Pressure Washer does not start ?

[bigdog]

I took my pressure washer out of my shed to use today, but it wouldn't start?
Mfg: LiFan 5hp 3,000 Psi

Washer hasn't been started for about a year. In prep for storing Washer last summer, I started engine, then shut of the gas valve, so the gas would run out of the carb, and let it just stall-out. I then emptied the gas in the tank.
Covered areas around the tank with 'dryer' sheets to keep the mice away from eating wires and tubing.

Today, I filled with fresh gas, checked oil and attempted to start. Engine turns but fails to start. I then took spark plug out, cleaned, re-gapped and installed. Attempted to start again, but made no difference !

I then removed spark plug and shot some starting fluid spray directly into the cylinder. This time, when I tried to start, it attempted to start for about 5 seconds, then stalled. I suspect it was just burning the 'starter' spray in the cylinder. Did this routine twice, and called it a day. Next step will be to remove Carb and clean.

What are Forum thoughts, what is the issue and remedies ?

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I took my pressure washer out of my shed to use today, but it wouldn't start?
Mfg: LiFan 5hp 3,000 Psi

Washer hasn't been started for about a year. In prep for storing Washer last summer, I started engine, then shut of the gas valve, so the gas would run out of the carb, and let it just stall-out. I then emptied the gas in the tank.
Covered areas around the tank with 'dryer' sheets to keep the mice away from eating wires and tubing.

Today, I filled with fresh gas, checked oil and attempted to start. Engine turns but fails to start. I then took spark plug out, cleaned, re-gapped and installed. Attempted to start again, but made no difference !

I then removed spark plug and shot some starting fluid spray directly into the cylinder. This time, when I tried to start, it attempted to start for about 5 seconds, then stalled. I suspect it was just burning the 'starter' spray in the cylinder. Did this routine twice, and called it a day. Next step will be to remove Carb and clean.

What are Forum thoughts, what is the issue and remedies ?

Spray your starting fluid directly into the air intake on the carburetor instead... That works better than spraying directly in the cylinder then screwing in spark plug, etc, etc...

Dan

[DEJ]

Turn the gas valve back on.

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by DEJ

Turn the gas valve back on.

That works too!! LOL!!

[jbolty]

see if gas is flowing out of the tank. I drained my lawnmower last year but even so the screen inside the tank had a sort of jelly layer that had built up and was blocking.

[John Mercier]

Carb may have some varnish from evaporated residue causing the float/needle mechanism to stick. Removing the carb and cleaning it should do the trick.

[thinkxingu]

When this happened to me with an old (gifted) mower, I threw some Seafoam into the little fuel I had in the tank and enough starter fluid into the air intake to force the fresh/treated fuel through. It was enough to unseat what I assumed was a stuck carb needle, which is essentially what pulling the carb and cleaning it would do...only with a lot less work.

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[bigdog]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Carb may have some varnish from evaporated residue causing the float/needle mechanism to stick. Removing the carb and cleaning it should do the trick.

John.... come to think of it, before I added new fuel I looked in the tank and did see varnish type residue on walls of the tank.Will remove the carb, and maybe soak in a bath of cleaner solvent such as Seafoam as thinkxingu recommended.

Will report back with results.....

[thinkxingu]

The other thing you could do is look underneath the carb and see if there's a bolt in the bottom. My old Craftsman snowblower had a main needle that was removable that I could spray carb cleaner into rather than pull it off.

The potential issue with pulling the carb off/open is, of course, the gaskets potentially needing replacement from ethanol swell/dryness.

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[John Mercier]

Bolt in the bottom should lead to the bowl, so you can drain it at the end of season, but it shouldn't lead to the needle seating.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Bolt in the bottom should lead to the bowl, so you can drain it at the end of season, but it shouldn't lead to the needle seating.

Yup, mistaken wording—it did allow carb cleaner to be sprayed in, though.

Thanks for the correction!

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[swnoel]

This is why I only use non ethanol gas in my small engines and boat. It's worth the extra I pay.

[John Mercier]

Ethanol is actually a solvent.

The bolt in the bowl could be used to diagnose the problem.
If he is careful enough not to spill gas all over the motor, removing the bolt and slowly opening the petcock... if gasoline is flowing into the bowl... then it isn't the needle varnished against its seat.

[8gv]

Sometimes one can just get lucky...

Try whacking the side of the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver.

A slightly stuck float needle may be freed by the impact... sometimes.

[root1]

Convert the engine to run on propane.
You'll loose maybe 10% power. But, all the headaches of long-term storage are gone!

