Jet Ski Advice

[thinkxingu]

Mornin', lake friends!

I've been avoiding buying a jet ski because I'll have to trailer it in and out for each use, but a friend got me on his the other day and now I'm thinking of picking one up.

His is a Yamaha 2-stroke around 2005 or something and I might be able to pick it up cheap.

I have 3 questions, if you would:

1. The machine seems to smoke a bit and needs a fair amount of throttle before hitting a power band. Is that the nature of those machines or will some tune-up steps remedy that?

2. Do the new(er) machines add features that would be worth investing in a later model?

3. If yes on #2, what might I look for and what should I be expecting to pay?

It would be either for me and my wife together or alone, or with my 7 & 9 year-olds, though I'm not sure if we'd be more likely to use it independently or by following/towing our boat out and tooling around while anchored out.

Thanks!

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[Descant]

We've all said it: "I had so much fun, I bought one for the family."
You add oil to the gas in a 2-stroke, right? By definition, it will burn oil. Does anybody still make/sell a 2 stroke? Riding a chain saw without earplugs is not the same level of fun for me as something a little quieter. Newer is definitely quieter and 4 stroke will have better resale or trade value when the kids want their own.
I like the idea of anchoring out and using that as a base for a day of riding, but I bet you'll tow it once and the wife will suggest that "You take the 'toon and I'll bring the PWC myself to save you the trouble." LOL

[GodSmile]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Mornin', lake friends!

I've been avoiding buying a jet ski because I'll have to trailer it in and out for each use, but a friend got me on his the other day and now I'm thinking of picking one up.

His is a Yamaha 2-stroke around 2005 or something and I might be able to pick it up cheap.

I have 3 questions, if you would:

1. The machine seems to smoke a bit and needs a fair amount of throttle before hitting a power band. Is that the nature of those machines or will some tune-up steps remedy that?

2. Do the new(er) machines add features that would be worth investing in a later model?

3. If yes on #2, what might I look for and what should I be expecting to pay?

It would be either for me and my wife together or alone, or with my 7 & 9 year-olds, though I'm not sure if we'd be more likely to use it independently or by following/towing our boat out and tooling around while anchored out.

Thanks!

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Let us know what you decide. I'm hoping to rent one before the end of the season, and if I'm right I'm going to want to buy something used.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by GodSmile

Let us know what you decide. I'm hoping to rent one before the end of the season, and if I'm right I'm going to want to buy something used.

I'm probably not doing anything before next summer, but I'll be certain to share what I find.

I went to DaSilva's today and discovered a few things: I probably want something within the last half decade and 4-stroke. I'm thinking I'll need a swim bar/step to get my suburban dad bod out of the water and that a decent size rear platform would provide a nice place to play off. And it looks like there's almost two levels, technically advanced and basic--both of which have various levels of horsepower.

Finally, though I'm partial to Yamaha--I've read that most rental places use them, so I'm guessing they're very reliable--Seadoo may be more cost effective.

More thoughts wanted!

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[Cal Coon]

All 2 strokes smoke when first started. Smoke should go away when warmed up and in use for the most part. If it smokes a lot constantly, it is getting to much oil, which can be adjusted, or the top end of the motor may be junk. A compression test will tell you whats going on. All 2 strokes have automatic oil injection from the factory, no need to "mix" gas and oil yourself, unless someone has disconnected the injection system themselves and pre-mix the gas, which some people do for a host of reasons, but it's not very common, most people keep them in tact, and just add oil as needed. A 2 stroke has an oil reservoir for oil, and usually will have a dummy light, or a beeping sound for low oil warning should you forget to check it once in a while. I would top it off with every ride just for peace of mind, and keep a spare quart on board at all times. Make sure you either wrap the quart of oil in duct tape, or put it in a heavy duty leak proof plastic bag, (or both!!) because manufacturers have made the plastic bottles so thin and cheap, they break open pretty easy and make a big mess!! I have learned this the hard way!! You will become familiar with how much it goes through after just a few rides. A full reservoir will usually last around 3 to 5 full tanks of gas depending on how it's ridden. 2 strokes are a little bit louder than a 4 stroke, but in no way are they any where near as loud as a chainsaw these days, if ever!! Even ones 15, 20yrs old are not obnoxiously loud, you have to go back a long, long way to be able to compare them to a chainsaw, and if you do hear a loud one, it has been "customized" by the owner most likely, it didn't come that way out of the factory. I would NOT be afraid of a 2 stroke at all if you find the right deal on one. There are pros and cons to both. If you look at a 2 stroke to buy, I would highly recommend doing a compression test. It is simple, quick, and easy, and will give you a good idea on the condition of the top end of the motor, (pistons and rings). If you are not familiar with how to do a compression test, just look it up on youtube and you will find a thousand different videos on how to do it. IMHO, the "order" of quality goes like this: Honda, Yamaha, SeaDoo, Kawasaki, and the rest... Some may disagree, and that is ok with me, just my opinion. Good luck in your search. FWIW, I have a nice Snap On compression gauge set if you want to borrow, let me know. You don't want to use a cheap gauge because (and crazy to buy an expensive one to use it once), readings may be inaccurate, I saw it first hand one time when I was selling a snowmobile. A guy came with his own cheap gauge, and sled had low compression on his gauge. When we put my gauge on it, it was fine, and he bought it!! I KNEW the sled was fine, but he definitely wouldn't of bought it if I didn't have the nice gauge. He trusted mine over his... You don't have to have a "Snap On" gauge, but you definitely want a top brand name.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Cal Coon

