoot308 - A very good question. We bought our home ten years ago. The home inspector said the roof was in good condition so I thought no more of it at the time. I now regret not asking when the asphalt roof was last replaced. I believe between 15 and 20 years old since the prior owners built an addition that doubled the size of the home in the mid-2000's or thereabouts. The roof on the whole house seems to have aged exactly the same so I'm guessing the whole house was re-shingled at the time the addition was built. As far as leaks, the only leaks we've had have occurred in the last five years. In one case, it was a simple nail pop and fix. The biggest culprit has been the flashing and sealant around our field stone chimney. Leakage here recurs every other year and I go up with a tube of roofing cement, make a mess of the joints (and myself) while managing to temporarily stop any further leaking. Our asphalt shingles are not architectural; just your basic run of the mill. I've always believed that getting 25 years out of them would be a stretch. So, yes, it's really all about me wanting to be proactive AND I'm attracted to a roofing system that is very low maintenance. Peace of mind I guess.

Codeman671 - Did you install metal shingles or standing seam?

bigdog - My research thus far has me thinking that I'd pay quite a premium for the metal shingle over asphalt. I think it's more about the product versus labor costs. I need to get a better feel for this. I also need to understand better what manufacturers are creating the best product.

[smith point boater]

Smith Point Boater - Wondering if you've thought about installing roof snow guards above those areas where sliding snow is a problem. In any event, we're not here in the winter (so we're not going to be injured) and our roof pitch is quite minimal (guessing a 3/12 or 4/12 pitch). I just checked out TCR's website and will be reaching out to them to learn more.


The ones they had at the time really weren't sufficient. I could look into it again as there are always product advances. Ron will be able to advise you.
FYI - they put the shingles right over the existing single layer shingles. Very little if any noise problems.

Good luck

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by Winilyme

Firstly, thanks to all for your responses. Here are my thoughts and answers to questions:



Biggd - Do you know - did your neighbors install the insulation to moderate heat gain/loss or was it more to minimize noise? Did they have asphalt before and do you know if they've experienced any increase in noise?

It was an old A frame camp that had 2X6 T&G boards and asphalt shingles, no insulation. They stripped off the shingles and installed 3" insulated plywood boards then metal roof on top of that. I'm not sure if they put any additional insulation on the inside ceiling. The house was bought, remodeled, and flipped, now has a new owner. Personally, I would have torn it down and built a traditional style house, but the flipper wanted to turn it over quickly.
I have a metal roof over an existing asphalt roof, purchased it like that. I don't notice much noise, but the snow does slide off pile up high against the house.
The owner offered it to neighbors first before putting it on the market, I regret not buying it. The flipper bought it for $550, did a complete remodel including a new septic system and sold it for 1.3 million all in under 8 months, for an A frame!

[codeman671]

Originally Posted by Winilyme

Firstly, thanks to all for your responses. Here are my thoughts and answers to questions:



Codeman671 - Did you install metal shingles or standing seam?

We did a standard exposed fastener metal roof, not standing seam or metal shingles. Forever Metal Roof did ours. Being on an island with lots of trees around I wanted the simplicity of being able to remove a damaged panel in the middle should it happen without stripping it all back. Plus, it was a cost savings on a seasonal home that was well over budget as it was. I also knew that I would be gone long before the warranty ever expired. Chances are most people have moved on before the lengthy warranty periods run out on these.

We had a good asphalt roof under it was that less than 10 years old, and it was insulated on the inside. It was not loud at all.

[NH.Solar]

If you framing is solid and there is only one coarse of shingles in fair shape currently on the roof I would agree with Codeman, install the steel right over the shingles. But to take it one step further I'd suggest running 2/3 purlins 2' apart and in length with the ridgeline and placing 1.5" foam board in between the purlins. I did this on the shell of my entire 24 x 40barn when I built it and then Tyvek'd outside that and even before adding any additional insulation it could be heated easily with a woodstove and stayed cool in the summer as well. My neighbors across the street re-roofed their cottage home a few years back, which had about a 6/12 pitch shingled roof, and at my suggestion did the 2x3 (or 4 if they're cheaper) purlins with 1.5" right over their shingles and are thrilled with it. Less rain noise and with the increas in the R value the home is a lot more temperate.
The key to this on a low pitch roof is how well and sturdily your framing was done and if you aren't well qualified to judge this for yourself be sure to have an engineering study done. We have to do thisby law on every solar roof installation and a basicstudy on a moderate;y sized house usually comes in under a $1,000. Money well spent both for piece of mind ...and probably still less than it might cost to have the old shingles removed and properly deposed of

[sky's]

first and foremost you have to have a clear understanding of were the snow is going to land when it slides off your roof. while some people praise there choices to put on a metal roof i have met people that wish they didn't. for example i met a lady that had a metal roof put on and when the snow slides off
it lands in front of her garage doors. when this happens it hardens and your not going to simply shovel that pile. look at your landscaping. if your bushes are going to be receiving the snow then kiss them good bye. railings are another one i've seen entire railing systems destroyed by the snow sliding off. metal roofs like vinyl siding have there place but not always the best choice for resdiential. there are ice rakes that can try and manage the downfall you'll see them on alot of commercial buildings. good luck with your selection. im old fashioned stay with asphalt.