[steve-on-mark]

If there's no fuel in the bowl, remove the float cover completely and make sure the float can move up and down freely. If it can, I would check the hole in the seat that fuel should run through. I've seen a lot of these clog up with junk. Torch tip cleaners work great for this, but a long pin or needle will work ok as long as the diameter is small enough. Hope this helps!

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[KennyFromBoston]

Hi,
I've found using the (stripped) wire from the wire tie used on bread closures works great. The wire is thin enough to pass though the carb bolt. Just be careful when dealing with the gaskets. Good luck !

[John Mercier]

Originally Posted by 8gv

Sometimes one can just get lucky...

Try whacking the side of the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver.

A slightly stuck float needle may be freed by the impact... sometimes.

In the LiFan, I believe there is a spring that surrounds the needle applying a small amount of pressure to act against the float.

[ITD]

Buy a can of carb cleaner. Remove the bowl, and spray all the ports you can find. Check the gas in the tank. If it is gummed up, you need to remove it and clean the tank. It's all pretty easy as long as you have some mechanical inclination and can put stuff back together properly.

[bigdog]

Just wanted to circle back with results after several tests.....

I sprayed carb cleaner directly into the air intake on the carburetor and again
attempted to start but only ran for a few seconds.

Removed bolt in the bowl and gasoline found that gas was flowing into the bowl.

Again sprayed carb cleaner directly into spark-plug cylinder then screwing in spark plug. Attempted to start, but engine ran for only a few seconds.

Removed air filter to expose Carb, exposing the float, which appears to be working fine, not sticking, and moving up & down as it should.

I then sprayed all the ports in the carb I could reach w/o actually removing the carb.you can find. Attempted to start, but engine ran for only a few seconds.

Next step will be to actually remove the carb, and put the entire carb in a can filled with SeaFoam and let sit overnight, then use a small wire to clean every hole in the carb, and maybe remove the jets.

Would like to hear additional feedback from Forum.

[John Mercier]

Does your owner's operation manual have a clause like this?

''NOTE: Periodically on the initial start-‐‐up or after the unit has been stored for a
long period of time, the float for your “Low Oil Shutdown” system will stick to the
bottom of the oil pan. Locate the two (2) wires to the Low Oil Sensor Diode (figure
“Low Oil Sensor Diode” to the right) located on the side of the engine block. Unplug
these wires and, only after ensuring the engine is full of oil, start the engine and
allow to run until warm (normally 20 minutes, as this will heat the oil and release
the float on the Low Oil Shutdown System). Then re-‐‐plug the wires to the terminals
on the Low Oil Shutdown Sending Unit.''

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Does your owner's operation manual have a clause like this?

''NOTE: Periodically on the initial start-‐‐up or after the unit has been stored for a
long period of time, the float for your “Low Oil Shutdown” system will stick to the
bottom of the oil pan. Locate the two (2) wires to the Low Oil Sensor Diode (figure
“Low Oil Sensor Diode” to the right) located on the side of the engine block. Unplug
these wires and, only after ensuring the engine is full of oil, start the engine and
allow to run until warm (normally 20 minutes, as this will heat the oil and release
the float on the Low Oil Shutdown System). Then re-‐‐plug the wires to the terminals
on the Low Oil Shutdown Sending Unit.''

John....Great minds think alike !
I was thinking about the issue over-nite, and a light bulb popped and had the same thought "Unplug the low-oil sensor wires, then try to start'.
This may actually be the problem ???? Will try this solution and report back.
BTW, I don't have an Owner's Manual' with this unit, I bought a floor display and the store never provided.
Thanks again John M. !

[John Mercier]

There should be one online... if you google the model number.
This is how I find them for people that purchase items from us but have placed their manuals someplace and can no longer find them.

The carbs on these units tend to be limited throttle throw away that are usually so cheap to purchase new that no one bothers to do much more than the basics.

You can end up spending $50 in time and materials... not to mention travel costs... to fix something that can be replaced for $20.

[ITD]

It could be as simple as you need to top up the oil. Unplugging that sensor may not work if that is the problem.

[SteveO123]

Wouldn’t the Low Oil sensor cut out the ignition/coil? OP can run for a few seconds when bypassing the carb. Sounds to me like a fuel/carb problem…I’d get on Amazon and order that $15 throw away carb!

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Does your owner's operation manual have a clause like this?

''NOTE: Periodically on the initial start-‐‐up or after the unit has been stored for a
long period of time, the float for your “Low Oil Shutdown” system will stick to the
bottom of the oil pan. Locate the two (2) wires to the Low Oil Sensor Diode (figure
“Low Oil Sensor Diode” to the right) located on the side of the engine block. Unplug
these wires and, only after ensuring the engine is full of oil, start the engine and
allow to run until warm (normally 20 minutes, as this will heat the oil and release
the float on the Low Oil Shutdown System). Then re-‐‐plug the wires to the terminals
on the Low Oil Shutdown Sending Unit.''