All 2 strokes smoke when first started. Smoke should go away when warmed up and in use for the most part. If it smokes a lot constantly, it is getting to much oil, which can be adjusted, or the top end of the motor is junk. A compression test will tell you whats going on. All 2 strokes have automatic oil injection from the factory, no need to "mix" gas and oil yourself, unless someone has disconnected the injection system themselves and pre-mix the gas, which some people do for a host of reasons, but it's not very common, most people keep them in tact, and just add oil as needed. A 2 stroke has an oil reservoir for oil, and usually will have a dummy light, or a beeping sound for low oil warning should you forget to check it once in a while. I would top it off with every ride just for peace of mind, and keep a spare quart on board at all times. Make sure you either wrap the quart of oil in duct tape, or put it in a heavy duty leak proof plastic bag, (or both!!) because manufacturers have made the plastic bottles so thin and cheap, they break open pretty easy and make a big mess!! I have learned this the hard way!! You will become familiar with how much it goes through after just a few rides. A full reservoir will usually last around 3 to 5 full tanks of gas depending on how it's ridden. 2 strokes are a little bit louder than a 4 stroke, but in no way are they any where near as loud as a chainsaw these days, if ever!! Even ones 15, 20yrs old are not obnoxiously loud, you have to go back a long, long way to be able to compare them to a chainsaw, and if you do hear a loud one, it has been "customized" by the owner most likely, it didn't come that way out of the factory. I would NOT be afraid of a 2 stroke at all if you find the right deal on one. There are pros and cons to both. If you look at a 2 stroke to buy, I would highly recommend doing a compression test. It is simple, quick, and easy, and will give you a good idea on the condition of the top end of the motor, (pistons and rings). If you are not familiar with how to do a compression test, just look it up on youtube and you will find a thousand different videos on how to do it. IMHO, the "order" of quality goes like this: Honda, Yamaha, SeaDoo, Kawasaki, and the rest... Some may disagree, and that is ok with me, just my opinion. Good luck in your search. FWIW, I have a nice Snap On compression gauge set if you want to borrow, let me know. You don't want to use a cheap gauge because (and crazy to buy an expensive one to use it once), readings may be inaccurate, I saw it first hand one time when I was selling a snowmobile. A guy came with his own cheap gauge, and sled had low compression on his gauge. When we put my gauge on it, it was fine, and he bought it!! I KNEW the sled was fine, but he definitely wouldn't of bought it if I didn't have the nice gauge. He trusted mine over his... You don't have to have a "Snap On" gauge, but you definitely want a top brand name.

Thanks for the offer--if it gets to that point I'll be asking for advice.

As for the 2-stroke, the machine I drove seemed to smoke/smell not just at startup but throughout use a bit.

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[TiltonBB]

I have had three 2 strokes and a few 4 strokes. If you ride a 4 stroke once, you will not want a two stroke. Quieter, smoother, run cleaner, and just a much more comfortable experience.

I have had Yamaha's for years and I wouldn't have anything else. They consistently run great and the problems are few, if any. I have said it before but there is a reason most rental companies have all Yamaha's in their fleet. That should tell you something.

[Biggd]

I would avoid buying a 2 stroke. I have 2 Sea Doo's and I love them.
I have an 09 GTI 130se which is very reliable and will do 55mph.
I also have a 13 GTX 260 limited which is insanely fast and fun.
If you're a first timer I would stay away from the super charged models. They require more maintenance. If you buy used try to find something with under 100 hours.
The new GTI's are great machines! You can get them with a 130HP or 155HP. The 155 model will do 60mph which is plenty fast enough.
As far as trailering, they are much easier to get in and out of the water by yourself. Good luck with your search.

[Cal Coon]

I will admit that 4 stroke technology has come a long way in the last few years. They are snappier, and faster than ever before. I still have a need for speed, and older 4 strokes are Dogs, (slow and boring), IMHO. I have always liked the power band of a two stroke, and it's instant throttle response. I also LOVE the smell of two stroke exhaust!! Can't get enough of it!! I guess it all depends on how much money you want to spend, and what type of rider you would be. One other thing to keep in mind is that although two strokes are a higher maintenance machine, they are easier, and cheaper to work on. Good luck in your search, and always remember: Different "STROKES" for different folks!!! lol

[jetskier]

Hi all,

Simply, 4 stroke and 2 stroke jetskis are quite different.

• Other than the Yamaha Superjet, there are no new 2 stroke models on the market. So, all the contemporary models are 4 stroke.
• I have both a 2 stroke (1996 SeaDoo GTX) and a 4 stroke (2002 SeaDoo 4-Tec GTX). The riding characteristics of the two are quite different. The GTX is lighter and more maneuverable. The 4-Tec GTX is heavier and more of a flat out cruiser. The GTX will dance on the waves and the 4-Tec GTX tends to cut a bit more through the waves.
• If you are planning to tow, the 4 stroke is a much better choice.
• In general, 2 strokes require more maintenance and will likely be less reliable. Over time, I have replaced the engine, the gauges, the pump etc... In addition, the earlier jetskis did not anticipate E10 gasoline. The gas lines in my GTX decomposed based upon the E10 gasoline and I had to rebuild the carburetors and replace all the fuel lines. Additionally, the 2 stroke jetskis are all open loop cooled which means that if there is an obstruction in the water feed, you can blow the engine. The 4 strokes are closed loop cooled.
• All this being said, I do like my 2 stroke and my 4 stroke...they are very different rides. Maintenance aside, the 2 stroke is more fun. Pragmatically, if I was going to replace either, I would ditch the 2 stroke for another 4 stroke.

