Installing Studs on a Snowmobile

Webbsatwinni · 11-30-2009, 03:32 PM

Has anyone tried trail grabbers? They are screws that go in the lugs of the track and not through it. The concept looks good, but I have never heard of anyone using them.

http://www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/tg_adv.htm

hazelnut · 11-30-2009, 05:04 PM

Thanks for the info on those. They look very interesting. I wonder how they hold up. It looks like a good alternative to studs.

WINNOCTURN · 11-30-2009, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webbsatwinni

Has anyone tried trail grabbers? They are screws that go in the lugs of the track and not through it. The concept looks good, but I have never heard of anyone using them.

http://www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/tg_adv.htm

I know several people that tried them some time ago. They did not stay in the lug that well and they were tearing the lug when the pulled out.

One of the after market track makers has a similar device "molded in" to the lugs. It looks pretty good.

woodynh · 11-30-2009, 07:10 PM

All good respones and information. I just want to add a couple more points because I have learned the hard way over the last few years and torn studs through tracks too many times.

1. If you are purely studding for trail use then use the shortest possible stud no more then 1/4" higher then the lug height. Two reasons for this. If you are trail riding you don't need that much penetration and if you get them too long they will bend and pull through the track. Also as I said the longer they are the more penetration into things like stumps in low snow conditions and when you throttle it the stud will hold and pull through the track.

2. With the deeper lug track of today like 1.25" the studs are longer and bend easier in the track and pull through the track. They now make nuts that extend taller in the track to prevent the bending of the rubber and more likely will bend the stud. Use the extended nuts for tracks with 1" and deeper lugs.

3. Already mentioned a couple times don't stud the outside belts and if you use a template do not use the very end holes near the outside of the middle of the track. They are most likely to pull through the track because there is little support on the track in that area.

4. Last don't over stud your track. As mentioned the new tracks have great traction compared to old tracks. Many people and companies will provide information saying more is better or you need this many for a certain horsepower. I usally only put in 96 studs on my trail sleds. I have never had a need for more for trail use.

I have run 10,000's of miles on under 1" tracks and never had a stud pull through. Then in the late 1990's and early 2000's I started using longer and more studs. Then I was not having a track last more then 2 or 3 years before it was junk from all the pull throughs. The last couple sleds I have done as mentioned above and have thousands of miles with no studs pulled through the track.

jmen24 · 12-01-2009, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webbsatwinni

Has anyone tried trail grabbers? They are screws that go in the lugs of the track and not through it. The concept looks good, but I have never heard of anyone using them.

http://www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/tg_adv.htm

I can tell you that I use an almost identical product for my ATV for ice fishing and winter camping for a little extra traction. They will pull out of the lugs and the ones that stay in will wear down to the neck of the screw by the end of the season (which is good and bad). Overall they work really well for low speed, high torque applications. They are installed in 589's, these tires have a very hard compound in them but not the same as a track.

Take it for what it is worth but I would think the high RPM's of the track would spit them out. This was always a problem with my two and four stroke HP quads. The tires would literally spin fast enough that it would throw the stud, again softer compound than a track.

Woodsy · 12-08-2009, 01:30 PM

My .02...

You didnt say what make/model sled.... call the dealer and see if you need tthe aformentioned tunnel protectors.... no need to hit a big bump and rip out your heat exchangers! OUCH!!

1. 1/4" longer than the track height is perfect.

2. Go buy the template and the drill tool.... it makes life ALOT easier!

3. Get the aluminum backing plates... the steel ones are very heavy.

4. Disconnect your drive belt, and tip your sled on its side so you have easy access to the track. If you have access to an impact wrench it will make tightening the studs quicker and easier.

Woodsy

jmen24 · 12-09-2009, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodsy

My .02...

You didnt say what make/model sled.... call the dealer and see if you need tthe aformentioned tunnel protectors.... no need to hit a big bump and rip out your heat exchangers! OUCH!!

1. 1/4" longer than the track height is perfect.

2. Go buy the template and the drill tool.... it makes life ALOT easier!

3. Get the aluminum backing plates... the steel ones are very heavy.

4. Disconnect your drive belt, and tip your sled on its side so you have easy access to the track. If you have access to an impact wrench it will make tightening the studs quicker and easier.

Woodsy

Just one more to add to the list.

4a. Clamp to fuel line and vent tube to prevent a big clean-up when you are done.

11-30-2009, 03:32 PM	#1
Webbsatwinni Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lebanon Ct and Rattlesnake Island Since 2007 Posts: 610 Thanks: 180 Thanked 137 Times in 72 Posts	Trail Grabbers Has anyone tried trail grabbers? They are screws that go in the lugs of the track and not through it. The concept looks good, but I have never heard of anyone using them. http://www.bergstromskegs.com/tg/tg_adv.htm

11-30-2009, 07:10 PM	#4
woodynh Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 45 Thanks: 3 Thanked 21 Times in 7 Posts	A couple more tips All good respones and information. I just want to add a couple more points because I have learned the hard way over the last few years and torn studs through tracks too many times. 1. If you are purely studding for trail use then use the shortest possible stud no more then 1/4" higher then the lug height. Two reasons for this. If you are trail riding you don't need that much penetration and if you get them too long they will bend and pull through the track. Also as I said the longer they are the more penetration into things like stumps in low snow conditions and when you throttle it the stud will hold and pull through the track. 2. With the deeper lug track of today like 1.25" the studs are longer and bend easier in the track and pull through the track. They now make nuts that extend taller in the track to prevent the bending of the rubber and more likely will bend the stud. Use the extended nuts for tracks with 1" and deeper lugs. 3. Already mentioned a couple times don't stud the outside belts and if you use a template do not use the very end holes near the outside of the middle of the track. They are most likely to pull through the track because there is little support on the track in that area. 4. Last don't over stud your track. As mentioned the new tracks have great traction compared to old tracks. Many people and companies will provide information saying more is better or you need this many for a certain horsepower. I usally only put in 96 studs on my trail sleds. I have never had a need for more for trail use. I have run 10,000's of miles on under 1" tracks and never had a stud pull through. Then in the late 1990's and early 2000's I started using longer and more studs. Then I was not having a track last more then 2 or 3 years before it was junk from all the pull throughs. The last couple sleds I have done as mentioned above and have thousands of miles with no studs pulled through the track.

12-08-2009, 01:30 PM	#6
Woodsy Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Weirs Beach Posts: 1,966 Thanks: 80 Thanked 980 Times in 440 Posts	My .02... You didnt say what make/model sled.... call the dealer and see if you need tthe aformentioned tunnel protectors.... no need to hit a big bump and rip out your heat exchangers! OUCH!! 1. 1/4" longer than the track height is perfect. 2. Go buy the template and the drill tool.... it makes life ALOT easier! 3. Get the aluminum backing plates... the steel ones are very heavy. 4. Disconnect your drive belt, and tip your sled on its side so you have easy access to the track. If you have access to an impact wrench it will make tightening the studs quicker and easier. Woodsy __________________ The only way to eliminate ignorant behavior is through education. You can't fix stupid.

11-30-2009, 05:04 PM	#2
hazelnut Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 1,348 Blog Entries: 3 Thanks: 508 Thanked 462 Times in 162 Posts	Thanks for the info on those. They look very interesting. I wonder how they hold up. It looks like a good alternative to studs.

The Following User Says Thank You to woodynh For This Useful Post:
WINNOCTURN (11-30-2009)

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WINNOCTURN (12-01-2009)