John,

Disconnected the Low Oil Sensor Diode, and attempted to start, but no success. Engine didn't have any indication to start.
I know it's getting spark, because in previous attempts, after shooting starter spray into plug cylinder and in-take of carb, it did start for a few seconds before dying.

Only thing I haven't done yet, is remove entire Carb and soak in carb cleaner and inspects all ports and jets. More to come......

[John Mercier]

Pretty sure that your getting air and spark. Float bowl has fresh gas, so that would be the next step.

Though I do wonder if something got into the gas and is blocking the jet. If it is just ''gum'' then the soak should solve the problem.

[thinkxingu]

I'm no mechanic, but if it's running with an alternative fuel (starter fluid), then it's a fuel problem. Pull and clean the carb or replace it.

Alternatively, hook up a consistent source of starter fluid. That'll keep it running...until something bad happens!

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[SailinAway]

Seafoam works miracles. I couldn't believe it when my 19-year-old Craftsman mower started on the first pull this year with the help of Seafoam in the gas . . . last year's gas! The manufacturer says you can use any quantity of Seafoam, even 100% straight Seafoam in the tank. I've also heard that it's best to not run a machine dry at the end of the season, but rather leave gas with Seafoam in the tank so the lines don't dry out (referring to a string trimmer but maybe it applies to all gas engines?).

[John Mercier]

Lifan suggests doing what he did when storing it for a long period of time.

[XCR-700]

This problem plagues me too often in recent years and no amount of fuel stabilizer or effort of draining gas/running engine out of fuel seems to help.

In most cases when it happens to me, I must pull the carb, and spray clean it with Gumout, and use fine wire welding torch cleaners to clear the various passages.

In a few cases I have found new carbs on sale on eBay or Amazon or elsewhere for really short money. Got a brand new carb for a Craftsman snowthrower for $16, so I just stuck the old one on the shelf and avoided all the labor and the $18 rebuild kit! Yes the rebuild kit was more than the NEW carb,,,

Well thats my experience.

Best of luck.

[8gv]

I had a chance conversation with a guy at a gas station the other day.

He said he runs street gas in his power equipment all season.

At the end of the season he syphons out what is in the tanks and pours in and runs the non ethanol two 50:1 stroke premix that comes in a can from Lowes.

He told me he never had an issue since he started doing that.

Some run the canned non ethanol from Lowes all season.

That can get pricey if you use a lot of gas.

I think I calculated $16/gallon.

[Charlie T]

Originally Posted by 8gv

I had a chance conversation with a guy at a gas station the other day.

He said he runs street gas in his power equipment all season.

At the end of the season he syphons out what is in the tanks and pours in and runs the non ethanol two 50:1 stroke premix that comes in a can from Lowes.

He told me he never had an issue since he started doing that.

Some run the canned non ethanol from Lowes all season.

That can get pricey if you use a lot of gas.

I think I calculated $16/gallon.

The former Fullers Gas station on Rt 25 has Non Ethanol gas at their pumps. The last time I purchased it, which was probably last fall it was $3.99 a gal vs under $3 for standard gas. I get a 5 gal jug and put some stabil in it to run all my small engines. Problem solved.

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by 8gv

I had a chance conversation with a guy at a gas station the other day.

He said he runs street gas in his power equipment all season.

At the end of the season he syphons out what is in the tanks and pours in and runs the non ethanol two 50:1 stroke premix that comes in a can from Lowes.

He told me he never had an issue since he started doing that.

Some run the canned non ethanol from Lowes all season.

That can get pricey if you use a lot of gas.

I think I calculated $16/gallon.

Interesting situation where we must pay more for fuel that has less additives. If anything is should be less costly,,,

You can thank the misguided and misinformed green effort. Alcohol is not better and NOT cleaner, its one of the biggest environmental lies out there. Its just welfare for big corporate farm conglomerates.

[John Mercier]

Once again.
Ethanol is a solvent.
It dissolves varnish.

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Once again.
Ethanol is a solvent.
It dissolves varnish.

And as a solvent it dissolves other things and the dissolved varnish and other items gum up carburetors. Thats why people have these problems.

Alcohol does not fix fuel system problems, it creates them!

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Once again.
Ethanol is a solvent.
It dissolves varnish.