I hope that this is helpful

Jetskier

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by jetskier

Hi all,

Simply, 4 stroke and 2 stroke jetskis are quite different.

• Other than the Yamaha Superjet, there are no new 2 stroke models on the market. So, all the contemporary models are 4 stroke.
• I have both a 2 stroke (1996 SeaDoo GTX) and a 4 stroke (2002 SeaDoo 4-Tec GTX). The riding characteristics of the two are quite different. The GTX is lighter and more maneuverable. The 4-Tec GTX is heavier and more of a flat out cruiser. The GTX will dance on the waves and the 4-Tec GTX tends to cut a bit more through the waves.
• If you are planning to tow, the 4 stroke is a much better choice.
• In general, 2 strokes require more maintenance and will likely be less reliable. Over time, I have replaced the engine, the gauges, the pump etc... In addition, the earlier jetskis did not anticipate E10 gasoline. The gas lines in my GTX decomposed based upon the E10 gasoline and I had to rebuild the carburetors and replace all the fuel lines. Additionally, the 2 stroke jetskis are all open loop cooled which means that if there is an obstruction in the water feed, you can blow the engine. The 4 strokes are closed loop cooled.
• All this being said, I do like my 2 stroke and my 4 stroke...they are very different rides. Maintenance aside, the 2 stroke is more fun. Pragmatically, if I was going to replace either, I would ditch the 2 stroke for another 4 stroke.

I hope that this is helpful

Jetskier

There is a difference between the GTX and the GTI that I have also. The GTI seems to cut through the waves much better than the GTX and the GTX seems much heavier.
I'm not very big so I can maneuver the GTI around much easier than the GTX. But at 70mph in rough water the GTX is what I want to be on.
I personally don't like the smell and the noise of a 2 stroke so I would never buy one, JMO. I'm so glad everything is going 4 stroke. I don't even like being behind a 2 stoke in the water any more.
Which such a short season I don't want a machine I have to tinker with during the season. I just want to get on it and go.

[Cal Coon]

Originally Posted by jetskier

Hi all,

Simply, 4 stroke and 2 stroke jetskis are quite different.

• Other than the Yamaha Superjet, there are no new 2 stroke models on the market. So, all the contemporary models are 4 stroke.
• I have both a 2 stroke (1996 SeaDoo GTX) and a 4 stroke (2002 SeaDoo 4-Tec GTX). The riding characteristics of the two are quite different. The GTX is lighter and more maneuverable. The 4-Tec GTX is heavier and more of a flat out cruiser. The GTX will dance on the waves and the 4-Tec GTX tends to cut a bit more through the waves.
• If you are planning to tow, the 4 stroke is a much better choice.
• In general, 2 strokes require more maintenance and will likely be less reliable. Over time, I have replaced the engine, the gauges, the pump etc... In addition, the earlier jetskis did not anticipate E10 gasoline. The gas lines in my GTX decomposed based upon the E10 gasoline and I had to rebuild the carburetors and replace all the fuel lines. Additionally, the 2 stroke jetskis are all open loop cooled which means that if there is an obstruction in the water feed, you can blow the engine. The 4 strokes are closed loop cooled.
• All this being said, I do like my 2 stroke and my 4 stroke...they are very different rides. Maintenance aside, the 2 stroke is more fun. Pragmatically, if I was going to replace either, I would ditch the 2 stroke for another 4 stroke.

I hope that this is helpful

Jetskier

Start using Startron fuel system treatment, and you will NEVER have to worry about ethanol fuel ever again. Best stuff on the planet for treating fuel systems IMHO. I have been using it in everything I own, in both 2 and 4 stroke engines for 30 plus years, (except daily drivers of course), and have NEVER had to rebuild a carburetor yet. As a matter of fact, Startron "fixed" a gummed up carb I had on a snowblower one time. Snowblower was hard starting and would only run on "choke" at first, but eventually, after a couple hrs of running time with a heavy dose of Startron, it started running better and better, and is fine to this day. It is good for cleaning fuel injectors too, not just for motors with a carburetor. They also have Diesel treatment too. Amazing product.

[Hillcountry]

Originally Posted by Cal Coon

Start using Startron fuel system treatment, and you will NEVER have to worry about ethanol fuel ever again. Best stuff on the planet for treating fuel systems IMHO. I have been using it in everything I own, in both 2 and 4 stroke engines for 30 plus years, (except daily drivers of course), and have NEVER had to rebuild a carburetor yet. As a matter of fact, Startron "fixed" a gummed up carb I had on a snowblower one time. Snowblower was hard starting and would only run on "choke" at first, but eventually, after a couple hrs of running time with a heavy dose of Startron, it started running better and better, and is fine to this day. It is good for cleaning fuel injectors too, not just for motors with a carburetor. They also have Diesel treatment too. Amazing product.

I have had great luck with StarTron myself! Good stuff!

[jetskier]

E10 literally turned the gas lines into gel, but SeaDoo did not use A1 rated marine gas lines on the 1996 GTX. If you have an older model jetski and an additive can prevent this from happening, that is well worth it. I did all the work myself but it probably would have been north of $1,000 to have a shop do it.

Personally, I hate E10, it is just horrible. It is almost impossible to find fuel in Laconia without Ethanol. When we snowmobile in Canada, we fill the sleds there as there is no Ethanol added to their gas.