Ethanol is alcohol. It attracts moisture and causes phase separation in fuel and is the main reason while fuel goes bad in a much shorter time span than non ethanol laced fuel. If left untreated breakdown begins in three weeks….when breakdown occurs eventual varnishing or gumming up of components happens.

Dan

[John Mercier]

Lifan is very aware of the situation on fuel.
It provides specific storage for that reason.

Since the carb is run empty... it and the fuel line to the petcock does not come in contact with fuel during the storage phase.

They look for people that use ''internet advise'' outside of their prescribed storage so that they do not have to cover the warranty.
It has been a godsend for them to not have to cover problems created in this manner.

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by ishoot308

Ethanol is alcohol. It attracts moisture and causes phase separation in fuel and is the main reason while fuel goes bad in a much shorter time span than non ethanol laced fuel. If left untreated breakdown begins in three weeks….when breakdown occurs eventual varnishing or gumming up of components happens.

Dan

Clearly that is part of the problem, but not all of it,,,

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Lifan is very aware of the situation on fuel.
It provides specific storage for that reason.

Since the carb is run empty... it and the fuel line to the petcock does not come in contact with fuel during the storage phase.

They look for people that use ''internet advise'' outside of their prescribed storage so that they do not have to cover the warranty.
It has been a godsend for them to not have to cover problems created in this manner.

And here is the problem, simply performing a storage process will not fix the problem.

The solution another posted advised is actually a better approach. By flushing the engine with "proper" gasoline, you will accomplish more than just following any manufacturers guidance but doing so while sticking to gas/alcohol mix as your fuel.

The phase separation does not start at x weeks, it actually stars almost immediately, and by week x it is clearly visible.

Combine the fuel deterioration with the impact of the alcohol solvent on fuel system components and you have a process where the carb is slowly and constantly being exposed to particles and gummy material and trying to fight that. If you use the motor all year long you will greatly delay the clogged carb problem, but likely not completely avoid it. And when you then store the motor off-season, the particles and gummy material sit in the tiny passages and continue to wreak havoc. Sometimes you will start the motor the next year and it may run poorly for a while and then seem to clear up, only to be worse the next season as the cumulative effect of buildup takes place in the carb. In other years this happens in one season.

Flushing the engine with non-alcohol and premix helps as the oil keeps the particles and gummy material from drying out and totally clogging the passages. Its not a 100% solution, as even with non alcohol gas this process happens, its just much slower.

Bottom line, alcohol gas is not good, and just draining the gas and running your motor dry of fuel will not assure you of no clogged carb problems.

Not sure there is an actual fix, just degrees of worse or better.

[John Mercier]

Lifan has been adjusting its parts.

Older models of Lifan suggest either running the tank empty or draining all gas should ethanol blend be used. This did not have a petcock

The newer models do not suggest this... and the tech is to look for ''ethanol etch'' within the float bowl to determine warranty certification.
''Ethanol etch'' is the result of not shutting off the petcock and running the carb dry as recommended. Raw gas will do the same thing...

All the manufacturers have been getting ready for more ethanol in the motors since President Trump first tried to change to E15 on summer blend by EO several years ago.

[swnoel]

For those who are cheap and have extra time on their hands, put your pump gas in a container , add water to the mix and shake it up, allow the water and real gas to separate, the water and alcohol mixes and you can drain off the that mix with the remaining gas non ethanol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opPZD8-2fLk

[ITD]

Fullers non-ethanol was posted at $5.99 today. I rarely have issues with my engines, when I do I pull the carb, disassemble clean with carb cleaner and reassemble. The motors start right up and usually need a small adjustment if it has one then is good to go.

I just use pump gas with a preservative added at the end of the season.

[8gv]

While we are enjoying this fuel fueled discussion, let me make some carb cleaning suggestions.

I use PineSol.

Soaking my motorcycle carb parts in PinSol overnight left them very clean.

Wear gloves though!

If you need to ream out some tiny passages buy a set of electric guitar strings.

They can fit anywhere.

[dpg]

Agree with comment about not running an engine dry for storage I haven't done this for years and years. For years now been running out gas and re-filling with the "storage fuel" you can buy in any hardware store, HD, etc. Start your engine back up run it 5 minutes and go ahead and store your machines for the season. Not much help for an engine already not starting though.

[codeman671]

I always run my small engines dry for long term storage, and they always fire right back up when I refill and restart.

For smaller items like backpack blowers and trimmers (the ones I haven't already swapped out for electric) I only use canned fuel. Its a bit more, but I save by not dealing with mechanical issues or loss of hair from me pulling it out.

[jbolty]

Originally Posted by 8gv

While we are enjoying this fuel fueled discussion, let me make some carb cleaning suggestions.

I use PineSol.

Soaking my motorcycle carb parts in PinSol overnight left them very clean.

Wear gloves though!

If you need to ream out some tiny passages buy a set of electric guitar strings.

They can fit anywhere.

welding tip cleaners

https://www.amazon.com/Herain-Carbur...dp/B09B3T85BM/

[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by codeman671

I always run my small engines dry for long term storage, and they always fire right back up when I refill and restart.

For smaller items like backpack blowers and trimmers (the ones I haven't already swapped out for electric) I only use canned fuel. Its a bit more, but I save by not dealing with mechanical issues or loss of hair from me pulling it out.

I use the canned gas in my backpack blower, chain saw, and gas trimmer. Snowblower and lawnmower get gas from the gas station, treated with Sta-bil. I do use Seafoam at the start of each season. No problems on starting up at the start of the respective seasons.

Dave

[DickR]

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

I use the canned gas in my backpack blower, chain saw, and gas trimmer. Snowblower and lawnmower get gas from the gas station, treated with Sta-bil. I do use Seafoam at the start of each season. No problems on starting up at the start of the respective seasons.

Dave

Is there any significant difference between "canned gas" (from a hardware store) and ethanol-free gas (from a gas station offering it)? The latter, while maybe a buck a gallon more than gas laced with ethanol (to please the corn lobby), it still is cheaper than canned gas.

[ITD]

Originally Posted by DickR

Is there any significant difference between "canned gas" (from a hardware store) and ethanol-free gas (from a gas station offering it)? The latter, while maybe a buck a gallon more than gas laced with ethanol (to please the corn lobby), it still is cheaper than canned gas.

I doubt it. That canned gas is expensive.

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by XCR-700

This problem plagues me too often in recent years and no amount of fuel stabilizer or effort of draining gas/running engine out of fuel seems to help.

In most cases when it happens to me, I must pull the carb, and spray clean it with Gumout, and use fine wire welding torch cleaners to clear the various passages.

In a few cases I have found new carbs on sale on eBay or Amazon or elsewhere for really short money. Got a brand new carb for a Craftsman snowthrower for $16, so I just stuck the old one on the shelf and avoided all the labor and the $18 rebuild kit! Yes the rebuild kit was more than the NEW carb,,,

Well thats my experience.

Best of luck.

Went on AMAZON and bought a new carb, unfortunately it did not fit and align with the mounting bolts. Carb is a Ruixing 127 Carb - HUAYI Made in Japan.
There are dozens of this brans and mfg, and seems impossible to find the exact duplicate.

Going to pull carb today, and do a through cleaning with Seafoam, and probably leave soaking overnight.

Suggestions?

[John Mercier]

Originally Posted by DickR

Is there any significant difference between "canned gas" (from a hardware store) and ethanol-free gas (from a gas station offering it)? The latter, while maybe a buck a gallon more than gas laced with ethanol (to please the corn lobby), it still is cheaper than canned gas.

Canned gas is engineered to reduce aromatics.

[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by DickR

Is there any significant difference between "canned gas" (from a hardware store) and ethanol-free gas (from a gas station offering it)? The latter, while maybe a buck a gallon more than gas laced with ethanol (to please the corn lobby), it still is cheaper than canned gas.

The canned gas I'm talking about and using is 40:1 and 50:1 gas pre-mix.

I guess I could drive up to Ossipee or wherever, but I can get the pre-mix here in Alton or at Lowes if I happen to be there.

Dave

[John Mercier]

That is what he was talking about.
You can get TruFuel in a premix or a 4-cycle version.

The manufacturer refines the raw gas further to remove the aromatics that are the major culprit behind tank/line/gasket deterioration.

[8gv]

Originally Posted by bigdog

Went on AMAZON and bought a new carb, unfortunately it did not fit and align with the mounting bolts. Carb is a Ruixing 127 Carb - HUAYI Made in Japan.
There are dozens of this brans and mfg, and seems impossible to find the exact duplicate.

Going to pull carb today, and do a through cleaning with Seafoam, and probably leave soaking overnight.

Suggestions?

PineSol.

Wear gloves.

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by 8gv

PineSol.

Wear gloves.

Who knew Pine-Sol was a cleaner an solvent !

[John Mercier]

It has alcohol in it.

[ITD]

I would go to the auto or hardware store and by carb cleaner. Remove the mixture screws if it has them and spray through all the jets. Don't use a screwdriver to reinstall them as you will wreck them and the motor will never run correctly. The carb will need to be adjusted when you get it running but it should be nice and clean.