Jetskier

[thinkxingu]

To follow up here, I will be ordering a '20 GTX 170 but now, as I'm beginning to budget for the summer, I'm starting to think about how I'll acquire the fuel. I'm only a few minutes from Ambrose Cove Marina on the water, which would be the best option, but they're always expensive—$4.09 most of last season.

Given that I can tow the ski a couple miles down the road to the gas station, I'm wondering if I should be planning on doing that—at ~$2.30/gallon I'd be buying my costs in half.

I'd want to use an ethanol neutralizer/stabilizer, but that only looks to add ~$.16/gallon which would still be much cheaper.

Is there anything else added to "marina" gas that would justify the added cost?

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[codeman671]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

To follow up here, I will be ordering a '20 GTX 170 but now, as I'm beginning to budget for the summer, I'm starting to think about how I'll acquire the fuel. I'm only a few minutes from Ambrose Cove Marina on the water, which would be the best option, but they're always expensive—$4.09 most of last season.

Given that I can tow the ski a couple miles down the road to the gas station, I'm wondering if I should be planning on doing that—at ~$2.30/gallon I'd be buying my costs in half.

I'd want to use an ethanol neutralizer/stabilizer, but that only looks to add ~$.16/gallon which would still be much cheaper.

Is there anything else added to "marina" gas that would justify the added cost?

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Given market conditions boat gas will be far less than $4.09 this year. Also keep in mind that you can submit your receipts for reimbursement of road tax for gas obtained at a regular station by submitting forms to the state. I have never bothered but many do. I wouldn’t bother using additives to fuel unless you are letting it sit all winter, chances are you will be going through it pretty fast. I never add anything to my fuel and never have problems.

[thinkxingu]

I'm thinking less about the overall price and more about the different, but I forgot about the Road Tax refund—$.22/gallon plus ethanol treatment brings that $4.09 to ~$3.69. Still about $1/gallon or ~$15 more per fill-up.

I guess it'll come down to convenience and if I want to spend half an hour dragging it to the gas station or having fun.

Any other ways to fill? Anybody ever use one of these? https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...5161_200325161

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[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I'm thinking less about the overall price and more about the different, but I forgot about the Road Tax refund—$.22/gallon plus ethanol treatment brings that $4.09 to ~$3.69. Still about $1/gallon or ~$15 more per fill-up.

I guess it'll come down to convenience and if I want to spend half an hour dragging it to the gas station or having fun.

Any other ways to fill? Anybody ever use one of these? https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...5161_200325161

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Or Drive it to any other marina on the water but Ambrose and save a ton of money! Ambrose is a rip off on gas! Always has been!

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by ishoot308

Or Drive it to any other marina on the water but Ambrose and save a ton of money! Ambrose is a rip off on gas! Always has been!

The only other one even close (Melvin Village = Ambrose Cove) is Lane's End, but that's a bit of a haul for ~$.30.

Any idea why AC/MVM are so high?!

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[The Real BigGuy]

Because they can be and still move product. Seems all marinas on that part of the lake are roughly the same except for lanes end.


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[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

The only other one even close (Melvin Village = Ambrose Cove) is Lane's End, but that's a bit of a haul for ~$.30.

Any idea why AC/MVM are so high?!

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Why you say? Because they can.

Our gas prices in Alton gas stations are generally 15-20 cents higher than in communities south and west. Is it worth driving from Alton to Concord to get gas at Sam's, then drive home to save 20 cents per gallon times 8 gallons ($1.60)(35 minutes each way). Probably not. But if we go down to Beaver Meadow GC in Concord, then go to Makris in Concord for lunch, it's easy enough to stop at Sam's for gas.

Sooooooo, should you pay the high prices at AC/MVM or pull your watercraft, which you don't like, when you get gas, why not monitor your gas, and enjoy a nice ride enroute to cheaper gas, then combine it with a road less traveled on the way home.

Seems like a no brainer

Dave

[codeman671]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I'm thinking less about the overall price and more about the different, but I forgot about the Road Tax refund—$.22/gallon plus ethanol treatment brings that $4.09 to ~$3.69. Still about $1/gallon or ~$15 more per fill-up.

I guess it'll come down to convenience and if I want to spend half an hour dragging it to the gas station or having fun.

Any other ways to fill? Anybody ever use one of these? https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...5161_200325161

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Yes I had that one. Pain in the rear. Take the money you are spending on that and put it towards gas. It will cost average you spend per gallon down.

You weren't that worried about gas prices before- you decided to buy a jetski when has was $4.09 per gallon, prices are falling to almost historic lows. Why worry now?

[fatlazyless]

Yesterday, Sunday-March 22: Rt 93-Exit 25 Holderness has two gas stations, Irving and Citgo, and reg gas was selling for 1.999 and 2.019. Both stations were busy.

About three miles away, close to the Plymouth Walmart on Tenney Mt Hgwy, there's three gas stations; Mobil, Irving, Shell, and all had reg gas selling for about 2.30/gal. All three stations was totally empty of customer cars at their pumps. ....

[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I'm thinking less about the overall price and more about the different, but I forgot about the Road Tax refund—$.22/gallon plus ethanol treatment brings that $4.09 to ~$3.69. Still about $1/gallon or ~$15 more per fill-up.

I guess it'll come down to convenience and if I want to spend half an hour dragging it to the gas station or having fun.

Any other ways to fill? Anybody ever use one of these? https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...5161_200325161

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Weight of a gallon of gas is approximately 6lbs (water is about 8lbs). The gas caddy holds 14 gallons. That is 112 lbs plus the weight of the caddy that you will be hefting around, so save 30-50 cents per gallon. That's a lot of gas and lifting to justify the cost of the caddy alone.