Screw the adjustment screws in with your finger just until they bottom out, don't tighten. Then back out 2 turns.

Make sure all the gaskets are good, and don't forget to squirt carb cleaner through the float valve.


If you want a new carb or a rebuild kit, call these guys.

https://www.bills-place.net/

[John Mercier]

I doubt the Lifan has a rebuild kit... it is a throwaway carb.

[bigdog]

I could not find a replacement carb. There were no serial# or identification marks on the carb. I also cannot find and owner's manual online which would help in identifying the carb for this model. On this tack, I'm dead in the water.

That said, yesterday, I removed the carb, removed all jets, bowl, etc and gave all a thorough cleaning with Seafoam. I also sprayed all ports and holes etc with carb cleaner. Used almost a can to clean.

Filled with fresh gas and gave it a few pulls on the starter rope, and it began to start, on about 5 pull it started and ran fine for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounds like it was starved for gas. Ab 'YES' the gas valve was in the 'ON' position.

I couldn't restart after that. At my wits end....

Thoughts ?

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I could not find a replacement carb. There were no serial# or identification marks on the carb. I also cannot find and owner's manual online which would help in identifying the carb for this model. On this tack, I'm dead in the water.

That said, yesterday, I removed the carb, removed all jets, bowl, etc and gave all a thorough cleaning with Seafoam. I also sprayed all ports and holes etc with carb cleaner. Used almost a can to clean.

Filled with fresh gas and gave it a few pulls on the starter rope, and it began to start, on about 5 pull it started and ran fine for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounds like it was starved for gas. Ab 'YES' the gas valve was in the 'ON' position.

I couldn't restart after that. At my wits end....

Thoughts ?

Why don’t you just bring it to a small engine repair shop? You probably would have saved money at this point…

Dan

[John Mercier]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I could not find a replacement carb. There were no serial# or identification marks on the carb. I also cannot find and owner's manual online which would help in identifying the carb for this model. On this tack, I'm dead in the water.

That said, yesterday, I removed the carb, removed all jets, bowl, etc and gave all a thorough cleaning with Seafoam. I also sprayed all ports and holes etc with carb cleaner. Used almost a can to clean.

Filled with fresh gas and gave it a few pulls on the starter rope, and it began to start, on about 5 pull it started and ran fine for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounds like it was starved for gas. Ab 'YES' the gas valve was in the 'ON' position.

I couldn't restart after that. At my wits end....

Thoughts ?

Model and Serial #?

I found the low oil kill solenoid information in an owner's manual for Lifan.... not stating I can find the exact one for your model... or a parts schematic, but I can try.

[ITD]

Try it again. If it starts let it run, if it start stalling add some choke. If that keeps it running then the mixture adjustment screws need to be adjusted. I'm suspecting too rich. If it stalls and you can't restart, pull the plug and look at it. Is it dry or wet? Then check for a spark. It should spark on every revolution. If no spark then you need to look for reason. Obviously make sure the oil is full before trying any of this.

[ApS]

Nobody's mentioned checking for a clogged fuel line. Like an internally clogged brake line, it does.happen.

Is the gas cap vent working? Try starting with the cap loosened one turn.

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by ApS

Nobody's mentioned checking for a clogged fuel line. Like an internally clogged brake line, it does.happen.

Is the gas cap vent working? Try starting with the cap loosened one turn.

Got engine stared today, and it ran for about 3-4 minutes, then died.
Only think I did different was replace a 2 inch fuel line from on/off valve to Carb
Replaced on advice from ApS about a possible 'clogged' fuel line, made sense to me.

There is another fuel line from other side of on/off valve to fuel tank, will replace that next....

If all else fails will put engine out of it's misery with my 12 gauge !

[John Mercier]

You could also check the valve.
If a line running directly to the carb works, the valve has residue in it.

[ITD]

Check the fuel filter. There might be one in the tank. I thought you had confirmed there was fuel running out of the fuel line into the carb.

Let's get back to basics. Change the fuel filter. If you can't find a fuel filter, drain the tank completely. Buy another can of Carb clearer, spray through the fuel line connector into the tank, let that drain out from the filler cap. Then spray about a 1/4 cup carb cleaner into the tank, shake it up, and let that drain out through the filler cap. Repeat until you get no debris from the tank. The spray more into tank and let it run out of the tank through the fuel line connector. It should flow freely and be clean. If not keep cleaning per above.

Next pull the bowl off the carb, look for debris in the bowl. If there is any there, you need to clean the whole carb out again.

You need to be meticulous, and assure the fuel system is clean.