I agree with Codeman; save your money.

Dave

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by codeman671

Yes I had that one. Pain in the rear. Take the money you are spending on that and put it towards gas. It will cost average you spend per gallon down.

You weren't that worried about gas prices before- you decided to buy a jetski when has was $4.09 per gallon, prices are falling to almost historic lows. Why worry now?

Why worry now? Two reasons: 1. This will only be my second summer not working, so I need to be smart with budgeting. 2. As a teacher, I can only afford the things I do because of #1. Ultimately it's a cost vs. finances vs. enjoyment equation.

Since I need to pull the ski after use (I don't have a slip to keep it at), it'll already be ready to roll. When doing the math above and thinking about the extra time spent, however, it doesn't appear to be a worthwhile trade-off.

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[8gv]

When I was a yoot I carried my dad's steel 6 gallon jerry cans full of gas.

(Can I still use the term "jerry" or is that no longer allowed?)

He parked as close as he could but the carry was often across 100' of granite cobble, down a steep ramp to the floating dock where I got to swing them into the boat. As a result of that and hauling our oversized anchor, each September I would return to school with Popeye arms.

Now my back says "lots of smaller cans please".

Big gas cans, even with wheels, can knock one out of commission.

[The Real BigGuy]

If you’re going anywhere on the lake from the Ambrose area don’t you have to pass Lane’s End? Fill outbound and inbound the first time, then every time you head back.


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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by The Real BigGuy

If you’re going anywhere on the lake from the Ambrose area don’t you have to pass Lane’s End? Fill outbound and inbound the first time, then every time you head back.


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No, LE is on the other side of Moultonborough Bay, which we almost never get to unless heading to Wolfeboro, Alton Bay, etc.

I guess it'll depend on how fuel efficient the new ride is and how much I'd burn getting there and back.

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[winni83]

Curious how you avoid going near Lane's End Gas when heading south from the Ambrose Cove area.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by winni83

Curious how you avoid going near Lane's End Gas when heading south from the Ambrose Cove area.

I'm in Hanson Cove.

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[winni83]

Got your location, but do you have a secret passage to avoid the Lane's End area? See:


Lane's End.pdf

[thinkxingu]

That image isn't coming up for me, so I'm not sure what it was, but for me to get to Lane's End is a while with all the no-wake zones and channels, etc.

I'd say 80% of our time is spent no further than the north side of Moultonborough Bay—Smith Cove, etc In fact, throughout a whole summer, we don't go to MVM at all, even though that's where we store our boat in the off-season.

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[thinkxingu]

Yeah, it opened up in webview, which I always forget about.

As mentioned, we rarely go past Elkins Point and, when we do, it's the straightest line out of MB.

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[LIforrelaxin]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

To follow up here, I will be ordering a '20 GTX 170 but now, as I'm beginning to budget for the summer, I'm starting to think about how I'll acquire the fuel. I'm only a few minutes from Ambrose Cove Marina on the water, which would be the best option, but they're always expensive—$4.09 most of last season.

Given that I can tow the ski a couple miles down the road to the gas station, I'm wondering if I should be planning on doing that—at ~$2.30/gallon I'd be buying my costs in half.

I'd want to use an ethanol neutralizer/stabilizer, but that only looks to add ~$.16/gallon which would still be much cheaper.

Is there anything else added to "marina" gas that would justify the added cost?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

Given where you are on the lake my guess is your at Arcadia campground, or you going to be storing you ski on the trailer? Jet ski's are light on gas, my suggestion is to tow it to the gas station and fill it up. Or by five gallon tank, and fill it up, sitting on the trailer, where ever you store it. This is how I keep my costs down.... I have 5 cans, I fill them up and then fill the boats up, with a siphon at my dock...

[Hillcountry]

Originally Posted by LIforrelaxin

Given where you are on the lake my guess is your at Arcadia campground, or you going to be storing you ski on the trailer? Jet ski's are light on gas, my suggestion is to tow it to the gas station and fill it up. Or by five gallon tank, and fill it up, sitting on the trailer, where ever you store it. This is how I keep my costs down.... I have 5 cans, I fill them up and then fill the boats up, with a siphon at my dock...

Might not be easy for him to do with “T-Rex” arms! Lol...he said it not me.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by LIforrelaxin

Given where you are on the lake my guess is your at Arcadia campground, or you going to be storing you ski on the trailer? Jet ski's are light on gas, my suggestion is to tow it to the gas station and fill it up. Or by five gallon tank, and fill it up, sitting on the trailer, where ever you store it. This is how I keep my costs down.... I have 5 cans, I fill them up and then fill the boats up, with a siphon at my dock...

I am at Arcadia, yes. That was my question—I can be at Murphy's in five minutes, so I was just trying to figure out the total cost one way or the other and didn't know if marina gas had anything other than stabilizer/ethanol treatment to make it cost that much more.

I'm thinking that if I end up using whole tanks, I'll probably just fill up on the water on the way, but if I can get away with 5 gallon jugs here and there, I may try to reduce costs when possible.

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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Hillcountry

Might not be easy for him to do with “T-Rex” arms! Lol...he said it not me.

As I was typing the other post, it occurred to me that I probably can't reach the fuel fill!!!

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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Top-Water

Correct, and something to the effect, about tree stump legs.


This is like a Seinfeld episode ... a topic about nothing, folks have been filling there boats for years and saving money at the same time.

Wait until we get into backing it up at the ramp, books and novels will be written.