[secondcurve]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I took my pressure washer out of my shed to use today, but it wouldn't start?
Mfg: LiFan 5hp 3,000 Psi

Washer hasn't been started for about a year. In prep for storing Washer last summer, I started engine, then shut of the gas valve, so the gas would run out of the carb, and let it just stall-out. I then emptied the gas in the tank.
Covered areas around the tank with 'dryer' sheets to keep the mice away from eating wires and tubing.

Today, I filled with fresh gas, checked oil and attempted to start. Engine turns but fails to start. I then took spark plug out, cleaned, re-gapped and installed. Attempted to start again, but made no difference !

I then removed spark plug and shot some starting fluid spray directly into the cylinder. This time, when I tried to start, it attempted to start for about 5 seconds, then stalled. I suspect it was just burning the 'starter' spray in the cylinder. Did this routine twice, and called it a day. Next step will be to remove Carb and clean.

What are Forum thoughts, what is the issue and remedies ?

Do yourself a favor and switch to an electric power washer. I made the change this year and it has been wonderful. Connect the hose, turn the water on and press the button. You loose a bit of power but for most applications it doesn’t make a difference. Gas power washers can be incredibly temperamental as you have discovered. I think I paid $400.00 for the top of the line model.

[VitaBene]

Originally Posted by secondcurve

Do yourself a favor and switch to an electric power washer. I made the change this year and it has been wonderful. Connect the hose, turn the water on and press the button. You loose a bit of power but for most applications it doesn’t make a difference. Gas power washers can be incredibly temperamental as you have discovered. I think I paid $400.00 for the top of the line model.

Yes, we went to using Greenworks commercial for tools that are used infrequently.

Draining a carb with ethanol 10 or 15% generally does not help as the drying agent attacks the seals. 15 years ago, you could put a chain saw up for a couple of years, put fresh gas in and go.

[John Mercier]

It is the aromatics, not the ethanol that attacks the seals.

It is why TruFuel is not raw gasoline... but engineered by removing most of the aromatics.

[DickR]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

It is the aromatics, not the ethanol that attacks the seals.

It is why TruFuel is not raw gasoline... but engineered by removing most of the aromatics.

I found this description of what's in TruFuel: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...rufuel.480480/

Toluene, xylene, and ethylbenene are aromatic hydrocarbons. The Tru Fuel website does say that benzene, the simplest of the aromatics, is not present. What is your source of info that says TF is free of aromatics?

[John Mercier]

Not free of... reduced as a percentage of the total.

Completely removing them is not possible.

Even ''white gas'', which we also have sitting on our shelve, has some aromatics in it.

[bigdog]

I’ve resolved the issue with starting and stopping the PW.
Long story short, the gas tank was full of CRUD, and lots of it !

Originally, I thought it was bad gas, but drained all of it and added fresh gas, but made no difference, it was definitely the tank.

I removed the tank completely, rinsed with apple cider vinegar, just to eliminate any gas, then drained. I then took about 2 handfuls of gravel into the tank, and shook the hell out of the tank for a couple minutes. Then emptied the gravel, rinsed out with apple vinegar again, and drained. WOW, you wouldn’t have believed the crud, rust and crap that came out of the bottom and sides of tank.

I then added fresh vinegar and left in tank for a few hours, then drained one last time. The inside of the tank is 100% better now, and actually see shiny metal, but not entirely. Flushed out all gas lines with carb cleaner.

Reconnected gas tank, and PW started right away, and stayed running. OMG has this been a learning experience !

This ethanol gas is really bad stuff, think of all the engine issues, this type gas has caused which can be eliminated by using Non-E gas. Seriously, it should be outlawed.

Hope this Thread has helped other folks…….

[ITD]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I’ve resolved the issue with starting and stopping the PW.
Long story short, the gas tank was full of CRUD, and lots of it !

Originally, I thought it was bad gas, but drained all of it and added fresh gas, but made no difference, it was definitely the tank.

I removed the tank completely, rinsed with apple cider vinegar, just to eliminate any gas, then drained. I then took about 2 handfuls of gravel into the tank, and shook the hell out of the tank for a couple minutes. Then emptied the gravel, rinsed out with apple vinegar again, and drained. WOW, you wouldn’t have believed the crud, rust and crap that came out of the bottom and sides of tank.

I then added fresh vinegar and left in tank for a few hours, then drained one last time. The inside of the tank is 100% better now, and actually see shiny metal, but not entirely. Flushed out all gas lines with carb cleaner.

Reconnected gas tank, and PW started right away, and stayed running. OMG has this been a learning experience !

This ethanol gas is really bad stuff, think of all the engine issues, this type gas has caused which can be eliminated by using Non-E gas. Seriously, it should be outlawed.