Books and novels are the same thing. *Sigh* I expect better ribbing from you.

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[TiltonBB]

Originally Posted by Top-Water

Correct, and something to the effect, about tree stump legs.


This is like a Seinfeld episode ... a topic about nothing, folks have been filling there boats for years and saving money at the same time.

Wait until we get into backing it up at the ramp, books and novels will be written.

Did you expect something else? This continuing endless nonsense has been about as predictable as a post from FLL for the last year.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

Did you expect something else? This continuing endless nonsense has been about as predictable as a post from FLL for the last year.

I know, right? Sooo much worse than the constant CV19 drivel.

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[VitaBene]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I am at Arcadia, yes. That was my question—I can be at Murphy's
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No such store any longer I did speak with Richard a few days ago, he is enjoying retirement.

People still call Skelleys Market "Dads"!

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by VitaBene

No such store any longer I did speak with Richard a few days ago, he is enjoying retirement.

People still call Skelleys Market "Dads"!

Wait, what's it called now?! Just "Irving"?

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[winni83]

It is called Greene's Corner Market and has been operating under that name for sometime.

[thinkxingu]

When we take that corner, all our minds are on camp!

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[thinkxingu]

Oh, and my NH Boat Show thread was locked (the comments went wayyyy off-topic), but I thought I'd let all y'all know that...

I ORDERED MY NEW JETSKI TODAY!!!

I'm hoping to pick it up early to mid-may, which gives me...two months more to ask questions!

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Oh, and my NH Boat Show thread was locked (the comments went wayyyy off-topic), but I thought I'd let all y'all know that...

I ORDERED MY NEW JETSKI TODAY!!!

I'm hoping to pick it up early to mid-may, which gives me...two months more to ask questions!

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Finally! Make sure you sanitize it when you get it. It might be being built by techs with the virus.

[8gv]

Does the trailer have a spare tire on it?

Do you have a lug wrench and a jack?

I find that these items go a long way toward preventing flat tires!

Recently I bought one of these to carry in place of a hydraulic jack:

SeaSense EASY LIFT JACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FZ345S..._DSuEEbYN42NNX

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by 8gv

Does the trailer have a spare tire on it?

Do you have a lug wrench and a jack?

I find that these items go a long way toward preventing flat tires!

Recently I bought one of these to carry in place of a hydraulic jack:

SeaSense EASY LIFT JACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FZ345S..._DSuEEbYN42NNX

Assuming I don't tow to the gas station, the trailer will be going only 1/2 mile total per use...off any main roads.

Any other accessory suggestions?

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[Poor Richard]

Originally Posted by Hillcountry

Might not be easy for him to do with “T-Rex” arms! Lol...he said it not me.

I'll just leave this here...

[thinkxingu]

I bought one of these while in Disney last year (T-Rex restaurant). It's my second favorite shirt.

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[JEEPONLY]

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

Did you expect something else? This continuing endless nonsense has been about as predictable as a post from FLL for the last year.

Did someone say, "Mornin', lake friends!" ?

[Biggd]

We all have plenty of time to waste now.

[gillygirl]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Books and novels are the same thing. *Sigh* I expect better ribbing from you.

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Incorrect. All novels are books, but not all books are novels.


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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by gillygirl

Incorrect. All novels are books, but not all books are novels.


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Hahahaha, fair enough, though the terms are synonymous enough to be bland. I still expect more from TW.

Now, gilly, do you have any jetski accessory or usage suggestions for me and my T-Rex arms?!

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[thinkxingu]

Hey, forum friends! Picking up the new ski next week and have some final questions I can't seem to find consistent answers for:

1. Does anyone pull their seat to vent gas fumes before launching?

2. How much of a "pre-ride" check should I do before backing down the launch? Do I need to check oil/coolant every time? Start it before launch?

3. Given that it's fresh water and that I'll be driving up a couple hills when done riding, do I still need to run it out of the water for a few seconds? I've read about the Sea-Doo carbon seal issue (that it shouldn't be run out of the water to avoid heat breakdown) and want to make sure I'm doing things right.

4. Any other tips you've found helpful?

Thanks!

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[codeman671]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Hey, forum friends! Picking up the new ski next week and have some final questions I can't seem to find consistent answers for:

1. Does anyone pull their seat to vent gas fumes before launching?

2. How much of a "pre-ride" check should I do before backing down the launch? Do I need to check oil/coolant every time? Start it before launch?

3. Given that it's fresh water and that I'll be driving up a couple hills when done riding, do I still need to run it out of the water for a few seconds? I've read about the Sea-Doo carbon seal issue (that it shouldn't be run out of the water to avoid heat breakdown) and want to make sure I'm doing things right.

4. Any other tips you've found helpful?

Thanks!

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Just gas up and go. You have overthought this whole thing by a long shot.
Check your drain plug, splash it, jump on, take off and enjoy. They are pretty maintenance free these days.

[Hillcountry]

1. I usually stand up “off the seat” to vent gas...
2. No. Does anyone, anywhere check their oil and coolant every time a vehicle is used? Your manual will tell you to do this but use your common sense and check at intervals to be confident if your levels. Perhaps when you get fuel, check the oil and look at the coolant reservoir...
3. Read your owner’s manual!

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Top-Water

Number 1 thing you can do above all other things. PRACTICE backing down the ramp a bunch of times before the season starts.

All the other things you mention will fall into place after you master backing it up. Even the most seasoned vetrans get all screwed up backing these short trailers down the ramp.

Remember PRACTICE give yourself time to really learn. If you can set up some cones it will help. Even if your just in a parking lot.

I hadn't thought about setting up cones, but that's not a bad idea—my ramp goes downhill and turns, and I've been told the short trailer will turn quickly, so it might be worth some practice when it's not busy.

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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Hillcountry

1. I usually stand up “off the seat” to vent gas...
2. No. Does anyone, anywhere check their oil and coolant every time a vehicle is used? Your manual will tell you to do this but use your common sense and check at intervals to be confident if your levels. Perhaps when you get fuel, check the oil and look at the coolant reservoir...
3. Read your owner’s manual!

Sea-Doo gets a bad rap for carbon seal/sinking, so I was wondering how often a check is really needed or if there were specific things I should be checking for more often, etc.

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[Cal Coon]

You should always start your water craft in your driveway before launching at a ramp, and let it run for a few minutes (ON A GARDEN HOSE, WITH WATER RUNNING THROUGH IT!!) before launching. You know it's running, no dead battery, fuel is "flowing", warmed up a little bit so when you get to the ramp you have no "surprises", and should be an easy start up. Also, I always have the cover off, I have the dock lines all ready, anything, and everything that is going on the vessel is already on it before I get to the ramp so that all you have to do is put it in the water when you get there. I put it in the water, tie it up, then start it up so it warms up while you go park your truck and trailer, so when you get back to it you just go... I get really frustrated having to "wait" for other people in front of me getting their boat ready while in line at the ramp. That is BS!! They just hold everyone else up that is behind them waiting, and God forbid you ask to go in front of them because you are ALL READY to go... So now you sit there waiting for the idiot in front of you getting his vessel ready, while no one else is launching, and the line of people is getting longer and longer... Boat ramp etiquette is horrible. There should be signs posted at all boat ramps so when you are ready to go, and the guy in front of you is not, and the ramp is "open", all you have to do is point to the sign and say to the guy in front of you that "I'm next" because I'm all ready, so that way there he can't "hold" you back, and maybe next time he'll be ready to go when he gets to the ramp, instead of getting ready at the ramp. Common sense to me.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Top-Water

Ask you dealer about this a few minutes without water could be deadly for the machine on this. In my opinion it should just be started only and only ran for a very brief moment.

That's what I was referring to with the carbon ring "issue." I think the manual says no more than 90 seconds, which is easy to do for pre-riding, but I'm wondering about what it takes to "clear it out" afterward.

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[upthesaukee]

I must be the exception. In the years I owned Upthesaukee Too, I always opened the engine hatch, and stuck my head down inside to do a "sniff test". I also looked at the various reservoirs to visually check the levels. Engine oil, did I check it every time? Nope. Check it often? Yes, probably at least weekly. Check battery switch. Check bilge water level.

I could do all this while my wife got her stuff in order. Turn on the blower, and wait until she truly had stuff put away, and then got ready to handle stern lines.

Crank 'er up, and cast off. Enjoy the ride.

Dave

[Winilyme]

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

I must be the exception. In the years I owned Upthesaukee Too, I always owned the engine hatch, and stuck my head down inside to do a "sniff test". I also looked at the various reservoirs to visually check the levels. Engine oil, did I check it every time? Nope. Check it often? Yes, probably at least weekly. Check battery switch. Check bilge water level.

I could do all this while my wife got her stuff in order. Turn on the blower, and wait until she truly had stuff put away, and then got ready to handle stern lines.

Crank 'er up, and cast off. Enjoy the ride.

Dave

I could do all that stuff while my wife gets ready, plus wash and wax it, gas it up and perhaps take a short 30 minute spin around the lake.

[Cal Coon]

Originally Posted by Top-Water

Ask you dealer about this a few minutes without water could be deadly for the machine on this. In my opinion it should just be started only and only ran for a very brief moment.

I guess I should have stated that you ALWAYS run your engine in your driveway with engine ears, (or some other type of connection for jet drive unit's), with your garden hose so that you are running water through it while it is running. I would never have thought that people would be ignorant enough to run their engine's with no water... You should NEVER run a boat motor without water running through it. It only takes seconds to destroy an impeller that is run dry. I guess I just "assumed" that anybody that owns a water vessel would know this... Kind of like I would just "assume" that nobody needs to be told that you should never inhale, or ingest Lysol, or any other type of disinfectant. Amazing how things get (mis)interpreted. Also, for those of you that don't know, a garden hose connection usually comes out of the foundation of your house for a garden hose to be connected too. If you don't know what a foundation is, (or a garden hose), you may as well just sell your boat, you are beyond help at this point...

[pondguy]

Perhaps this should be tested in the bath tub first just so no mistakes are made.

[Descant]

I have to agree with those who say "Don't block the ramp". e always had a driver and somebody in the boat, every thing un hooked, plugs in etc. before getting in line. The driver backed down and the helmsman started up and backed off while the truck was leaving. Elapsed time, less than thirty seconds when the trailer approached the water and as gone. Same thing when getting out, have the winch line extended and accessible, drive/winch on (no power loading) and get out. Under clean drain dry protocols, empty your bilge etc away from the ramp, no dirty or contaminated water back into the lake.
For a fun hour or two, go to a busy ramp and just watch. Some people dawdle, walk back and forth six times trying to remember everything and take way too long on the ramp. Lots of shouting and trying to drive the truck while you're sitting on the boat Others have it down and are less funny to watch, but very instructional. Go again at the end of the day and watch retrievers, too.