Hope this Thread has helped other folks…….

You don't get gravel from ethanol gas. You have a hater, or a little kid who thought it was a good idea to put gravel in the gas tank.

Glad you got it fixed. Just note for future reference, start with the gas tank, it usually results in a much quicker resolution. And finally, drain that gas out and toss it in your car before it goes bad. Do this at the end of the season, saves a lot of aggravation.

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by ITD

You don't get gravel from ethanol gas. You have a hater, or a little kid who thought it was a good idea to put gravel in the gas tank.

Glad you got it fixed. Just note for future reference, start with the gas tank, it usually results in a much quicker resolution. And finally, drain that gas out and toss it in your car before it goes bad. Do this at the end of the season, saves a lot of aggravation.

I think he put the gravel in the tank to clean it….

Dan

[John Mercier]

Ethanol will not create anything that he saw though.

Tanks have had that problem long before ethanol was introduced.

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by bigdog

I’ve resolved the issue with starting and stopping the PW.
Long story short, the gas tank was full of CRUD, and lots of it !

Originally, I thought it was bad gas, but drained all of it and added fresh gas, but made no difference, it was definitely the tank.

I removed the tank completely, rinsed with apple cider vinegar, just to eliminate any gas, then drained. I then took about 2 handfuls of gravel into the tank, and shook the hell out of the tank for a couple minutes. Then emptied the gravel, rinsed out with apple vinegar again, and drained. WOW, you wouldn’t have believed the crud, rust and crap that came out of the bottom and sides of tank.

I then added fresh vinegar and left in tank for a few hours, then drained one last time. The inside of the tank is 100% better now, and actually see shiny metal, but not entirely. Flushed out all gas lines with carb cleaner.

Reconnected gas tank, and PW started right away, and stayed running. OMG has this been a learning experience !

This ethanol gas is really bad stuff, think of all the engine issues, this type gas has caused which can be eliminated by using Non-E gas. Seriously, it should be outlawed.

Hope this Thread has helped other folks…….

So if I understand it correctly, you have a pressure washer with a metal gas tank that was full of some substance that clogging the fuel system end to end, and you were able to clean it out with Apple Cider Vinegar and rocks!

Well I have to admit thats a fix I have never heard of before and that will live in infamy! Thats like something right out of MacGyver (the original, no idea about the new one never seen it,,,)

As for the substance, were able to ID it or its origin???

Likely it is not from alcohol in the gas impacting your pressure washer fuel system, as if you have a metal fuel tank then I suspect it came from outside. And if thats the case you should look carefully at your gas jug to see if it is deteriorating and or if it got contaminated from some other source. But in either case you dont want to go through this again so make sure your fuel source is clean before refueling the pressure washer!

ATB

[ITD]

Originally Posted by ishoot308

I think he put the gravel in the tank to clean it….

Dan

Ah, I missed that part. Sounds like an older pressure washer if it has a metal tank. Glad he got it running.

[bigdog]

Originally Posted by XCR-700

So if I understand it correctly, you have a pressure washer with a metal gas tank that was full of some substance that clogging the fuel system end to end, and you were able to clean it out with Apple Cider Vinegar and rocks!

Well I have to admit thats a fix I have never heard of before and that will live in infamy! Thats like something right out of MacGyver (the original, no idea about the new one never seen it,,,)

As for the substance, were able to ID it or its origin???

Likely it is not from alcohol in the gas impacting your pressure washer fuel system, as if you have a metal fuel tank then I suspect it came from outside. And if thats the case you should look carefully at your gas jug to see if it is deteriorating and or if it got contaminated from some other source. But in either case you dont want to go through this again so make sure your fuel source is clean before refueling the pressure washer!

ATB

Yes, the gravel was used yo clean the inside of the tank. I went on YouTube 'how to clean inside of a metal gas tank', and found several videos explaining this fix. I was surprised myself but it made sense, and the results were amazing. Videos did caution NOT using ball-bearings because metal again metal, well KABOOM !

On a last note, all my gas containers are all plastic, so that would not be the cause.

Check this article: https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools...es-against-it/

Article states::
"A third issue is that ethanol can loosen debris that normally collects in the corners of the fuel tank and can lead to clogged fuel systems."

Hope this helps......

[John Mercier]

The rust is from water.
When you place alcohol - like drygas - into a tank it surrounds the water with a small shell of alcohol.

You get rust/flaking in a metal tank from humidity from the air condensing on a raw metal.

It has happened for decades before ethanol was added to gasoline, and one of the reasons that plastic tanks are now used.