It's easier to back up when the machine is on the trailer and can be seen. You might consider a couple of sticks at the end of the trailer to make it easier to see. Driveway reflectors like you set out to guide the snowplow are cheap.

[Descant]

I have to agree with those who say "Don't block the ramp". e always had a driver and somebody in the boat, every thing un hooked, plugs in etc. before getting in line. The driver backed down and the helmsman started up and backed off while the truck was leaving. Elapsed time, less than thirty seconds when the trailer approached the water and as gone. Same thing when getting out, have the winch line extended and accessible, drive/winch on (no power loading) and get out. Under clean drain dry protocols, empty your bilge etc away from the ramp, no dirty or contaminated water back into the lake.
For a fun hour or two, go to a busy ramp and just watch. Some people dawdle, walk back and forth six times trying to remember everything and take way too long on the ramp. Lots of shouting and trying to drive the truck while you're sitting on the boat Others have it down and are less funny to watch, but very instructional. Go again at the end of the day and watch retrievers, too.

It's easier to back up when the machine is on the trailer and can be seen. You might consider a couple of sticks at the end of the trailer to make it easier to see. Driveway reflectors like you set out to guide the snowplow are cheap.

[TiltonBB]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

That's what I was referring to with the carbon ring "issue." I think the manual says no more than 90 seconds, which is easy to do for pre-riding, but I'm wondering about what it takes to "clear it out" afterward.

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I would never, and have never, run a jet ski that has been pulled from fresh water to "clear it out". It is fine and ready for the next ride just the way you took it out of the water.

When I use something in salt water I take it back to the house and immediately attach the garden hose and run the motor for about 5 minutes. Then I pressure wash it and the trailer.

Any boat that I am taking to a ramp I start it at the house for about 2 seconds just to make sure it is ready to go and the battery is up. As soon as it fires I shut it off.

When launching the jet ski I instruct whoever is driving it to start it in reverse. That way, if the nose has come off the front stop,and it often does due to the incline of the ramp, you don't start it and slam it back into the trailer. People forget that from the moment you start it it is always pumping water (until they suck up a dock line)

On the jet skis and the pontoon boats that I trailer I loosen the winch strap about a foot before completely backing down the ramp. That way, when I hit the brakes the boat will move back a foot and be in slightly deeper water. The tow vehicle will not have to go as far into the water and doing this also breaks any friction if the boat has been on the trailer for a long time. Sometimes they stick.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

I would never, and have never, run a jet ski that has been pulled from fresh water to "clear it out". It is fine and ready for the next ride just the way you took it out of the water.

When I use something in salt water I take it back to the house and immediately attach the garden hose and run the motor for about 5 minutes. Then I pressure wash it and the trailer.

Any boat that I am taking to a ramp I start it at the house for about 2 seconds just to make sure it is ready to go and the battery is up. As soon as it fires I shut it off.

When launching the jet ski I instruct whoever is driving it to start it in reverse. That way, if the nose has come off the front stop,and it often does due to the incline of the ramp, you don't start it and slam it back into the trailer. People forget that from the moment you start it it is always pumping water (until they suck up a dock line)

On the jet skis and the pontoon boats that I trailer I loosen the winch strap about a foot before completely backing down the ramp. That way, when I hit the brakes the boat will move back a foot and be in slightly deeper water. The tow vehicle will not have to go as far into the water and doing this also breaks any friction if the boat has been on the trailer for a long time. Sometimes they stick.

Thanks for the tips.

It sounds like my wife and I have some coordination to work out!

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[Cal Coon]

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

I would never, and have never, run a jet ski that has been pulled from fresh water to "clear it out". It is fine and ready for the next ride just the way you took it out of the water.

When I use something in salt water I take it back to the house and immediately attach the garden hose and run the motor for about 5 minutes. Then I pressure wash it and the trailer.

Any boat that I am taking to a ramp I start it at the house for about 2 seconds just to make sure it is ready to go and the battery is up. As soon as it fires I shut it off.

When launching the jet ski I instruct whoever is driving it to start it in reverse. That way, if the nose has come off the front stop,and it often does due to the incline of the ramp, you don't start it and slam it back into the trailer. People forget that from the moment you start it it is always pumping water (until they suck up a dock line)

On the jet skis and the pontoon boats that I trailer I loosen the winch strap about a foot before completely backing down the ramp. That way, when I hit the brakes the boat will move back a foot and be in slightly deeper water. The tow vehicle will not have to go as far into the water and doing this also breaks any friction if the boat has been on the trailer for a long time. Sometimes they stick.

Good idea to pressure wash the back of the truck, and underneath as much as possible, (as well as the boat and trailer that you just used in salt water), or get it to a car wash that does the under carriage as well, asap. Although I agree that having two people that know what they're doing is always the best way to launch a water vessel as far as being efficient goes, but one guy can be pretty quick too if everything is thought out, and prepared in advance. The only difference in "time" between one guy, or two, is the time it takes one guy to park the tow vehicle and get back to the vessel at the dock, and that is only if the driver of the tow vehicle is not going out on the vessel that he/she just helped launch, which is usually not the case, so now the person in the vessel at the dock has to wait for the other person to come back from parking the tow vehicle anyways...!!

[chipj29]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

That's what I was referring to with the carbon ring "issue." I think the manual says no more than 90 seconds, which is easy to do for pre-riding, but I'm wondering about what it takes to "clear it out" afterward.

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It takes very little time to clear out the water. I run mine for less than 30 seconds after pulling it up the ramp. For reference I have an ‘04 Sea Doo PWC 4-stroke non-turbo